Page History

<guide version="2"><header> 
  <header access="The landowner of the original access described below requests that climbers access the cliff up Handsome Caves Road, which is a right turn 1.2km from the start of the gravel, and about 0.75 km beyond house no. 658. He also owns the land crossed using this road, just before the crag, but is happy for climbers to access the cliff this way. The crag itself is on Crown Land, administered by Forestry Tasmania. To get there head up to New Norfolk and cross to the northern side of the Derwent River. Head up river and take the first Rright, followed by a Lleft. Follow this through the outer suburbs of New Norfolk to the T-junction: to get to the cliff turn Rright along Back River Road. The turn-off to the crag is about 2.75km along Back River Road from the T-junction. (Enter OriginalHandsome access,Cave noRd longerand allowedpark byon landowner-the Turngreen Rpatch aton the drivewayleft. toIf houseyou numbershave 658,a 6604x4 &amp;you 662can (thiskeep isdriving theon middleHandsome ofCave 3Rd dirtover tracks,some withrough aterrain sign(massive forditches Derwenthave Valleybeen Timbersmoothed Craft)over and2022, drivebut forit anotheris 1kmstill beforerough. reachingAt where the lockedtop gateof usedthe tofirst behill, onwhere the two left.tracks Aftermerge aagain, fewfollow kilometersthe ofroad ziggingto andthe zaggingleft, uppast a shack steep,on roughthe road,left whenand itkeep flattensdriving/hiking outuntil ayou bitget taketo a trackrecently whichbulldozed turnsarea offabove sharplywhich to the left.track Thenarrows cragto willbecome soonunsuitable befor visibledriving on(even thea right4WD). Park atThe oneold ofgate with the pulloverssign orthat side tracks taking care notsaid &quot;Bushwalker's Access to blockHandsome theCaves, road.Private TheProperty roadBoth is &quot;good funSides of Road&quot; inseems ato 2wdhave -been theremoved extrain clearancethese andrecent traction of a softroader makes the drive a bit more comfortable. Please take care onworks (2022). Park in a disturbed area to the side, so as to not block the road and don't treat it as a rally track - there are a couple of houses up here and we need to keep the locals onside. If you can't get your car up the road the walk up isn't too grim (takes about 30 minutes))." acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets." history="" intro="Unfortunately it seems like a locked gate is going back on the bottom of the road to Handsome Crag (as at 18/9/2011).  Please don't climb there until access has been negotiated.  Handsome Crag was first developed in the late eighties and early nineties but then received little attention until around 2010. With rebolting of the most of the sport routes to modern standards and the removal of the gate on the road it should receive more attention. The crag has very easy access (1 min from your car), and its north facing aspect makes it a warm spot, even in mid-winter - its probably the best winter crag around Hobart. Most of the climbs are identified by small painted initials at their base. The recently rebolted routes are fully equipped with U-bolts and lower-offs, while the older routes use a range of bolts (of varying quality); some &quot;U&quot;s, and a mix of large- and small-head carrots, sometimes on the same climb - take a a variety of bracket sizes with you. Over time hopefully all the carrots will get replaced." name="Handsome Crag" rock="Vertical to overhanging sandstone, mostly bolted climbs but a number need gear as well." sun="All day sun" walk="1 min" id="1"/><image noPrint="false" src="handsomeMap.png" width="" id="2"/><gps id="3"><point code="HAN000" description="Handsome Crag - Gratuitous Steel Insertion" easting="507271" height="470" northing="5267837" zone="55G"/></gps><text id="59" class="heading3">Orchid Corner Area</text><text class="text" id="4">Further left from the "main" part of the cliff are two climbs. From Hard and Fast go left up the descent track then left again along to a small cliff.</text><climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Orchid Corner" id="5" fa="John Domeney, May 1993.">The sloping corner crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Eat, Shit, Bolt" id="6" fa="John Domeney, Apr 1993.">The short hand crack. </climb><text id="60" class="heading3">Hard and Fast Area</text><climb extra="" grade="12" length="10m" name="Desert Haircut. &lt;br/&gt;From here follow the foot track up the hill. There are occasional pink tags along this track. At 15 minutes the track goes under Handsome Caves, with their honey combed rock formations, keep going up left up an old track up the ramp. This is relatively easy to follow if you stay observant and then look for cairns on the uphill side where they mark a divergence from the old track. The cairned track crosses some private land owned by Corey, who is fine with going that way and asks people to &quot;Leave everything as you find it&quot;. Please show some courtesy and respect for the area as maintaining good relations with