Versions Compared

Key

  • This line was added.
  • This line was removed.
  • Formatting was changed.
Comment: Guide edited
Guide
<guide version="3">
  <header access="ParkTakes toaround the25 Colesminutes. BayPark side ofbefore where the road crosses Dove Creek and walk straight to(the Coles Bay side) Follow a path towards the cliff. If you&apos;re lucky you&apos;ll findwhere you will hit a fire trail after 50m Follow the fire trail right for 50m then you will see a cairned track route you&apos;ll arrive in about 25 minutes. going through the scrub towards the cliff.&lt;br/&gt;You can descend from each end of the cliff, or use the gully above Porked, or downclimb the obvious vegetated line just right of Durham at about grade 6. The cliff is up to 60m high and faces due west." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="About 500m north from the summit of Mt. Dove, and to the east of Dove Creek, is a prominent bulge of sweeping granite slab called Sow Spur. The cliff is up to 60m high and faces due west, and has some quite good slab climbs. Windy Hill is the cliff just below the summit of Mt Dove." name="Mt Dove" rock="Slabby pink and grey granite, up to 60m" sun="Afternoon sun" walk="25-50 min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <text class="heading1" id="2">Sow Spur</text>
  <image id="59" src="sow spur pano 2.jpg" height="416" width="1000" legend="true" legendTitle="Sow Spur" legendx="824834" legendy="284266" printLayout="Rotate">
    <drawing>
      <path id="66112" points="68,388, 58,356, 48,333, 48,304, 44,257, 54,211, 65,173, 96,148, 122,135," d="M68,388C64,375.2 61.428348967409242834896740921,365.42795966037534 58,356C54.571651032590857165103259079,346.57204033962466 49.89450741492904,342.851438557631 48,333C46.10549258507096,323.148561442369 48.60968246422406,315.5839668202571 48,304C47.39031753577594,292.4160331797429 42.7876969205365,275.79069773168425 44,257C45.2123030794635,238.20930226831575 50.162108421971006,226.3515663121159535156631211598 54,211C57.837891578028994,195.6484336878840564843368788402 56.22240614711789422240614711789,186.16639077932317 65,173C73.777593852882177759385288212,159.83360922067683 86.32529070204174,154.44980619863884 96,148C105.67470929795826,141.55019380136116 117.75871905915616,145.8264276647856 122,135" linkedTo="7"/>
      <path id="73533" points="132,397, 124,337, 113,290, 112,231, 118,181, 122,135, 130,97,belay" d="M132,397C128.8,373 127.37572145517514,356.01064187914415 124,337C120.62427854482486,317.98935812085585 115.17194121622771,309.1854807433447 113,290C110.82805878377229,270.8145192566553 111.07695753552109,251.122325725640341223257256404 112,231C112.92304246447891,210.877674274359668776742743596 116.08645424311949,199.37003926605288 118,181C119.91354575688051,162.62996073394712 117.75871905915616,145.8264276647856 122,135C126.24128094084384,124.173572335214421735723352144 126.8,112.199999999999992 130,97" linkedTo="8"/>
      <path id="98460" points="167,397, 167,308, 169,243, 170,209, 179,195,belay" d="M167,397C167,361.4 166.66220634535307,334.010111407813670101114078137 167,308C167.33779365464693,281.989888592186339898885921863 168.58788974486757,256.59963841937036 169,243C169.41211025513243,229.40036158062964 168.64220987999494,215.5173925760243 170,209C171.35779012000506,202.4826074239757 179.20164461425665,201.65427227046965 179,195" linkedTo="9"/>
      <path id="87175" points="182,397, 182,334, 192,295, 191,235, 189,214, 179,195," d="M182,397C182,371.8 180.428645613565,350.02781474163686 182,334C183.571354386435,317.97218525836314 190.54195279934282,311.03851920722906 192,295C193.45804720065718,278.96148079277094 191.31230473351414,243.43222780488196 191,235C190.68769526648586,226.56777219511804 191.42464411462151,222.08214704873842 189,214C186.57535588537849,205.91785295126158 179.20164461425665,201.65427227046965 179,195" linkedTo="10"/>
      <path id="76004" points="237,378, 237,340, 253,303, 264,284, 259,251, 256,219, 252,191,belay" d="M237,378C237,362.8 233.8286952290881,354.86549111364945 237,340C240.1713047709119,325.13450888635055 249.18607168930507,310.9103698295895 253,303C256.813928310694981392831069496,295.0896301704105 262.993394081851,292.7239179572912 264,284C265.006605918149,275.2760820427088 260.570442775337157044277533714,263.75984754961405 259,251C257.429557224662942955722466286,238.2401524503859824015245038595 257.31104045548227,230.23748961841963 256,219C254.6889595445177,207.76251038158037 253.6,202.2 252,191" linkedTo="11"/>
      <path id="45915" points="336,397, 322,339, 306,323, 300,292, 289,281, 291,228, 290,173,belay" d="M336,397C330.4,373.8 325.4004944654839,347.38788634819366 322,339C318.5995055345161,330.61211365180634 309.83706782469034,331.1973721709293 306,323C302.16293217530966,314.8026278290707 301.48234290802696,298.0433980096484 300,292C298.51765709197304,285.9566019903516 290.48234290802696,287.0433980096484 289,281C287.51765709197304,274.9566019903516 290.803572411089,249.2141796023865421417960238657 291,228C291.196427588911,206.7858203976134678582039761343 290.4,195 290,173" linkedTo="12"/>
