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Introduction to the Peninsula

Turrakana / Tasman Peninsula is home to an absolute plethora of climbing.  Most notably, the peninsula is home to the world famous sea pillar of the Totem Pole, the tallest (300 m) sea cliffs in Australia at Cape Pillar, as well as a host of other incredible sea cliffs and stacks. The peninsula has a complete abundance of dolerite which is the primary rock type climbed-on here.  Sedimentary rocks of sandstone and siltstone are also abundant, but are usually complete choss.  The climbing on the dolerite sea cliffs here is quite different from the alpine dolerite found in inland areas of the State.  Whilst soaring splitter cracks are still common as is found inland, areas affected by the roaring swells common in the area often form unique and interesting features, similar to the granite found on the East Coast at Freycinet. 

Access

South of the canal at Dunalley marks the beginning of the Peninsula proper, though most of the accessible climbing is South of Eaglehawk Neck ~1.5 hours drive from Hobart.

Safety

The rock quality on the Peninsula varies from superb to complete death choss - sometimes all within the same pitch!  Wearing a helmet whilst climbing here is strongly recommended, and serious consideration should be given to the often remote and exposed nature of climbing here. Loose rock, swell affected belay ledges and the inability for easy and quick rescue is common.  The grades do not reflect the serious nature of climbing here - so be prepared for all situations.  There have been a number of serious rescues in the post 2019 era due to parties' lack of planning and skill in self-rescue.