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changes.mady.by.user Ben Maddison

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Comment: Guide edited
Guide
<guide>
  <header id="1" name="Cloudy Bay" walk="1-1.25hrs" sun="Mostly PM" rock="Granito-dolerite" acknowledgement="By Ben Maddison" intro="This cliff was developed during 2016/17. It contains a high proportion of high quality routes, in a spectacular setting on South Bruny Island. On sunny afternoons you can see Pedra Branca and the Eddystone. The rock is generally good, hard, pockety granitic dolerite. The climbing is steep and pumpy at the Aviary, less so on the Southern Ocean Face, although here the routes have a big feel as the Southern Ocean bangs away in the zawn below. Because the crag sits on slabs 80+ meters above the sea, the rock does not suffer from the oceanic glaze that characterises many sea cliffs. It is also unaffected by tides and swell, although southerly and westerly winds can be a problem. The BoM’s MetEye function has a South Bruny station, which gives pretty reliable wind and rain forecasts. The routes are mainly single pitch, and you can get away with a single 60m rope on all sections of the crag. There are quite a few mixed routes that require a rack, but on the Aviary there are plenty of sports routes. Most of the fixed gear and lower-offs/rap stations are glued-in U bolts." history="" access="Take the Bruny Island ferry. The drive to Cloudy Bay takes about 50 minutes. Drive down the concrete ramp and along the beach at Cloudy Bay (4wd not needed – usually very hard sand. I once saw a Barina in there) to campground at Cloudy Corner. Drive clockwise around the perimeter track to park at start of track to East Cloudy Head, marked by tap next to water tank. Walk up the East Cloudy Head track, continuing past the flat area at 30 mins, up the hill and traversing the hillside (spectacular views of the Friars Islands) for a further 15 mins, through a patch of forest. The trail to the crag starts 15m after the forest ends and the track heads uphill again.The track start is marked by a blue tag on a bush on the RHS of the main track. Follow trampled trail marked by orange tapes and cairns, slanting down diagonally leftwards towards the ocean until (about 10-15mins in) you reach two large cairns on a rock slab on the RHS of the track. From here there are two main ways to access the crag. &lt;br/&gt;Access 1: Follow cairns/tapes directly towards sea from these cairns, down beside a slab, to a fixed handline that descends a gully that leads to the bottom of the crag. Follow cliffline rightwards (facing in) from bottom of gully to reach the LHS of the Aviary. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Access 2: from the cairns keep traversing the hillside on the footpad track for 5 mins, until you see a post , which marks the place where you drop down to a good terrace and anchors. Fix a rope (i.e. if you choose this access, you will need to bring a rap rope) and abseil down to the Aviary in the region of Birdbrain/Blackbird. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The cliff top is quite rubbly and unstable, not so much a problem when you are at the top, but very dangerous if there are people below. For this reason all routes have lower-offs/rap stations. If you use Access 1 you only need to bring a 60m rope. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;" camping="The campground at Cloudy Corner has water and two toilets. Its a great spot, and usually pretty quiet, and a good place to base yourself for a couple of days trip to Cloudy. " autonumber="true"/>
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  </gps>
  <text id="30" class="heading2">The Aviary</text>
  <text id="3" class="intro">Is an amphitheatre set above the slabs that roll 80+ metres into Cloudy Bay. Facing west and north, it is a sun trap, can be nice on a winters afternoon, and is quite sheltered from all but westerly and southerly winds. If its windy the routes on the left hand end are often sheltered. The Aviary has a heap of good quality routes, characterised by good rock, and quite unique climbing featuring steep flake and pocket sequences, punctuated with fingery crux sections. Most routes here are bolt equipped, although some classics such as Blackbird and Spirit Rising require gear. Routes are described left to right, and spread across the amphitheatre from the very recognisable Cloacca Crack on the left hand side, to Footnote, on the lower right hand end.</text>
  <climb id="2" stars="" extra="" number="1." name="Cloacca Crack" length="20m" grade="16" fa="G. Mortimer &amp; P. Mills March 2016">The black and evil corner at the left end of the Aviary. The name says it all.</climb>
  <climb id="5" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="2." name=" Birdbrain" length="25m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison &amp; B. Bull September 2016">Start: 3m R of CC. Steep start through overlap then up groove to tricky finish. 10 B and DBB</climb>