      <path id="30047" points="356,394, 355,378, 360,362, 360,345, 347,332, 342,299, 334,283, 327,246, 312,219, 320,197, 321,161,belay" d="M356,394C356.4,387.6 354.6,384.4 355,378C355.4,371.6 358.9955216972566,368.6295567981063 360,362C361.0044783027434,355.3704432018937 362.70373057591326,351.2393782521075 360,345C357.29626942408674,338.7606217478925 349.6797602045889,338.84827607839384 347,332C344.3202397954111,325.15172392160616 343.89416053139604,305.90015622151424 342,299C340.10583946860396,292.09984377848576 335.89416053139604,289.90015622151424 334,283C332.10583946860396,276.09984377848576 331.0162812754889,257.6837273468768 327,246C322.9837187245111,234.316272653123231627265312318 313.32423562857974,228.26964940005823 312,219C310.67576437142026,209.73035059994177 318.5641860553681,206.253023198738925302319873893 320,197C321.4358139446319,187.746976801261174697680126107 320.6,175.4 321,161" linkedTo="13"/>
      <path id="44851" points="391,382, 381,333, 379,301, 383,267, 378,224, 367,186, 354,165, 355,139, 366,109,belay" d="M391,382C387,362.400000000000034 382.8794830075951,345.6865103012673 381,333C379.1205169924049,320.3134896987327 378.61154268887196,313.819091267224458190912672245 379,301C379.38845731112804,288.180908732775551809087327755 383.1778264876121,280.6926395461322 383,267C382.8221735123879,253.3073604538678 381.06648255193284,239.5240679191599352406791915996 378,224C374.93351744806716,208.4759320808400747593208084004 370.72249091665776,195.1511235034503 367,186C363.27750908334224,176.8488764965497 356.4439661772891,174.57220086104897572200861049 354,165C351.5560338227109,155.42779913895103427799138951 352.81928631060333,149.17666388385103 355,139C357.18071368939667,128.82333611614897 361.6,120.99999999999999121 366,109" linkedTo="14"/>
      <path id="55327" points="431,350, 423,281, 421,230," d="M431,350C427.8,322.400000000000034 424.6954299627589,301.34515955310695 423,281C421.3045700372411,260.65484044689305 421.8,250.4 421,230" linkedTo="15"/>
      <path id="99912" points="386,105, 404,209, 440,218, 446,267, 486,299," d="M386,105C393.2,146.5999999999999760000000000002 397.6000223143519,195.607454102255 404,209C410.3999776856481,222.392545897745 431.2943291385324,205.9778830960685897788309606855 440,218C448.7056708614676,230.0221169039314202211690393145 436.2487388191088,249.8293009640829 446,267C455.7512611808912,284.1706990359171 470,286.2 486,299" arrow="true" lineStyle="dashed"/>
      <path id="98247" points="553,285, 545,219, 540,162, 533,110, 540,69,belay" d="M553,285C549.8,258.6 547.4056107336183,241.760778479619267607784796193 545,219C542.5943892663817,196.239221520380742392215203807 542.2966869386076,182.86157302568597 540,162C537.7033130613924,141.13842697431403 533,126.63730747446834 533,110C533,93.36269252553166 537.2,85.399999999999994 540,69" linkedTo="17"/>
      <path id="90995" points="574,290, 563,186, 560,163, 559,111,belay" d="M574,290C569.6,248.400000000000034 564.0166057689357,195.222066618202582220666182026 563,186C561.9833942310643,176.777933381797427779333817974 560.4941207257492,172.26476360779836 560,163C559.5058792742508,153.73523639220164 560.3927566420555,131.493419161672649341916167262 559,111" linkedTo="19"/>
      <path id="93437" points="602,284, 595,205, 580,160, 574,109,belay" d="M602,284C599.2,252.400000000000034 598.3145329422821,223.6819129474079 595,205C591.6854670577179,186.3180870525921 587.3804736717399,173.99745006709276 580,160C572.6195263282601,146.00254993290724 575.3927566420555,129.493419161672649341916167262 574,109" linkedTo="20"/>
      <path id="3233" points="682,244, 681,217, 654,200, 641,180, 618,174, 581,160," d="M682,244C681.6,233.200000000000022 686.8022308083134,226.11779127020677 681,217C675.1977691916866,207.88220872979323 661.0044012531255,206.47907115914109 654,200C646.9955987468745,193.52092884085891 648.7078501118572,185.56678063634126 641,180C633.2921498881428,174.43321936365874 627.0199778270237,177.0066592756746 618,174C608.9800221729763,170.9933407243254 588.3804736717399,173.99745006709276 581,160" linkedTo="21"/>
      <path id="80945" points="830,253, 824,184, 817,149, 796,95,belay" d="M830,253C827.6,225.400000000000034 825.7708754896943,198.1670039175543316700391755435 824,184C822.2291245103057,169.8329960824456783299608244565 821.2846795720377,162.61916006826274 817,149C812.7153204279623,135.38083993173726 804.4,116.6 796,95" linkedTo="22"/>
      <path id="5674" points="880,236, 869,194, 868,171, 867,110, 866,80,belay" d="M880,236C875.6,219.200000000000022 870.6718147393698,203.0556631715864 869,194C867.3281852606302,184.9443368284136 868.219192440059,180.206082482479762060824824798 868,171C867.780807559941,161.793917517520247939175175202 867.2638190341887,122.00376605558438 867,110C866.7361809658113,97.99623394441562 866.4,92 866,80" linkedTo="23"/>
