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changes.mady.by.user Chris Lang

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changes.mady.by.user Tim Meech

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Comment: Guide edited
Guide
<guide version="2">
  <header access="Cleverly positioned so you can fit in at least two or three nightmare epics after work. The Quarry is on Waterworks Road (surprise) between Lynton Ave and Romilly Street in Dynyrne. Travel south along Davey Street (B64) heading for Ferntree (Mt Wellington), over the lights at the end of the Southern Outlet, and turn L at the first roundabout on Huon Road down Lynton Avenue. Turn R at the bottom of the steep hill into Waterworks Road, the cliff is about a km further on the LH side. After some debate as to whether they would close the cliff to climbers due to safety issues, the Hobart Council in their wisdom decided instead to clear the old quarry floor for a &quot;pump&quot; bike track, erect a fence along the cliff line, and even install a child-proof gate - plus of course the usual warning notices etc. We are in their debt!" acknowledgement="by John Domeney, originally published in Craglets. Updated by Tony McKenny, Dec 2007" guide.action="submit" guide.id="0" guide.page="0" guide.type="header" history="" intro="WARNING. A massive rock fall occurred above and over Justin&apos;s Crack and Spiderman&apos;s Arsehole in 2010. The cliff there is still extremely dangerous and unstable and more rock falls over these climbs are likely.        &lt;br/&gt;A rock is a rock they say, but if you think bolted routes take the adventure out of climbing then it’s time you paid a visit to the birthplace of the world’s next fad: choss climbing! Take one tottering pile of exfoliating rubble, add wide-eyed climbers with psychotic hammer drills and shares in Ramset. The result: a multitude of good routes carefully engineered so that every ascent is a first ascent i.e. all the holds break all the time. The procedure for doing new routes is as follows. Put on a blindfold, rap down, drilling at random. Carry a sack of rocks to place on holds so that every ascentionist gets a “unique” experience and every belayer gets a discount lobotomy. Remember, leading is the way to go here as the only other access to the chains is by jumping off the top and grabbing them on the way past. &lt;br/&gt;If you haven&apos;t got the message, the rock here is loose, and small and large chunks can and do come off - be warned. Oh, and take the stars with a grain of salt too (or perhaps some crumbly dolerite flakes instead?)." name="Waterworks Quarry" rock="Slabby, chossy, quarried dolerite" sun="Afternoon sun" walk="30 seconds" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <gps id="38">
    <point pid="0" latitude="-42.90333" longitude="147.31081" easting="525373" northing="5249873" zone="55G" code="" description="Waterworks Quarry"/>
  </gps>
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  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="7m" name="Justin’s Crack" number="1." stars="*" id="3" fa=" Justin Kennedy.">Warning - extremely dangerous loose rock above. Description included here for historical record only. Trad climbing at the Waterworks! The thin line to the S-shaped crack 20m L of Twilight Groping. Take some small cams for the crack. Walk off at far L of cliff.</climb>
  <climb extra="2Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="2" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="7m" name="Spiderman’s Arsehole" number="2." stars="" id="4" fa="Jon Tiller, Nov 1991.">Warning - extremely dangerous loose rock above. Description included here for historical record only. Start just R of Justin’s Crack. Follow thin face on tweaky holds, clipping the carrot bolt near Justin’s Crack. The crux starts at the second bolt (again, no bracket).</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="17" length="10m" name="Don&apos;t Buy a Cheap Ryobi" number="3." stars="" id="5" fa="A. Lewis and T. Helleman, June, 2009.">Start just left of Twilight Groping at a tree. Climb the face past 4 U's to a chain. Stays left of Twilight Groping the whole way, and avoids the easier (and chossier) left arête.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="17" length="10m" name="Twilight Groping" number="4." stars="" id="6" fa="Richard Marshall, May 1989.">4 U bolts up the slab to the L of The Eye-Bolt Route with crux at the crux. Use lower-off on DBACR.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="3" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Eye Bolt Route" number="5." stars="*" id="7" fa="">Classic face climbing. 5 glue-ins plus a lower-off. Probably the best beginner's lead in Hobart.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="15" length="11m" name="Weetbix" number="6." stars="*" id="8" fa="E Jones, T Gilbert and G Abell, 14 Nov 2009.">2-3m right of the Eye Bolt Route. Up dark slabby rock past 4 U-bolts. Lower off has now been moved L, the route finishes straight up and is quite fun at the grade.</climb>