landowners is key to future access. &lt;br/&gt;At the top of the cairned track you will arrive at the old access road. Here you will have to turn right and walk another 10 minutes to get to the crag (this also takes you past the access for the Stronghold - heading left takes you to the Weakhold; both of these areas are marked with cairns). Total walk from end of 4WD track is 40 mins" acknowledgement="Originally by Al Adams for Climbers Club of Tasmania. Updated by Roger Parkyn and published in Craglets." history="" intro="Handsome Crag was first developed in the late eighties and early nineties but then received little attention until around 2010 when the gate was off the road for a while. Unfortunately the easy access is closed again so this crag will probably languish. It's north facing aspect makes it a warm spot, even in mid-winter - its probably the best winter crag close to Hobart. Most of the climbs are identified by small painted initials at their base. The recently re-bolted routes are fully equipped with U-bolts and lower-offs (although in many cases the old bolts still need to removed).  The older routes use a range of bolts (of varying quality); some &quot;U&quot;s, and a mix of large- and small-head carrots, sometimes on the same climb - take a a variety of bracket sizes with you. Over time hopefully all the carrots will get removed and replaced with glue-ins." name="Handsome Crag" rock="Vertical to overhanging sandstone, mostly bolted climbs but a number need gear as well." sun="All day sun" walk="50-60  min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/>
  <text id="81" class="heading3">Crag Steward</text>
  <text id="82" class="text">Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (handsomecrag@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.</text>  
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    <point pid="4" latitude="-42.73307" longitude="147.07305" easting="505979" northing="5268823" zone="55G" code="HAN100" description="Handsome Cave Road parking"/> 
  </gps>  
  <text id="59" class="heading3">Orchid Corner Area</text>  
  <text class="text" id="4">Further left from the "main" part of the cliff are two climbs. From Hard and Fast go left up the descent track then left again along to a small cliff.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Orchid Corner" id="5" fa="John Domeney, May 1993.">The sloping corner crack.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Eat, Shit, Bolt" id="6" fa="John Domeney, Apr 1993.">The short hand crack.</climb>  
  <text id="60" class="heading3">Hard and Fast Area</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="10m" name="Desert Haircut" number="" stars="" id="7" fa="A. Adams, S. Stubbs, May 1988.">Start 20m left of Hard and Fast. Just after walking through a notch, is a short corner containing twin hand cracks and a lip at the top. Climb the cracks to a right-leading ramp.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="7m" name="Licken Lichen" number="" stars="" id="8" fa="M. Tidswell, H. Dodd, May 1988.">Looks pretty worthless. The short right facing corner 8m right of Desert Haircut that starts off a large block.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="18m" name="Hammerhead" number="" stars="" id="9" fa="Mick Berry, 1991.">Takes the staircase shaped crack left of Hard and Fast. Traverse left to the base of the finger crack, up this, then rightwards to the fixed wire on Hard and Fast. All natural gear (cams).</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="18m" name="Hard and Fast" stars="" id="10" fa="TR Pete Steane. FA G. Jensen, J. Hayden, Aug 1988." number="">Power up the crack in the overhanging wall which has a horizontal at half height. Good protection all the way and a fixed wire, makes this an excellent lead. Don't succumb to the temptation of a top-rope, as many do.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="18m" name="Suck the Kumara" number="" stars="" id="11" fa="Roger Parkyn, Jul 1989.">Ascend the gaping cleft on the overhanging wall R of Hard and Fast. Surmount the large blob at 2/3 height. Finish directly. This route is good fun and not as hideous as it may look. Honestly! Take some big friends as well as some wires.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="12m" name="Palpate the Banana" number="" stars="*" id="712" fa="AllanRoger AdamsParkyn, MayJan 19881991.">Start off the 20mblock Land ofclimb Hardthe andsteep Fast.wall Justright afterof walkingSuck throughthe aKumara. notch,The isbolt aclip shortis cornerbest containingfacilitated twinby handthe cracksuse andof a lipstick at the top. Climb the cracks to a R-leading ramp. </climb><climb extra="" grade="14" length="7m" name="Licken Lichen" number="" stars="" id="8" fa="N.Tidswell, May 1988.">Start 8m R of Desert Haircut. Looks pretty worthless. </climb><climb(plenty around). An excellent 2 and/or 2½ Friend in a pocket protects the climbing above. A second size 2 friend can be used to protect the final move if necessary.