      <path id="89278" points="916,236, 907,212, 904,163, 901,144, 895,117, 882,93, 874,73,belay" d="M916,236C912.4,226.4 908.6630725605569,222.11702474338787 907,212C905.3369274394431,201.88297525661213 904.6762684790776,170.66437609621332 904,163C903.3237315209224,155.33562390378668 902.4773667972506,151.5509858526143 901,144C899.5226332027494,136.4490141473857 898.8115287640583,127.2309456298406823094562984069 895,117C891.1884712359417,106.7690543701593276905437015931 885.7112796945221,100.77601459804623 882,93C878.2887203054779,85.22398540195377 877.2,81 874,73" linkedTo="24"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>8</climb>
      <climb>10</climb>
      <climb>11</climb>
      <climb>12</climb>
      <climb>14</climb>
      <climb>17</climb>
      <climb>19</climb>
      <climb>21</climb>
      <climb>23</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb extra="" grade="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="3" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="8" name="The Trotter" number="1." stars="**" id="4" fa="M.McHugh, Robert McMahon, C.Viney 1967?">This line is the obvious crack splitting the pillar of Sow Spur. The way off is to downclimb it - its an easy solo.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="120m" name="Do As You Swill" number="2." stars="" id="5" fa="Joe Friend 1974.">Another psychodrama by the master. At the lowest point of Sow Spur, at a water streak where the track first meets the cliff. 1. 60m. Climb the water streak, heading right when it does. When it disappears, continue up and rightwards, heading for a belay at the foot of a corner directly below a break in the wall above. 2. 25m. Climb the corner then up to the roof. Through this, then up to the slab to belay. 3. 35m. Step up onto slab and place a runner or two in the short crack. Move up and rightwards towards crack on the righthand edge. Climb to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="5" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="40m" name="House Of Straw" number="3." stars="" id="6" fa="E. Peacock, C. Reed Jan 1991.">Increased traffic would earn it a star. Takes the line up the steep slab 3m left of the Crack of Pork. Tenuous and sustained slab climbing, has your toes screaming for respite and your mind on full alert due to loose crystals underfoot . Start below COP and up the water worn groove below the main crack of COP for 3m. Traverse left to a bolt and follow the bolt line up the wall to the top, a crux at every clip as you wait for your feet to peel off. The second bolt needs a wire or a pre-bent hanger, and the top section is a wee bit run out.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="6" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="100m" name="The Crack Of Pork" number="4." stars="" id="7" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson Apr 1971.">Move up the hill from the Trotter pillar to the right. After a large grey face two ramps appear going up to the right. Ascend slabs to the higher one and ascend 30 metres soloing the scrub or slabs to the foot of a wide crack in a corner overhanging to the left. Pretty worthless. 1. 20m. Layback up corner, cross left into main line and ascend corner to tree. Alternatively (and better) climb the layback just right of the main line (grade 16). 2. 15m. Ascend chimney to bush belay. 3. 33m. To the right up wide twin cracks past overhang to belay. 4. 32m. Continue easily to the the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="7" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="95m" name="Pourquoi" number="5." stars="*" id="8" fa="M.McHugh, R. McMahon, P. Jackson, May 1971.">A testpiece from way back. To the right of the Crack of Pork is a pinnacle. Start on the face to the right. 1. 15m. Up slab and thin corner crack to the ledge. 2. 35m. Move slightly left and up over bulge (originally aided) and continue up to overlap. Climb the face left of the main crack to a small ledge high on the left. 3. 23m. Continue up slab on obvious line of holds to belay in the Crack of Pork. 4. 23m. Continue to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="45m" name="The Pork Of Doom" number="6." stars="" id="9" fa="Robert McMahon M.McHugh May 1971">Revolting and potentially dangerous. The obvious gully on the opposite side of the great flake of the Crack of Pork. Up corner to tree, continue in right hand line.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="9" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Pigs Might Fly" number="7." stars="*" id="10" fa="A. Adams, G. Cooper, Jan 1991.">A pair of wings for the crux moves might be useful too. Start at the arête immediately right of the Pork of Doom. Climb the arête, up the thin face past 3 bolts and up an easier slab above past another bolt.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="10" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="42m" name="It Ain&apos;t Kosher" number="8." stars="***" id="11" fa="1st half: A. Adams, P. Steane, G. Cooper Feb 1987. 