  <climb id="6" stars="***" extra="2Þ" number="3." name="Blackbird" length="25m" grade="20" fa="B. Maddison &amp; I. Crossland February 2016">Start: 2 m R of Birdbrain. Tricky start moves past two bolts, into cracks and flake (6/7 Rock), cruxy moves past two more bolts lead into corner (medium cams) and final rooflet (finger-size cam at lip) to DBB. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="7" stars="***" extra="" number="4." name="Desert Raven" length="25m" grade="23" fa="B. Maddison &amp; I. Crossland, February 2016 ">&lt;br/&gt;2m R of Blackbird. Great route with only 3 cruxes. Steep pockets and flakes past two cruxes and final hard move to DBB on ledge. Ignore the L of the two bolts on the final moves &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="8" stars="**" extra="" number="5." name="Crow" length="25m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison &amp; Ingrid Crossland September 2016">Start: 2 m R of Desert Raven. &lt;br/&gt; Enjoyable climbing on flakes and pockets with a fingery technical crux at 2/3 height. Up the pockets to a hard move R and up under roof. Turn roof on the L, and up to a laybacking finish up the black arête. DBB. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="9" stars="" extra="" number="6." name="Greg’s Crack" length="" grade="" fa="">The black crack R of Crow. Awaits first ascent.</climb>
  <climb id="10" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="7." name="Grouse" length="" grade="24" fa="B. Maddison &amp; I Crossland October 2016">Because it is. Start 2m R of GC.&lt;br/&gt;Up the steep and beautifully-pocketed wall and groove above to DBB.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="11" stars="*" extra="9Þ" number="8." name="Your Tern " length="25m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison &amp; Ingrid Crossland March 2016">Start. 5 m R of Grouse, at line of bolts with fixed hangers. &lt;br/&gt;Flakes lead up long grey scoop, turning roof on L. DBB belay. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="12" stars="*" extra="9Þ" number="9." name="Blood Eagle" length="20m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison/Brian Burfitt September 2016">Start. 2 m R of YT&lt;br/&gt;Good steep face climbing up the arête line. After bolt 7, either step L into groove for a couple of moves then back R on arête or continue straight up arête (22) to DBB. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="13" stars="**" extra="" number="10." name="Depth Charge" length="25m" grade="20" fa=" B. Maddison/I Crossland October 2016">Start: 3m R of Blood Eagle, at foot of grey corner capped by roof, with crack &amp; flakes on L and R walls. The crack line in L wall of corner. Up steep cracks through bulge with great gear (cams and med wires), turning roof on L, past 4 bolts to DBB.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="14" stars="***" extra="" number="11." name="Spirit Rising" length="25m" grade="19" fa="B. Maddison &amp; I. Crossland March 2016">Start 2m R of DC. Good moves, great rock and gear, including a #3 cam for pocket at 2/3 height.&lt;br/&gt; Up cracks and flakes on R wall of corner. Where the roof starts to steepen up at 3/4 height, step R onto a foothold to gain sloping ledge and delightful short corner to DBB. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="15" stars="***" extra="7Þ" number="12." name="Cheeky Monkey " length="18m" grade="20" fa="B. Maddison &amp; B. Bull June 2016">Funky climbing up pocketed arête 2m R of SR. 7B to lower off.</climb>
  <climb id="16" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="13." name="Wizard" length="15m" grade="21" fa=" B. Maddison &amp; B. Bull  June 2016">Weakness up centre of black face where cliff turns corner and runs down in the seawards direction to Footnote. 5B to lower off.</climb>
  <climb id="17" stars="*" extra="11Þ" number="14." name="Dispraxia" length="25m" grade="18" fa="B.Maddison/I. Crossland October 2016">Start 3m R of Wizard. EITHER up first corner of Midwinter MadnessM and step L at ledge into line, OR direct past 2 bolts (20) 1m L of MM. Nice climbing up steep groove line. 11 B to DBB</climb>