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2511" length="18m12m" name="HammerheadTora! Tora! Flora!" number="" stars="" id="913" fa="MickStephen BerryBunton, Sep 19911989.">Takes the staircase shaped crack L of Hard and Fast. Traverse L to the base of the finger crack, up this, then rightwards>Starts up the corner R of Palpate the Banana. Climb the awkward block and follow the corner to the fixedtop. wireQuite ona Hardpleasant and Fast. All natural gear (cams). </climb><climb route.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2317" length="18m12m" name="HardBlitz and FastSiege" starsnumber=" ** " id="10" fa="TR Pete Steane. FA Gavin Jensen, Aug 1988.">Power up the crack in the overhanging wall which has a horizontal at half height. Good protection all the way and a fixed wire, makes this an excellent lead. Don't succumb to the temptation of a top-rope, as many do. </climb><climb stars="" id="14" fa="Stephen Bunton, Sep 1989.">Starts as for Tora Tora Flora. From the top of the starting block, step R and climb the thin crack to the summit.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2010" length="18m20m" name="SuckGarden the KumaraParty" number="" stars="" id="1115" fa="Roger Parkyn, Jul 1989.">Ascend the gaping cleft on the overhanging wall R="W.Jensen, V. Thorrens,, Nov 1988.">Starts behind the first big black tree 15m to the right of Hard and Fast. SurmountClimb the chimney-crack largeto clitoris-likea featureledge at 2/3 height. Finish directly. This route is good fun and not as hideous as it may look. Honestly! Well; some have described it as "a cunt of a root" (sic). Take some big friends as well as some wires. </climb><climb 5m, then traverse 4m right through some vegetation, and climb up and left slightly into a shallow corner which has a tricky exit. This climb looks poxy and, to my knowledge, no-one has been stupid enough to do a second ascent.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2320" length="12m35m" name="PalpateSocial the BananaSecurity" number="" stars="*" id="1216" fa="Roger ParkynG. Jensen, H. Dodd, JanMay 19911988.">Start off the block and climb the steep wall R of Suck the Kumara. The bolt clip is best facilitated by the use of a stick (plenty around). An excellent 2 and/or 2½ Friend in a pocket protects the climbing above. A second size 2 friend can be used to protect the final move if necessary. </climb><climb>Climb the finger crack 5m left of Stiff Upper Lip which leads to a small ledge with a tree at about 7m. Continue past this and exit left to a big ledge. Move up to clip a bolt then traverse right to a large flake. Climb the hand-crack above this. Follow the crack system to the top using some pretty skinny wires. Needs a brush.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1120" length="12m30m" name="Tora!Stiff Tora!Upper Flora!Lip" number="" stars="" id="1317" fa="Stephen Bunton, Sep 1989.">Starts up the corner R of Palpate the Banana. Climb the awkward block and follow the corner to the top. Quite a pleasant route. </climb><climbS. Scott, M. Edwards, A. Herrington, Aug 1988.">Just left of Blinded by the Beacon is a shallow right-facing vegetated corner. Climb this to a small ledge and continue above to a block-filled easy corner. Move slightly right to clip a bolt and surmount the bulge above it. Climb the corner and flake above to finish.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1721" length="12m15m" name="Blitz SiegeBlinded by the Beacon" number="" stars="*" id="1418" fa="StephenRoger BuntonParkyn, SepJul 1989.">Starts as for Tora Tora Flora. From the top of the starting block, step R and climb the thin crack to the summit. </climb><climb>Start by bridging past a sandy cave past the U-bolt. A carrot protects face climbing to a cave at half-height. Clip a second U-bolt and/or the second carrot, and continue above, trending slightly leftwards before stepping right to finish. Belay or rap off the large tree.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1022" length="20m" name="Garden Party" number=""Dredge on an Edge" stars="" id="1519" fa="W.JensenR. Marshall, G. Jenson, NovMay 1988.">Starts behind the first big black tree 15m to the R of Hard and Fast. Climb the chimney-crack to a ledge at 5m, then traverse 4m R through some vegetation, and climb up and left slightly into a shallow corner which has a tricky exit. This climb looks poxy and, to my knowledge, no-one has been stupid enough to do a second ascent. </climb><climb number="">The start, 5m right of Blinded by the Beacon is almost always wet. Don't be put off as the climbing above is excellent and physical. The most popular method is to stick-clip the first bolt (with fixed hanger) and crank past the wet patch. There are two more hangered bolts above, but wires and friends are also needed. At the top move carefully leftwards to belay at the same tree as for Blinded by the Beacon.