2nd half: D. Fife P.Cullen, Dec 88.">It probably ain't legal either! Arguably one of the best routes on Sow Spur. Harder if you are short, and easier if you are long. 15m left of Pearler, at the steep arête. Climb the crack, then the crux, then the arête, then the face above past a bolt. 2.5 Friend essential high up.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="11" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="55m" name="Pearler" number="9." stars="**" id="12" fa="M. McHugh, P. Jackson, R. McMahon May 1971.">A little gem that is a tad run-out in parts. Go right past steep section to prominent layback flake. 1. 15m. Up short wall to flake and up this to a ledge. 2. 33m. Up left ridge to bollard spike then easily up to overhangs. Left to chimney crack then up crack to belay where possible. 3. 7m. Up chimney to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="12" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="55m" name="Boaring" number="10." stars="" id="13" fa="D. Fife, N. Ward, Nov 1982.">Sparse pro but good. A few metres right of Pearler. 1. 45m. Up right to a flake stance and face moves to a slight dish crack. Left to flake system and up left to base of wide crack. Up flake crack then trend left to good holds. 2. 10m. Up right on slab with little protection.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="13" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="75m" name="Silk Purse" number="11." stars="**" id="14" fa="Garn Cooper, Sam Edwards (alt.), Jan 1995.">Ascends the steep slab roughly 7m right of Boaring. Had its missing bolts replaced in 2012, but some of the originals are now rusty and also need replacing. 1. 50m. Follow the bolts to the large ledge. Take some small wires or a cam for down low and a 0 quadcam for higher up. 2. 25m. Up the slab more easily to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="14" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Porked" number="12." stars="" id="15" fa="Al Adams Garn, Cooper, Dec 1986.">Nothing beats the smell of cooked bacon. 20m right of Boaring, below a slight line up a short convoluted wall. Climb the wall.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="15" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="60m" name="Pigs In Space" number="13." stars="" id="16" fa="M. Sands, D.Jenkins Jan 1989.">Not well protected. Start below a tree 12m left of Stylised. 1. 35m. Straight up to flake, up this then rightwards to horizontal break (crux). Easily up to belay on ledge. 2. 25m. Straight up the slab above the chockstone (crux), then up the crack on left of wall (obvious line on wall toproped at 22. No runners).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="16" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="65m" name="Stylised" number="14." stars="*" id="17" fa="L. Closs, J. Friend, R. McMahon, 1974.">Start 40m right of Boaring. Obvious crack line up middle of slabs 20m left of Durham. 1. 45m. Straight up crack past small roof to belay on huge boulder out left. 2. 20m. Move back right to crack, then up to roof and exit out right.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" guide.action="submit" guide.id="17" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="6m" name="Stylised Direct Finish" number="15." stars="" id="18" fa="D.Jenkins, M.Sands, R.Appel, R.Hyslop, Jan 1989.">Through the roof.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="18" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="57m" name="Dive Between The Whirling Blades" number="16." stars="***" id="19" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Dec 1986.">But don't get chopped to bits! Start off the same big ledge as Stylised and power up the slab between Stylised and Durham Direct. Kit yourself out with a swag of RP's then follow the thin crack 3m right of Stylised for 35m, until crack yields its last placement (#4 RP). Move right 1m, place another RP and climb the crux slab immediately left of the RH thin crack toward a small ledge. Step right carefully onto ledge and breathe a big sigh of relief. Continue up line directly to headwall and belay.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Durham Direct" number="17." stars="*" id="20" fa="P. Jackson, N. Duhig, Apr 1986.">An obvious thin line found directly below the big block at the end of the first pitch of Durham. 1. 25m. Up short wall to wide ledge. Up to another ledge and the obvious crack which gets progressively thinner. Follow this to belay on the overlap above the small banksia. 2. 25m. Continue up to the big block and climb the slab to its left. Continue up to the terrace.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="20" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="55m" name="Durham" number="18." stars="*" id="21" fa="Peter Jackson, M.McHugh Dec 1971.">A boomer of a line and good fun. Start 60 metres right of Boaring below left trending stepped roofs. 1. 30m. Up easily to horizontal crack. Layback and undercling left across this. Up thin corner (crux) then left again to hanging belay. 2. 25m. Move left, then up crack and slab to top.</climb>