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      <climb>14</climb>
      <climb>15</climb>
      <climb>16</climb>
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  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="12" guide.action="submit" guide.id="4" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8m" name="Five Four" number="7." stars="" id="10" fa=" Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.">Start 10m L of Bastard Cancer. Up slab into corner past 3 bolts to lower-off. Good for beginners!</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="5" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Death Unto Racists" number="8." stars="" id="11" fa="Jon Tiller, Aug 1993.">Start 2m L of Bastard Cancer. Up left side of face. 4 bolts plus lower off.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="19" length="15m" name="Bastard Cancer" number="9." stars="*" id="12" fa="Richard Marshall, Feb 1987.">The arête left of the big slab. Starts on face, stay out of corner on R as very loose. 5 bolts led up right side of face to shared lower off.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="7" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Phantom Stone Thrower" number="10." stars="*" id="13" fa="Jon Tiller, Sep 1993.">Start 3m R of Bastard Cancer. Tricky slab climbing, moving L into the groove at the very top. 5 BRs plus lower off.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="20" length="15m" name="Ruddiocracy" number="11." stars="*" id="14" fa="Guy Abell &amp; Emlyn Jones, Mar 2010">Start immediately R of PST, climbing just to the L of the bolts. Exciting climbing with some thin moves. The crux clip is now a little cruxier, having lost a handy jug, adding a grade or two (from 19). May still shed a little rock so belayer beware!</climb>
  <climb extra="7Þ" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="8" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Les Grands Ensembles" number="12." stars="**" id="15" fa="Richard Cockerill, May 2000.">Starts 5m to the R of Phantom Stone Thrower (under L end of roof) and follows a line of bolts up to the chain at the top of TdF (the last bolt is not visible from the ground). Thin slabbing.</climb>
  <climb extra="7Þ" grade="26" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Tour de France" number="13." stars="*" id="16" fa="Hamish Jackson, Sep 1994.">The line of bolts up the big slab 2m R of LGE. A well known test piece, originally bolted by Justin Kennedy and Richard Marshall circa 1987 but not climbed free until 1994. More good thin slabbing, but it's a bit contrived in spots. Difficult last clip, and the hanger is missing off the first bolt.</climb>
  <climb id="39" stars="" extra="9" number="14." name="Driller Direct (Project)" length="23m" grade="" fa="">(Project - T. Meech) bolting and anchor</climb>
  <climb extra="9Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="11" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Serial Driller" number="1415." stars="***" id="17" fa="John Domeney, Dec 1993.">Magic climbing. Follow the steel to the R of Tour. Start at the layback crack (blue spray paint arrow) and trend L at the top to the chain in the middle of the face. WARNING: a very large chunk of rock has come off (May 2017) at the start of the moves left to the chains, taking several holds with it (and the climber on it - luckily, no injury sustained), bringing the grade up to 21.</climb>
  <climb extra="9Þ" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="12" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Open Festering Wounds" number="1516." stars="**" id="18" fa="John Domeney, Jan 1994.">Start as for Serial Driller. Move R at the third bolt and up past six more to a chain.</climb>
  <climb id="32" name="Totally Awesome" length="21m" grade="21" fa="Dave Humphries Feb 2012" extra="8Þ" stars="" number="1617.">Name says it all... Start a metre to the right of OFW. Climb past the bolts until you're at the anchors (you clip a couple of OFW bolts). All the obvious loose stuff has been removed, but I guess it will 'shed' for a little while.</climb>