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2019" length="35m" name="SocialFear of SecurityFlying" number="" stars="*" id="1620" fa="GavinD. JensenFife, May 1988A.">Climb theAdams, fingerE crackPeacock, 5m L of Stiff Upper Lip which leads to a small ledge with a tree at about 7m. Continue past this and exit L to a big ledge. Move up to clip a bolt then traverse R to a large flake. Climb the hand-crack above this. Follow the crack system to the top using some pretty skinny wires. Needs a brush. </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Stiff Upper Lip" number="" stars="" id="17" fa="Stuart Scott, Aug 1988.">Just L of Blinded by the Beacon is a shallow right-facing vegetated corner. Climb this to a small ledge and continue above to a block-filled easy corner. Move slightly R  to clip a bolt and surmount the bulge above it. Climb the corner and flake above to finish. </climb><climb extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Blinded by the BeaconJun 1988.">This route ascends the orange corner on the steep wall above and right of Dredge on an Edge. Named in honour of its spaced protection, this route lacks popularity. Although undeniably scary the gear is adequate so give it a go if you're feeling bold. The climbing itself is excellent and the position stunning. Start 15m right of Dredge on an Edge, climb past a dirty sentry box to a ledge at 6m. Continue up the hand-crack above (the crack is currently bolted -? accidentally?) till it runs out then traverse left 3m to where the corner starts. The crux of the climb (grade 20!) is exiting onto the slab above the dihedral.</climb>  
  <climb id="67" name="Project" stars="" extra="" number="" starslength="*" idgrade="18" fa="Rogerbolted Parkyn, Jul 1989.">Start by bridging past a sandy cave past the U-bolt. A carrot protects face climbing to a cave at half-height. Clip a second U-bolt and/or the second carrot, and continue above, trending slightly leftwards before stepping R to finish. Belay or rap off the large tree. </climb><climbby ??">U-Bolts up headwall right of Fear of Flying. Closed.&lt;br/&gt;The bolts on the lower half of this route follow the hand crack of fear of flying and should be removed by the person who placed them.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2218" length="20m"20m" name="Broke Bored and Ignored" namenumber="Dredge on an Edge" stars=" * " id="1921" fa="RichardAllan MarshallAdams, May 1988E.">The startPeacock, 5mP. rightCullen, ofD. BlindedFife, by the Beacon is almost always wet. Don't be put off as the climbing above is excellent and physical. The most popular method is to stick-clip the first bolt (with fixed hanger) and crank past the wet patch. There are two more hangered bolts above, but wires and friends are also needed. At the top move carefully leftwards to belay at the same tree as for Blinded by the Beacon. </climb><climbJul 1988.">Grovel up the gully left of Space Master to belay at a horizontally growing gum tree on the left about 10m off the deck. Climb the crack and face to a small ledge. The brushed path continues to the top.</climb>  
  <text id="61" class="heading3">Space Master Buttress</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1923" length="35m25m" name="FearSpace of FlyingMaster" number="" stars="" id="2022" fa="Doug FifeW.Jensen, G. Jensen, JunDec 1988.">This>After routegrovelling ascendsup the orange dihedral ongully the steepclimbing wallbegins aboveby andtraversing Rthe ofprominent Dredgehorizontal onrightwards aninto Edge.the Namedmiddle inof honourthe ofsteep itsorange spacedwall. protection,Small thisfriends routeand lacksmedium popularity.sized Althoughwires undeniablyprotect scary the gearclimbing isup probablythe adequatethin socrack. giveMove itright aonto goeasier ifground you're feeling bold. The climbing itself is excellent andthen up, to reach the base of the positionarête stunning.directly Startabove 15mthe Rthin ofcrack Dredgeclimbed onbelow. anTwo Edge,bolts climbprotect pastthe aclimbing dirtyto sentrythe boxsummit. toThe afirst ledgeof atthem 6m.is Continue up the hand-crack above till it runs out then traverse L 3m to where the dihedral starts. The crux of the climb is exiting onto the slab above the dihedral. </climb><climb id="67" name="Project">Bolts up headwall R of Fear of Flying. Closed. </climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Broke Bored and Ignored" number="" stars="" id="21" fa="Allan Adams, Jul 1988.">Grovel up the gully L of Space Master to belay at a horizontally growing gum tree on the L about 10m off the deck. Climb the crack and face to a small ledge. The brushed path continues to the top. </climb><text id="61" class="heading3">Space Master Buttress</text><climb extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="Space Master" number="" stars="" id="22" fa="W.Jensen, Dec 1988.">After grovelling up the gully the climbing begins by traversing the prominent horizontal rightwards into the middle of the steep orange wall. Small friends and medium sized wires protect the climbing up the thin crack. Move R onto easier ground then up, to reach the base of the arête directly above the thin crack climbed below. Two bolts protect the climbing to the summit. The first of them is clipped blind. </climb><climbclipped blind.