  <climb id="58" name="Deliverance (aka Squeal Like a Pig)" stars="***" length="40m" grade="24" extra="12Þ" fa="Nick and Heather Hancock, Quinn Griggs Apr 2010." number="19.">One of the best, most interesting and well bolted slab climbs in the State. Start below a line of bolts leading up left to the most distinct white streak in the blank slab. Climb up leftwards over an overlap to join the streak. Make crux moves up, then left across it. Climb the runnel and then move right along a thin overlap, before climbing slightly left to finish. 12 bolts to DBB.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="21" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="85m" name="Black Pudding" number="20." stars="" id="22" fa="I.Lewis, Kim Carrigan Jan 1975.">Start 50m right of Durham at small corner on waterwashed wall. 1. 45m. Straight up corner to belay above small roof. 2. 40m. Continue to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="22" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Captain Goodvibes (Pig Of Steel)" number="21." stars="**" id="23" fa="B.Kennedy, et.al. Jan 1977.">A first class climb, the top section is runout. Start 10 metres right of Black Pudding. Move up undercling layback flake until crack vanishes. Head up to overlap passing several good wire placements not visible from the ground. Turn the overlap easily and run it out to the next horizontal. Continue in this manner until you run out of rope and reach the top. Well protected up to the overlap, but run out and scarey above. Two rap bolts exist some 20m left of the finish of this climb.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="23" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Slab Of Pork (aka My Fair Lady)" number="22." stars="" id="24" fa="I.Lewis, Kim Carrigan Jan 1975.">Start 5 metres right of the Pig of Steel. Up slab following intermittent thin crack to weakness in overlap at 30 metres. Surmount and continue to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="24" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Piggies" number="23." stars="" id="25" fa="C.(Ditto) Rathbone, Phil Bigg, Nov 1976.">About 40m right of Black Pudding up Sow Spur. Up the thin corner running through two small roofs on the horizon. Protection good on the hard sections though poorer on those easier. Pleasant tree belay on right of large blocks. Exit right.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="9" guide.action="submit" guide.id="25" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="65m" name="Oink" number="24." stars="" id="26" fa="G.Kowalik, R.Williams, F.Dutton Oct 1971.">Takes the slab to the right of the Piggies corner. Start Just near Piggies. 1. 35m. Follow a line of obvious holds up on to a system of ledges at about 8m. Move left for a few feet, then diagonally right around a smooth section of slab. At about 20m move right beneath a hanging corner, and climb onto a broken surfaced slab which overlies the smoother slabs on its left. Continue up to belay. 2. 30m. Directly to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="26" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="10m" name="Time &amp; Tide Waits For No Man" number="25." stars="**" id="27" fa="Nick Hancock Sep 2001.">Climbs the west face of the perched boulder on the very top of Sow Spur, via 3 glued stainless carrots. Throw rope down other side for a belay to back up a good thread on top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="28">Piglets</text>
  <text class="text" id="29">Two short but worthwhile climbs on a small cliff (named "Piglets") above Sow Spur. Traverse east from the very top of Sow Spur above 'Stylised' along to a little crag on the left, which looks about ten metres high from the base.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="This Little Piggy" number="26." stars="" id="30" fa="Alan Williams, Phil Robinson, 1 Aug 1999.">Left of an easy line in the middle of the cliff. Climb the wall and thin crack to belay back from the edge above an easy slab hidden from the bottom. Positive holds and good pro. A neat little route.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Pigtail Soup" number="27." stars="" id="31" fa="Alan Williams, Phil Robinson, 1 Aug 1999.">Twin cracks a few metres left of "This Little Piggy". Up right-hand crack before moving awkwardly left to a small sloping ledge next to left-hand crack. Follow this crack to the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="32">Lizard Rocks</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="33">In the gully between Mt. Amos and Mt. Dove.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="33" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Lizard" number="28." stars="" id="34" fa="I.Lewis, Peter Jackson, Aug 1972.">Towards the right hand end of a grey cracked wall below a big ledge. 