Page History

<guide version="2">
  <header access="To get to Mad Monkeys, start by walking up towards Monkeys Bum (check out the map and description in the Monkey’s Bum section). From the flat area below Monkeys Bum the cliff is visible. At this point try not to let the apparent magnitude of the march dull your resolve. Twenty minutes of good wholesome quadriceps training will see you at the base of the cliff. Alternatively it is possible to mountain bike to within 200m of the cliff on dirt roads via Risdon Dam. See the Gunners Quoin guide for the map." acknowledgement="from previous work by Stefan Eberhard, originally published in Craglets." history="" intro="This hot little crag was developed by Vera Wong and Stefan Eberhard during spring 1991. There’s a half-hour slog to get there but hey, you’ll be warmed up for the steep and steamy cranking to follow. For dolerite the rock is uncharacteristically steep - often gently overhanging. Hours of patient hand drilling by the dynamic duo has given the crag a sport climbing feel. However the odd bit of natural gear is still required on some of the routes. The cliff has been known as “Possum Rock” or “Monkey’s Noggin” in the past. Stefan reckons “Mad Monkeys” has a better ring to it and since he and Vera did all the development work, that’s cool by me. Stefan also says “I’ve seen no other printed references to Monkey’s Noggin to precedent it”. Who gives a toss what it’s called, just get up there, clip and crank, flash or fly! The cliff has a pleasant sunny aspect so is well suited for winter climbing. Don’t choose a windy day though as it can be quite exposed. &lt;br/&gt; The four routes on the main face were completely re-equipped in 2009 (by Roger Parkyn and Jeremy Spong).  No natural gear is now required for these and you can lower off.  Together with King Ryobi this gives a good collection of &quot;sport&quot; routes." name="Mad Monkeys" rock="15m high broken dolerite, reasonably steep" sun="All day sun" walk="40 min uphill" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/>
  <image noPrint="false" src="madmonkeys.png" width="" id="2" height="942"/>
  <climb id="15" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="" name="Tank Jumper" length="20m" grade="25" fa="James Trainer Aug 2014">Start as for King Ryobi, then head left clipping the first bolt on Romeo is Bleeding, then up left and around the arete onto the headwall above. Lower off at top.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="13" stars="**" name="Romeo is Bleeding" length="20m" grade="24" extra="Þ" fa="Adam Donoghue Jan 2011">Start up the first 2 bolts of King Ryobi then veer left at the steep bit following the FH's. Takes a good line with fun climbing. Lower off at top.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="2524" length="20m" name="King Ryobi" number="" stars="**" id="3" fa="Nick Hancock Sep 2001">The line of U’s up the mega-bulge. Awesome! Fantastic cranking too. Follow the U's up direct through the bulge, at the top do the mantle then down climb to lower from last 2 bolts, that have fixed biners.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="11" length="15m" name="Red Nose" number="" stars="" id="4" fa="R.Eberhard Oct 1991">Corner.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length=" 15m" name="Pumpernickel" number="" stars="" id="5" fa="R.Eberhard, Oct 1991.">Face.</climb>
  <text id="14" class="text">The next 4 routes were re-equipped in 2009 by Roger Parkyn and Jeramie Spong. Natural gear is now not required for any of them and lower-offs exist to get down. The bolts shown on the topo are shown wrong.</text>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="21" length="20m" name="There’s a Cat in My Alleyway" number="" stars="**" id="6" fa="Vera Wong Oct 1991.">U's to the lower-off.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="20m" name="Give Me Convenience or Give me Death" number="" stars="*" id="7" fa="Stefan Eberhard Nov 1991.">Crux at the first bolt leads to a pumpy bulge before easing higher up.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="" name="The Etiquette of Violence" number="" stars="**" id="8" fa="Stefan Eberhard Nov 1991.">Pumpy and sustained - good fun.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="21" length="" name="True to Life" number="" stars="" id="9" fa="Vera Wong Nov 1991.">Not as good as the routes to the left but still worth a ping. After you climb above the last bolt head left into The Etiquette of Violence and finish up this.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length=" " name="My Life in the Bush of Ghosts" number="" stars="" id="10" fa="S.Eberhard Nov 1991.">Corner.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length=" " name="Assassin Bug" number="" stars="" id="11" fa="S.Eberhard Nov 1991.">2 bolts then tiny CDs.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24-26" length="7-20m" name="Goating Around" number="" stars="*" id="12" fa="E.Peacock Aug 1993. Re-bolted September 2014.">4 bolts. Go directly up through the overhang past 3 bolts, then head right to finish at the lower offs as for Walking Spanish. (Originally graded 26 but 24 if you take the logical approach slightly left, some might say 25).</climb>
  <climb id="16" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="" name="Walkling Spanish" length="12m" grade="25/26" fa="James Trainer September 2014">Start 1.5m to the right of Goating Around. Head up through steep, powerful bulge to finish on the same anchor and lower offs as Goating Around.</climb>
</guide>