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="40m" name="Space Cadet" number="" stars="*" id="23" fa="Gavin Jensen, Dec 1988.">A captivating overhanging arête on the Space Master buttress. Start well to the right by an unpleasant scramble at the base of a large gully. Traverse leftwards to the climb passing one bolt before the arête itself is reached. Follow three bolts up the arête. After the fourth bolt it is possible to escape by traversing left across the horizontal to where Space Master starts. The continuation of the climb is not as hard as the arête below and is highly recommended. Continue a small distance further up then traverse right to clip a bolt below a bulge. Climb the bulge to a sloping ledge then finish up an easy jam crack.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Logarithm" id="24" fa="Doug Fife, May 1988." stars="" number="">This route involves abseiling from above to set up a top-rope - a bit of a chore. Anyway the route follows a brushed dihedral between the finishes of Space Master and Space Cadet, starting from the slopey ledge.</climb>  
  <text id="62" class="heading3">Enola Gay Buttress</text>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="2325" length="40m20m" name="SpaceJust Too CadetHip" number="1." stars="*" id="2325" fa="GavinEvan JensenPeacock, Dec 19881992-3.">A captivating overhanging arête on the Space Master buttress, the visual appeal of this line is enhanced by being bristling with bolts. Start well to the R by an unpleasant scramble at the base of a large gully. Traverse leftwards to the climb passing one bolt before the arête itself is reached. Follow three bolts up the arête. After the fourth bolt it is possible to escape by traversing L across the horizontal to where Space Master starts. The continuation of the climb is not as hard as the arête below and I would highly recommend it. Continue a small distance further up then traverse R to clip a bolt below a bulge. Climb the bulge to a sloping ledge then finish up an easy jam crack. </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Logarithm" id="24" fa="Doug Fife, May 1988.">I don't know anyone who's bothered to repeat this route as it involves abseiling from above to set up a top-rope. Probably not that much of a chore but not very inspiring, eh. Anyway the route follows a brushed dihedral between the finishes of Space Master and Space Cadet, starting from the slopey ledge. </climb><text id="62" class="heading3">Enola Gay Buttress</text><image>Crank up the steep arête (2 bolts with fixed hangers) to join Enola Gay at the end of the traverse. Continue up for a few metres then blast out rightwards through the roof (more bolts). Spectacular. The lower part, the arête, makes a good alternative start to Enola Gay (grade 22).</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="40m" name="Enola Gay" number="2." stars="**" id="26" fa="A. Adams, D. Fife (alt), Jun 1988.">The sky rocketing crack line that starts about 8m up - just the left end of mega-overhang.&lt;br/&gt;1. 20m 19. Start under the overhang ascending a tight groove with a single bolt. The traverse leftwards underneath the overhang is scantily protected but quite easy; take care on the suss rock though. The climbing hots up after you move around the arête and power up the overhanging wall, very spectacular and not as hard as it looks. Belay on the ledge beyond the guano. &lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 20. The straight crack (fingers to hands) leads to the summit. It gets pretty steamy towards the top.</climb>  
  <image id="77" src="assagai.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Enola Gay Buttress" legendx="10" legendy="10"><legend>25</legend><legend>26</legend><legend>27</legend><legend>28</legend><legend>72</legend><legend>29</legend><legend>30</legend><legend>31</legend><legend>32</legend></image><climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="20m" name="Just Too Hip" number="1." stars="" id="25" fa="Evan Peacock, 1992-3.">Crank up the steep arête (2 bolts with fixed hangers) to join Enola Gay at the end of the traverse. Continue up for a few metres then blast out rightwards through the roof (more bolts). Spectacular. The lower part, the arête, makes a good alternative start to Enola Gay (grade 22). </climb><climb extra="" grade="20" length="40m" name="Enola Gay" number="2" legendTitle="Enola Gay Buttress" legendx="10" legendy="10" height="1473"> 
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  <climb extra="8Þ" grade="22" length="35m" name="Raptor" number="3." stars="**" id="2627" fa="D.Fife, A.Adams, Jun 1988.">1. 20m 19. Start underneath the mega-overhang by ascending a tight groove with a single bolt. The traverse leftwards underneath the overhang is scantily protected but quite easy; take care on the suss rock though. The climbing hots up after you move around the arête and power up the overhanging wall, very spectacular and not as hard as it looks. Belay on the ledge beyond the bird shit.