1. 15m. Up the wall on big holds. 2. 10m. Move to the right end of the ledge and swing up onto arête (crux) to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" guide.action="submit" guide.id="34" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Gizzard" number="29." stars="" id="35" fa="L.Wood, Peter Jackson 1976.">To the right of centre is a big bay on the left of which is a very deep chimney which can be walked through. Climb up the front of the chimney to the top. Poor protection.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Blue Tongue" number="30." stars="" id="36" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Rob DeCesare, May 2006.">The widening hand crack left of centre of crag, presumably downhill from Melon.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="35" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Melon" number="31." stars="" id="37" fa="Doug Fife, Peter Jackson 1980.">Where the cliff starts to run back up the hill to the left of centre is a large smooth wall with a sloping powerful line blocked at the base by a small overhanging corner. Climb the face left and step right above the corner into the main crack line. Follow this to the roof. Step left and up (crux) to bottomless chimney finish. Abseil off tree.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="36" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="27m" name="Glucojel" number="32." stars="" id="38" fa="Marcel Jackson Jun 1994.">About 5m to the right of Melon is a smooth, steep wall with a crack reaching about 5m up. Climb this to its end, then stretch a long way right to the base of a second crack (crux). Lay up this until the cliff stops overhanging, then continue up the easy angled off-width.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="39">Across the valley to the west of Lizard Rocks is an obvious ampitheatre of overhanging streaked rock with slabs to the right. These are easily visible from Lizard Rocks and are about 300m below the cliffs of Mt. Amos. The following climbs are situated on the slabs.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="38" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Sternum" number="33." stars="" id="40" fa="Marcel &amp; Peter Jackson Jun 1994.">About 5m left of Spitoon is an interesting slab with a short easy angled corner at its base. Climb this and then continue up the many parallel ribs of aplite to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="39" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="50m" name="Spitoon" number="34." stars="" id="41" fa="Peter Jackson, N.Ward 1984.">Takes the groove of water polished aplite in the middle of the face.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" guide.action="submit" guide.id="40" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="48m" name="Necrotising Fasciitis" number="35." stars="" id="42" fa="Marcel &amp; Peter Jackson Jun 1994.">This is the black slab with vanishing aplite seam about 5m to the right of Spitoon. Pleasant and fairly easy slab climbing, though extremely runout at times.</climb>
  <text class="heading1" id="43">Windy Hill</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="44">This is the cliff just below the summit of Mt. Dove. It can be seen from Coles Bay. It has a North Westerly aspect and is often windy. To get there it is easiest to go via Sow Spur as there is a track of sorts this way. This takes about 50 minutes. The climbs are worthwhile, and arguably better than most of the Sow Spur routes.</text>
  <image noPrint="false" src="best windy hill.jpg" width="1000" id="45" legend="true" legendx="16" legendy="17" legendTitle="Windy Hill" height="588">
    <drawing>
      <path id="72060" points="19,353, 27,344, 36,289," d="M19,353C22.1999999999999962,349.4 25.763460155606346763460155606342,348.65520882595257 27,344C28.236539844393654236539844393658,339.34479117404743 32.4,311 36,289" linkedTo="47"/>
      <path id="70536" points="204,405, 214,364, 228,324, 233,282, 250,232,belay" d="M204,405C208,388.6 209.20437357721795,380.18523917688935 214,364C218.79562642278205,347.81476082311065 224.18100723798773,340.4819687623687 228,324C231.81899276201227,307.5180312376313 229.06518013992417,298.4547012330444 233,282C236.93481986007583,265.5452987669556 243.200000000000022,251.99999999999997252 250,232" linkedTo="48"/>
      <path id="11232" points="261,414, 257,347, 262,285, 281,240,belay" d="M261,414C259.400000000000034,387.200000000000052 256.8071335896811,371.87976693113848797669311385 257,347C257.1928664103189,322.12023306886161202330688615 257.72374189647263,304.064984044892750649840448928 262,285C266.27625810352737,265.935015955107259350159551072 273.400000000000034,258 281,240" linkedTo="49"/>
      <path id="61905" points="281,419, 279,361, 282,303, 300,272, 312,245,belay" d="M281,419C280.2,395.8 278.799888564893,384.2129264724106 279,361C279.200111435107,337.7870735275894 278.7071210314591,316.95553467619715 282,303C285.2928789685409,289.04446532380285 294.5702508013514,282.4975151173873 300,272C305.4297491986486,261.5024848826127 307.2,255.799999999999988 312,245" linkedTo="50"/>