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  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="13" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Sequels of the Light" number="1718." stars="*" id="20" fa="Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.">At the R end of the crag is a short buttress. Start at the corner at the L end of this. Up the corner then continue with some tricky moves past the overlap. Lower-off is over on the back (best to abseil off this to clean the route, as the top is quite loose).</climb>
  <climb id="36" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="1819." name="Sequels of Nongs" length="12" grade="22" fa="">Start up Sequels and move R at the overlap into Pathetic Nongs, finishing as for that route.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Pathetic Nongs Steal Hangers, Yes I’m Talking to You Arsehole" number="1920." stars="**" id="22" fa="A. Rosa, Oct 1992.">Very nice, balancey, climbing up the groove just R of SOTL.</climb>
  <text id="33">The rock to the R of PNSH etc is in the process of "stablisation" - most of the loose rock has been removed but CAUTION if you are round that area! There is probably still some more to come down....</text>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Oh Joyous Lobotomy" number="2021." stars="*" id="23" fa="J. Domeney, Sept 1993.">"A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. This route epitomises its creators hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi. The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionists subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalisingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come," John Domeney, Many have puzzled over this eclectic description, but most have scratched their heads and abandoned their search for the elusive climb, believing it to be a complete figment of John's fertile imagination. The best bet is to climb Trad Wankers to the overlap, then via a long reach clip the bolt over the lip. Traverse left a metre and stem up to the overlap then layback the right hand arête of the rooflet above to reach the lower-off. Enjoy! The final moves above the overlap have altered considerably due to changes to the rock that occurred in mid 2017. Now slightly harder as a result. Careful of loose holds towards the end.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="16" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Trad Wankers Must Die" number="2122." stars="**" id="24" fa="J.Domeney, S.Stojanovski, Oct 1992.">Looks like a pile of choss, particularly in the region near the overlap. Climb the loose pedestal to a ledge, the up the wall past three bolts to the overlap. Move right then up the wall past the fifth bolt, to the lower-off.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="23" guide.action="submit" guide.id="17" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Urban Renewal" number="2223." stars="**" id="25" fa="Evan Peacock, Dec 1992.">Harder than it looks and prone to spitting climbers off like flies. Start immediately right of Trad Wankers. Follow the corner and thin face (crux) then up the flake finishing at a lower off.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="18" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Drilling in the Name of" number="2324." stars="*" id="26" fa="John Domeney, Dec 1993.">Start up Urban Renewal to the second BR, move R past 2 more to finish at the Jesus chain.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Resurrection" number="2425." stars="*" id="27" fa="OCCG (Old Codgers Climbing Group) 2005.">Takes a line between DITNO and Jesus, covering the line of another route that fell down... Climb to the 3rd bolt of Jesus and trend L past 2 more to finish as for DITNO.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Jesus Built My Hammer Drill" number="2526." stars="**" id="28" fa="John Domeney, Oct 1992.">The cliff classic - a chameleon of a route, changing all the time. The grade is anything from 14 to 20, presently about 17-18. At the RH end of the climbable rock are 4 bolts plus a lower off, with actually some decent moves in between.</climb>
  <text id="30"/>
  <climb id="31" name=" The Process of Elimination         " length="10m" grade="20" extra="4Þ" fa="D. Gray, Jan 2012." stars="" number="2627.">Takes the old top rope line between JBMHD and BLC, using the existing bolts. A little discipline is needed to eschew the holds on the other two climbs but it gives an independent and surprisingly solid climb. Finish at the BLC rap chains.</climb>
  <climb id="29" name="The Blind Leading The Crippled " length="10m" grade="16" fa="Duncan Meerding, Paul Pritchard, Nov 2010." extra="4Þ" stars="" number="2728.">The soaring line R of Jesus Built My Hammer Drill. 4 bolts to chain.</climb>
</guide>