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Introduction to the Peninsula
Turrakana / Turrakana - Tasman Peninsula has an absolute abundance of dolerite. Although a lot of it is choss, there is plenty that is good quality. From the amazing sea stacks of the Totem Pole and Candle Stick to the modern sport climbing of Mt Brown, the area has cliffs everywhere. There is huge potential for as much climbing as anyone could want, the only drawback are the long approach walks to the undeveloped areas. Despite this, the development of many new sport climbs at Mt Brown and the climbing of the Free Route on the Totem Pole has seen a resurgence in climbing on the Peninsula, as has the recent development at Cape Raoul. Cape Pillar and Tasman Island have had quite a few routes put up over the years, but details are sketchy.
Access
Port Arthur is a bit over an hours drive from Hobart. The Candle Stick and the Totem Pole can be reached by an hour and a bit's walk to Cape Hauy from Fortescue Bay, which you turn off to a couple of kms before Port Arthur.
Mt Brown and Dauntless Point are half an hours walk south on a new track (2019) from the Remarkable Cave car park, just south of Port Arthur. After walking along the track for about 25 minutes leave the track at the far end (east) of a longer section of duckboard, just past a sandy creek. From here follow the coast on round, first passing above Parrot Shelf Cliffs, and then coming to an amazingly steep and juggy (for dolerite) cliff above a sloping pavement - this is the Paradiso.
For Mt Brown, stay on the path for another few minutes and then follow the signposted track up right to the summit.
Long and short dolerite sea cliffs. The rock is quite different from alpine dolerite because it has been weathered by the waves, not snow and ice.
Camping
There is good but expensive camping at Fortescue Bay and you could also possibly camp on the flat areas on the way to Mt. Brown (but there is no water). The area has recently been declared a national park so entry fees now apply.
Guide
is home to an absolute plethora of climbing. Most notably, the peninsula is home to the world famous sea pillar of the Totem Pole, the tallest (300 m) sea cliffs in Australia at Cape Pillar, as well as a host of other incredible sea cliffs and stacks. The peninsula has a complete abundance of dolerite which is the primary rock type climbed-on here. Sedimentary rocks of sandstone and siltstone are also abundant, but are usually complete choss. The climbing on the dolerite sea cliffs here is quite different from the alpine dolerite found in inland areas of the State. Whilst soaring splitter cracks are still common as is found inland, areas affected by the roaring swells common in the area often form unique and interesting features, similar to the granite found on the East Coast at Freycinet.
Access
South of the canal at Dunalley marks the beginning of the Peninsula proper, though most of the accessible climbing is South of Eaglehawk Neck ~1.5 hours drive from Hobart.
Safety
The rock quality on the Peninsula varies from superb to complete death choss - sometimes all within the same pitch! Wearing a helmet whilst climbing here is strongly recommended, and serious consideration should be given to the often remote and exposed nature of climbing here. Loose rock, swell affected belay ledges and the inability for easy and quick rescue is common. The grades do not reflect the serious nature of climbing here - so be prepared for all situations. There have been a number of serious rescues in the post 2019 era due to parties' lack of planning and skill in self-rescue.
Camping
Great camping and facilities exist at the serene Fortescue Bay, within the National Park. Summer is busy here so ring ahead to book a camp-site (about $10 a night). There are other campsites and hotels scattered amongst the place, but Fortescue is probably your closest and best bet.
Guide
Despite sea cliffs wrapping around much of the coastline, the climbing is focused around the major capes and bays, and this is how the guide has been split-up. Individual access is described in each individual section.
- Fortescue Bay / Cape Hauy - Home to the triptych of classic trio of sea spires as well as a host of cragging options.
- Mt. Brown - Home to some of the States best sport climbing at the Paradiso, as well as adventurous sport and trad lines on the main face and surrounds itself.
- Cape Pillar - overnight walk-in, extreme adventure trad.
- Cape Raoul - Home to adventurous trad and the best 22 sport climb in the known universe (Pole Dancer)
- Craglets 6 covers the Totem Pole, Candle Stick and Mt Brown. The update available here covers Cape Raoul.
- Climb Tasmania Selected Best has photo topos and descriptions of the best routes at the Candlestick, the Moai, Mt Brown and Cape Raoul.
Online Guides
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There are some great coastal walks on the Peninsula that take in some spectacular scenery. Cape Raoul and Cape Pillar are great, and the walk out to Cape Hauy to contemplate the singularity of the Totem Pole is a must even if you don't plan on attempting the thing. There are also some funky caves and other natural features that don't require walking, including Tasman Arch, Remarkable Cave, and the Tessalated Pavement at Eaglehawk Neck. The Port Arthur historic site is a grim reminder of Tasmania's history as the penal colony of Van Dieman's Land and is worth a look.
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Popular Routes
15 - Dauntless
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, Smooth Sailing
16 - The Normal Route (Candslestick), Salt Flakes
17 - Inferno, The Pud Life
18 - Sacred Site (Moai), The Corner Route (Candlestick)
19 - Aftershock, Starfish Arete
20 - Peg Leg, Brown Eye, Geronimo
21 - Shockwave, Mans Machine, Disaster Master-Pole Axed Linkup
22 - Pole Dancer, Too Tall Oxen, Psycho-Man, Blunt Instrument / Burning Spear, The Salty Swine
23 - I've Heard It All Before
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, Thriller, Rum on the Rocks
24 - Talk is Cheap
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, Offender of the Faith
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, The Golden Pillar, The Devil and the Deep Blue Sea
25 - The Totem Pole (
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Free Route),
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Sultan of Sweat
26 - The Edge of Reason
27+ - Déjà Vu (28
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), The Totem Pole (The Sorcerer), Expendable Youth
Gallery
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