      <path id="91502" points="339,429, 341,378, 334,356, 341,306, 346,253,belay" d="M339,429C339.8,408.6 341.63103640788484,387.2131315551187 341,378C340.36896359211516,368.7868684448813 334,365.2347171044922 334,356C334,346.7652828955078 338.66298590235573,326.0593710047801 341,306C343.33701409764427,285.9406289952199 344,274.2 346,253" linkedTo="51"/>
      <path id="12374" points="573,446, 592,378, 624,347, 651,260, 678,167, 713,106," d="M573,446C580.6,418.8 583.8386019581754,393.84271384589465 592,378C600.1613980418246,362.15728615410535 616.0300564619315,362.93988707613793988707613704 624,347C631.9699435380685,331.06011292386306011292386296 640.52980639489235298063948921,294.90064535035935 651,260C661.47019360510774701936051079,225.09935464964065 667.4939580587451,193.0956525637622309565256376226 678,167C688.5060419412549,140.9043474362377790434743623774 699,130.4 713,106" linkedTo="52"/>
      <path id="23776" points="708,518, 704,380, 732,341, 744,291,belay 756,240, 770,221, 798,206, 800,178,belay" d="M708,518C706.4,462.8 701.4196576910042,399.030024528844 704,380C706.5803423089958,360.969975471156 724.1274728884862,358.51637282311833 732,341C739.8725271115138,323.48362717688167 743.2195016976316,311.553121962368655312196236866 744,291C744.7804983023684,270.446878037631444687803763134 752.7130011333288,248.849612333345568496123333456 756,240C759.2869988666712,231.150387666654441503876666544 762.6625449524142,226.93984456233136 770,221C777.3374550475858,215.06015543766864 791.5752388780035,215.20882427486168 798,206C804.4247611219965,196.79117572513832 799.2,189.2 800,178" linkedTo="53"/>
      <path id="38895" points="781,538, 779,438, 763,349, 745,292," d="M781,538C780.2,498 782.4293118515645,474.0077744414275 779,438C775.5706881484355,401.9922255585725 768.4229369281802,372.286729162185452867291621855 763,349C757.5770630718198,325.713270837814557132708378145 744.2195016976316,312.553121962368655312196236866 745,292" linkedTo="54"/>
      <path id="28628" points="802,546,label 797,476, 811,448, 810,407, 844,359,belay 897,331, 946,242,label" d="M802,546C800,518 795.8548411701939,488.4695072578878 797,476C798.1451588298061,463.5304927421122 811.3323248688225,460.51757005898355 811,448C810.6676751311775,435.48242994101645 804.2967221294796,422.38156759019154 810,407C815.7032778705204,391.61843240980846 826.2802331102043,374.47933659338474 844,359C861.7197668897957,343.52066340661526 881.2440958051708,349.07294892936295 897,331C912.7559041948292,312.92705107063705 926.40000000000014,277.599999999999976 946,242" linkedTo="55"/>
      <path id="40157" points="" d=""/>
      <path id="88715" points="838,555, 827,491, 811,447," d="M838,555C833.6,529.4 831.5420907339345,509.168362935738216836293573823 827,491C822.4579092660655,472.831637064261883163706426177 811.3323248688225,459.51757005898355 811,447" linkedTo="56"/>
      <path id="93074" points="931,557, 911,482, 889,428, 873,346," d="M931,557C923,527 918.2207254002367,504.177942300727 911,482C903.7792745997633,459.822057699273 895.2765424363151,450.4634150352331 889,428C882.7234575636849,405.5365849647669 879.4,378.799999999999958 873,346" linkedTo="57"/>
      <path id="66587" points="844,360, 821,352, 822,328, 843,309, 853,269, 846,212, 838,186,label" d="M844,360C834.8,356.8 826.4433957259396,359.91766651045765 821,352C815.5566042740604,344.08233348954235 817.6236382928643,336.55379788212906 822,328C826.3763617071357,319.44620211787094 837.7311044142647,319.0278980502705 843,309C848.2688955857353,298.9721019497295 852.4901688536055,285.484540400089 853,269C853.5098311463945,252.51545959991103515459599911 847.9351301516859,222.70772017266216 846,212C844.0648698483141,201.29227982733784 841.2,196.4 838,186" linkedTo="56"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>47</climb>
      <climb>48</climb>
      <climb>49</climb>
      <climb>50</climb>
      <climb>51</climb>
      <climb>52</climb>
      <climb>53</climb>
      <climb>54</climb>
      <climb>55</climb>
      <climb>56</climb>
      <climb>57</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="43" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Feel The Pain - As Baxter&apos;s Mum Straps It On" number="36." stars="" id="46" fa="Andrew Bissett, Nick Hancock, Aug 2001.">You'll wish you were being chased around by a kinky friend when your hands feel the needle like granite crystals on this route. The first crack left of the arête (Out and Up) with a tree at about 1/3 height. Up easily to the sloping ledge at 3m. move right and then back left to turn the bulge and reach the tree. Follow the crack more easily to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="Out And Up" number="37." stars="" id="47" fa="Doug Fife, Noel Ward Apr 1981.">Not so sporty. Poorly protected with suspect holds, but a great game if you've the stomach for it. Start at the left hand arête of the small cliff at the grey band. Climb up to the arête and the obvious hold. Cross over onto right hand face and follow the line of holds until you can go up the chimney.