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<guide guidestars="*" pagesize="300"> <header id="143" name="Elderslie" walk="5-20 min" sun="Mixed" rock="Sandstone" intro="The bouldering at Elderslie is quite good, on sandstone boulders situated amongst dry woodland. <br/>This page describes the bouldering on public land at Heathy Gulley Reserve.<br/>" access="To get there from Hobart: drive up the Midlands Highway towards Brighton. Take the left hand road just before Brighton (Elderslie Road). Follow this road for 15 minutes or so before reaching Elderslie (not much more than a few farms and a golf club). Take a right a few kilometres out of Elderslie (Clifton Vale Road) and follow this dirt road for about 5 kilometres before reaching a Y intersection; take the right road (to Dysart), you will go up a rise and then the road will go down again, at the bottom of this hill on the left is the fire trail about 1 kilometre from the intersection. <br/><br/>To access public boulders, continue on the road past the Roadside boulder for another couple of hundred metres, around the corner. Park at a large pull-out on the left opposite a gate. The gully is to the East." acknowledgement="" history="It was originally discovered by Mike Berry and developed by Stu Bowling & friends in early 2001. The area got some more life in 2006 with the discovery of the Gully by Jon Nermut and Dave Humphries, and then later the Arch and the Terrace." camping="" autonumber="false"/> <text id="172" class="heading2">Elderslie land tenure</text> <image id="171" width="1000" height="707" src="Elderslie land tenure.jpg"/> <gps id="140"> <point code="ELB100" description="The Gully carpark" easting="507160" northing="5287060" height="0" zone="55G" latitude="-42.56883" longitude="147.08724" pid="0"/> <point code="ELB120" description="Butterflies Boulder" easting="507750" northing="5286930" height="0" zone="55G" latitude="-42.57000" longitude="147.09443" pid="1"/> <point easting="507835" code="ELB140" description="Elderslie Arch" northing="5286875" height="0" zone="55G" latitude="-42.57049" longitude="147.09546" pid="2"/> </gps> <text class="heading2" new="false" number="null." id="85">The Gully</text> <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="86">The Gully has much more potential to develop. Unlike most of Elderslie, the boulders are on Crown land, so access shouldn't be as much of an issue. There is a large amount of wildlife in the gully, including snakes and wallabies, so dogs probably aren't a good idea. To get there, continue on the road past the Roadside boulder for another couple of hundred metres, around the corner. Park at a large pull-out on the left. Go through the gate on the opposite side of the road, and cross the river at the ford (usually OK except after rain). Head across the paddock to the entrance to the valley. Once through the gate, head left up the hill to where it flattens out. Follow the fairly flat and clear area up the valley, until you find the first boulder (Crystal Boulder). Total walking time about 10 minutes.</text> <text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="87">Crystal Boulder</text> <image new="false" number="null." src="crystal.jpg" width="" id="88" height="375">null</image> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="89">Left arete</problem> <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="The Crystal" new="false" number="2." stars="**" id="90">Sloper problem in middle of face. The obvious sit start is a project.</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="91">Jugs to the right. Pretty dirty.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="92">Third Turd Boulder</text> <image new="false" number="null." src="thirdturd.jpg" width="" id="93" height="176">null</image> <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="94">There are a couple of slab problems on the next boulder along from the Crystal Boulder.</text> <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3?" name="Third Turd" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="95">Slab 1m left of arete</problem> <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="96">Arete</problem> <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="97">Right of arete</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="98">Paydirt Boulder</text> <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="99">Keep going through the trees from Third Turd to find this boulder.</text> <image new="false" number="null." src="paydirt.jpg" width="" id="100" height="219">null</image> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="101"/> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="102">Left arete</problem> <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="103">Mantle</problem> <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="" id="104">Swing start up to highest part of boulder</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="Paydirt" new="false" number="5." stars="*" id="105" length="" fa="">Right arete of steep face. Sit start, throw for juggy lip and top out.<br/>*Previous starting hold has broken off, what used to be hang started can now be sit started*</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="106">Short arete on back of boulder.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="107">Butterflies Boulder</text> <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="108">From Paydirt, head further along then up the hill to find this large boulder.</text> <image new="false" number="null." src="butterfliesfront.jpg" width="" id="109" height="369">null</image> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Butterflies" new="false" number="1." stars="*" id="110">Steep start in under arete, then step left onto slab and top out.</problem> <image new="false" number="null." src="butterfliesback.jpg" width="" id="111" height="375" legend="true">null <drawing> <path id="63700" points="169.0,215.0, 225.0,181.0, 267.0,175.0, 284.0,152.0," d="M169.0,215.0C191.4,201.4 209.3,187.4 225.0,181.0C240.7,174.6 256.7,180.0 267.0,175.0C277.3,170.0 277.2,161.2 284.0,152.0" arrow="true" linkedTo="166"/> <path id="55426" points="339.0,145.0, 360.0,129.0, 380.0,98.0, 413.0,86.0, 422.0,73.0, 421.0,49.0," d="M339.0,145.0C347.4,138.6 353.1,137.0 360.0,129.0C366.9,121.0 369.1,106.8 380.0,98.0C390.9,89.2 409.0,90.9 413.0,86.0C417.0,81.1 418.0,77.9 422.0,73.0C426.0,68.1 421.4,58.6 421.0,49.0" arrow="true" linkedTo="167"/> <path id="5840" points="" d=""/> <path id="3940" points="" d=""/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>113</climb> <climb>166</climb> <climb>114</climb> <climb>167</climb> <climb>115</climb> </legend> </image> <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="112">This is the back side of the Butterflies boulder.</text> <problem id="168" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="" name="Warm up" length="" grade="V0" fa="">Sit start as per #1, but then head up and onto the slab to the left.</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="113" length="" fa="">Left hand side of steep face</problem> <problem id="166" stars="*" extra="(SDS)" number="1b" name="Three Plus Six is Five" length="" grade="V5" fa="">Start as for V3 and finish up If Six Was Nine</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="If Six Was Nine" new="false" number="2." stars="***" id="114" length="" fa="">Sit start off opposing side pulls in middle of steep face, up on edges.