  <climb id="18" stars="**" extra="" number="15." name="Midwinter Madness" length="25m" grade="20" fa=" B. Maddison &amp; O. Delprado July 2016">Start 4m R of W, beneath shallow corner with crack in R wall. Take med wires and small-med cams. Up corner system, then groove past 2 B to DBB/lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="28" stars="**" extra="11Þ" number="16." name="Solstice Grooves" length="25" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison &amp; O. Delprado July 2016">Start 2m R of MM. Up starting cracks and bulges, into steep, technical groove past 11 bolts to DBB. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="20" stars="***" extra="8Þ" number="17." name="Peer Review" length="28m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison &amp; B. Bull July 2016">Start 3m R of SG, beneath corner and runnels. &lt;br/&gt;1. 15m. Up cracks past 8B to DBB. &lt;br/&gt;2. 13m. Up steep beautiful orange box groove to DBB. Great gear – medium Rocks and cams to 2.5. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="21" stars="***" extra="10Þ" number="18." name="Footnote" length="25m" grade="24" fa="B. Maddison May 2016">Start: Beneath the shallow bolted groove just L of the arête that marks the start of the Southern Ocean Face; and 3M R of Peer Review. Great route. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Contrary face and groove climbing up an elegant open book groove past 10 bolts to DBB.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;You can link across to Peer Review Pitch 2 from the top of this route.</climb>
  <text id="31" class="heading2">Southern Ocean Face</text>
  <text id="23" class="text">This area is steep and exposed, containing many strong natural lines on good rock. Excellent and demanding sport, trad and mixed routes. The inspiring position makes the routes here feel bigger than they actually are. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Access: Follow the bottom of Aviary cliffline across and down slabs. Southern Ocean Face begins at the point where the amphitheatre stops and turns right (facing in) i.e At Footnote. A fixed handline keeps you safe as you traverse the ledge to access the routes in the centre and right side of the SO Face. &lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <climb id="24" stars="***" extra="" number="19." name="Chapter 4" length="45m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison &amp; Ingrid Crossland, March 2016">Powerful climbing up a great line. Take a full rack with a fair bit of finger size gear for the first 20 m, a couple of smaller wires for the start of the groove, a sling or two and double 1-2.5 cams. &lt;br/&gt; Start: 1m R. of Footnote, beneath a finger crack and at a U bolt anchor&lt;br/&gt;1. Up the thin crack and groove on the right for 4 m, then step L into the finger crack. Great face and crack climbing in and around the crack. When the finger crack runs out step R into the hanging groove. Great moves, exposure and gear, passing a bolt. Follow line R around rooflet at top of groove and then take cracks direct to belay ledge on top. Descent: rap from rings down to Primavera rap point. Or rap down to Footnote. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="25" stars="***" extra="" number="20." name="Primavera" length="28m" grade="23" fa="Ben Maddison &amp; Ingrid Crossland January 2017">The line going up parallel to and R of Ch 4. Stellar!&lt;br/&gt;Start: 2m. 2m R of Ch 4, beside a big detached block, and at a belay bolt. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Up cracks with good gear to a step R at 15 m. Up increasingly steep ground past 12 bolts, to a final hard section to DBB. From here either lower/ rap the route, OR from belay step L and finish up final corner of Ch4, and descend as for that route. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="26" stars="**" extra="" number="21." name="One Billion Heart Beats " length="25m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison &amp; Ingrid Crossland October 2016">Hueco and flake in centre of face. Start 7 m R of Primavera along ledge, where the ledge kinks up, at U belay bolt and beneath hand crack. Take cams 1-2.5&lt;br/&gt;Up the excellent cracks for 18m and step R and up past bolts to steeper pocket and flake climbing. DBB. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="29" stars="*" extra="" number="22." name="The Turning of the Tide" length="25m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison &amp; Ingrid Crossland, February 2017">Very good climbing, but loses a star cos it steps L into One Billion Heart Beats for a couple of moves between bolts 5 &amp; 7&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Start: At belay bolt for OBHB. Route is the line of 11 bolts R of OBHB&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;A couple of hard moves get you up the shallow corner to the little roof. Follow line , stepping L after bolt 5, and back R at bolt 7. Great moves up the vertical rail above, to belay of OBHB.</climb>
  <climb id="27" stars="**" extra="" number="23." name="Jubila" length="" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison &amp; Ingrid Crossland January 2017">Excellent mixed route&lt;br/&gt;Start: Double rings at end of ledge&lt;br/&gt;Hard up past 3 rings to trad section. First natural gear is medium blue Offset nut on R of crack/flake). Up steep flakes and pockets (take 2 green cams) to steepening cruxy finish with 4 bolts. DBB&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
</guide>