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="45" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="30m" name="Swearin&apos; In Bavarian" number="38." stars="***" id="48" fa="NickHancock &amp; Kieran Lawton, Mar 2002.">Between Out and Up and Blockheads is an awesome wall, with an open groove trending slightly rightwards. A tricky start leads to easier climbing into a steep groove. Undercling right and up, to a thin move right into a runnel. 3 U-bolts, good wires and medium cams.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="46" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Blockheads" number="39." stars="" id="49" fa="Doug Fife, N.Ward, Apr 1981.">Move right from the above, past several lines and a large curving corner with a deep offwidth. There are some depressions and disconnected cracks in the face to the right, and then a prominent curving corner with a rough crack.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="47" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="25m" name="Himmel, Arsch Und Wolkenbruch" number="40." stars="" id="50" fa="G.Cooper, Peter Steane, Nov 1986.">Much better than it looks. Start 2m right of Blockheads. The dead straight apparent offwidth. Climb the crack to finish near Indigo.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="48" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="27m" name="Indigo" number="41." stars="" id="51" fa="N.Duhig, Peter Jackson, Apr 1986.">Sustained, strenuous and airy. The second crack right of Blockheads.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" guide.action="submit" guide.id="49" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="55m" name="Screw Gate Zebra" number="42." stars="" id="52" fa="Robert McMahon, M.McHugh, Peter Jackson 1970.">This line is a big diagonal starting just right of the turret. 1. 50m. Diagonally right up to the base of a wide crack. Continue up line to horizontal break (crux) and continue to the start of a ramp leading right. Belay at end. 2. 5m. Climb overhanging flake to the left and finish.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="50" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="65m" name="Mr. Damage" number="43." stars="" id="53" fa="Doug Fife, N.Ward, Feb 1982.">Entertaining. Crack on the left hand side of wall right of Screw Gate Zebra. 1. 45m. Offwidth but mainly face climbing, right at thin overhang to a good stance. Continue up right, then left under flake. Belay on flake. 2. 20m. Up and trend right to ledge. Continue across right under horizontal line then up small depression to large ledge.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="51" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="65m" name="Fine Line" number="44." stars="**" id="54" fa="Doug Fife, N.Ward, Feb 1982.">Don't leave without doing this gem. In the centre of the face are 2 cracks. This is the left one. 1. 45m. Climb blocks and crack to hole, continue up crack, face climb when crack closes. Belay at base of corner. 2. 20m. As for Mr Damage.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="52" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="70m" name="Enkeffalin" number="45." stars="" id="55" fa="Doug Fife, N.Ward, Apr 1981.">Takes wall right of Fine Line. Little protection. 1. 30m. Start as for Fine Line, go right below hole, then up face; right up ramp to belay. 2. 40m. Traverse right, then up slab.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="53" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="80m" name="Spasiba Bolshoi" number="46." stars="" id="56" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Mar 1986.">Runout. Has crux in common with Enkeffalin. The short crack a few metres right of Enkeffalin. 1. 30m. Up crack, then step right and up over flake to 4m depression in face. Step out left of depression then straight up to strong diagonal and traverse along this to belay. 2. 50m. Traverse left to surmount bulge to next diagonal ramp. Right along this and up steeper rock to a dead tree. Straight up the rock behind tree to belay.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="54" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="75m" name="Snus Pozjalujsta" number="47." stars="" id="57" fa="O.Nykvist, Pete Steane, Mar 1986.">A fine route. Start at the 4m corner crack which forms the left side of a large flake at the base of the right hand end of the cliff. 1. 30m. Zoom straight up the water streak, stepping left after the small overlap at about 20m for a short distance, to the obvious right slanting diagonal. 2. 45m. Climb the diagonal until a line of jugs heads out left. Along these and up the headwall. Alternatively a short crack can be climbed from the diagonal which eliminates the traverse.</climb>
</guide>