</problem> <problem id="167" stars="**" extra="(SDS)" number="2b" name="Face full of rug" length="" grade="V7" fa="T. Anderson">Start as for If Six Was Nine and finish up top right of boulder via bad slopers.</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V9" name="Plan B" new="false" number="3." stars="***" id="115" length="" fa="J. Schwarz, 2022">Up the right arete on beautiful holds.</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="116">Centipede Boulder</text> <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="117">This is the next boulder across the hill from Butterflies Boulder, and is visible from the back of Butterflies.</text> <image new="false" number="null." src="centipede.jpg" width="" id="118" height="314">null</image> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="*" id="119">Nice easy jugs on the bottom of the boulder</problem> <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="Centipede" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="120">Left hand side of high face</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="" id="121">Easy problem up to the right</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="122">Scorpion Boulder</text> <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="123">This boulder is 30m along from Centipede, and a bit higher up the hill.</text> <image new="false" number="null." src="scorpion.jpg" width="" id="124" height="375">null</image> <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="125">Mantle on slopers</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="126">Big move from undercling to good holds</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Scorpion" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="127">Up steep bottom face of boulder</problem> <text class="heading3" new="false" number="null." id="128">Pine Boulder</text> <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="129">Pine Boulder is about 50m across the hill from Scorpion Boulder, on about the same level.</text> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Pine" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="130">Left arete of bottom face</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0-" name="" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="131">Right arete</problem> <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="132">There are several more boulders up the gully waiting for development.</text> <text class="heading3" new="false" id="133">The Elderslie Arch</text> <text class="text" new="false" id="134">The Elderslie Arch is a super cool ten metre long arch of good quality sandstone. To get there head 100m uphill from the 'Butterflies' boulder to the ridge top, then walk another 100m till you see the arch.</text> <image id="170" src="Arch.jpg" height="450" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Elderslie Arch"/> <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="Full Traverse L to R" new="false" number="" stars="***" id="135">A classic! Start from left end and head right till you get back on the ground. Six or more pads recommended so you can caterpillar them along safely. Can be done R to L as well at about the same grade.</problem> <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="The Fire of Life" new="false" number="" stars="**" id="136">Start on left side, bust out a few steep moves then top out where it starts getting hard to traverse and easy to head for jugs straight up.</problem> <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="The Rainbow Connection" new="false" number="" stars="***" id="137">Start on the right base at pocket, head left till you get to about the middle (where its obvious to do a beached whale move). Fun and airy!</problem> <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="Smooth Latin Groove" new="false" number="" stars="**" id="138">Start on right side on down hill side at big horizontal (don't use the big tongue of rock as it is super fragile). Bust up good holds then a powerful move to big undercling out right. Head right on undercling to top out in groove on uphill side.</problem> <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="Let that Boy Boogie Woogie" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="139">Start as for Smooth Latin Groove but head straight up toward good hold on arete, top out. Don't fall off!</problem> <text id="141" class="heading2">The Terrace</text> <text id="142">The Terrace is a good little north facing area high on the hillside overlooking the next valley north of The Gully. To get there park and cross the paddock as for the Gully. Instead of heading up the valley, head left and up the hill to find a gap in the small cliffs. Head straight up the hill until you can see into the next valley. Then turn right and walk along the ridge (east) until you find the boulders. The boulders are described roughly west to east, as you come to them.</text> <text id="144" class="heading3">Tommy's Boulder</text> <text id="145">A steep boulder with some good problems.</text> <problem id="146" name="Project" grade="V?" stars="" extra="" number="" length="" fa="">Start as for Reibung, move left onto left-trending line of small holds and finish via lip straight up</problem> <problem id="147" grade="V4" extra="(Stand)" stars="*" number="" name="Reibung" length="" fa="T. Krauss, 2012">Up from the big sloper and then traverse left along the lip. Sit start is a project.</problem> <problem id="148" grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" stars="*" number="" name="Wunderbar" length="" fa="T. Krauss, 2012">Sit start at the right side of the boulder then move left all the way along the lip and finish as for Reibung</problem> <problem id="149">These two problems are on a face on the back wall just to the right of a roof.</problem> <problem id="150" grade="V0" extra="(Stand)">Left side of face</problem> <problem id="151" grade="V0">Right side of face.</problem> <text id="152" class="heading3">Terrace Boulder</text> <problem id="153" number="1." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)">Left side of E face.</problem> <problem id="154" number="2." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" stars="*">Nice arete</problem> <problem id="155" number="3." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Start on right side of arete, up to ramp then move right and up.</problem> <problem id="156" number="4." name="Project" extra="(SDS)" grade="V?">Sit start on big holds and up thin face.</problem> <problem id="157" number="5." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)">Start on big diagonal hold just left of arete</problem> <problem id="158" number="6." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)">Silly little problem just right of arete</problem> <text id="159" class="heading3">Winter is Coming Area</text> <text id="160">These are the problems around the distinctive bulge of Winter is Coming.</text> <problem id="161" stars="***" number="1." name="Winter is Coming" grade="V4" extra="(SDS)">Great holds out through the bulge.</problem> <problem id="162" number="2." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)">The little prow to the right of Winter is Coming.</problem> <problem id="163" number="3." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Jugs around to the right.</problem> <problem id="164" number="4." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)">Nice stand start on chicken heads.</problem> </guide> |
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