2. 15m 20. The straight crack (fingers to hands) leads to the summit. It gets pretty steamy towards the top. </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="35m" name="Raptor" number="3." stars="*" id="27" fa="Stefan Eberhard, Mar 1991.">This is the RH way past the mega-overhang of Enola Gay.
1. 20m 22. Four bolts. Climb the corner under the roof (crux). Continue leftwards then go up the chimney to belay on a ledge. Take some gear for the chimney and the belay (medium sized friends).
2. 15m 21. Climb up the arête, clip the second bolt then traverse L. Pass two more bolts then traverse R to finish. </climb><climb"Stefan Eberhard, Mar 1991.">This is the right hand way past the mega-overhang of Enola Gay. &lt;br/&gt;1. 20m 22. Four bolts. Climb the corner under the roof (crux). Continue leftwards then go up the chimney to belay on a ledge. Take some gear for the chimney and the belay (medium sized friends). &lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 21. Climb up the arête, clip the second bolt then traverse left. Pass two more bolts then traverse right to finish.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="30m" name="Gorilla Monsoon" number="4." stars="**" id="28" fa="Stefan Eberhard, 1991. Rebolted 2010.">Climb the best of Raptor and then instead of moving left to finish the first pitch, go R and crank through the roof (the square looking one from below). Spectacular. All U bolts except one carrot just below the roof and one fixed hanger in the roof.</climb>  
  <climb id="72" stars="**" name="Afroboks" length="28m" grade="25" extra="15Þ" fa="Ben Wiessner &amp; Guy Abell, March 2011" number="5.">Start up Gorilla Monsoon, then move right along the ledge to link up with Assagai, then finish up the slab headwall to lower offs. Use long (and extra-long) slings at the traverse to minimise rope drag. A 60m rope just reaches the ground.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="2225" length="30m35m" name="Gorilla MonsoonAssagai" number="46." stars="**" id="2829" fa="StefanGavin EberhardJensen, Aug 19911988. Rebolted 2010.">Climb the best of Raptor and then instead of moving L to finish the first pitch, go R and crank through the roof (the square looking one from below). Spectacular. All U bolts except one carrot just below the roof and one FH in the roof.</climb><climb id="72" stars="**" name="Afroboks" length="28m" grade="25" extra="15Þ" fa="Ben Wiessner &amp; Guy Abell, March 2011" number="5.">Start up Gorilla Monsoon, then move right along the ledge to link up with Assagai, then finish up the slab headwall to lower offs. Use long (and extra-long) slings at the traverse to minimise rope drag. A 60m rope just reaches the ground.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="35m" name="Assagai" number="6." stars="*" id="29" fa="Gavin Jensen, Aug 1988. Rebolted 2010.">Classy hard face climbing which is well protected by U bolts. Start the climb from the tree of Leaky Leg bag. Climb the overhang by moving L and using a large hole finishing at the anchors on Gorilla Monsoon.</climb><climb extra="" grade="18" length="35m" name="Leaky Leg Bag" stars=" * " id="30" fa="Peter Steane, May 1988." number="7.">Poorly protected but easy climbing leads to a tree at about 10m. Climb the elegant dihedral above the tree. The finish is harder than it looks. </climb><climb extra="8Þ" grade="23" length="30m" name="Via Ferrata" number="8." stars="**" id="31" fa="Roger Parkyn, Nov 1989. Rebolted 2010.">This route starts by wandering up the face R of Leaky Leg bag. Follow the bolts up the arête R of Leaky Leg bag. There are eight U bolts in total. </climb><climb>Classy hard face climbing which is well protected by U bolts. Start the climb from the tree of Leaky Leg bag. Climb the overhang by moving left and using a large hole finishing at the anchors on Gorilla Monsoon.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="35m" name="Leaky Leg Bag" stars="" id="30" fa="Pete Steane, P. Cullen, May 1988." number="7.">Poorly protected but easy climbing leads to a tree at about 10m. Climb the elegant dihedral above the tree. The finish is harder than it looks.</climb>  
  <climb extra="8Þ" grade="23" length="30m" name="Via Ferrata" number="8." stars="**" id="31" fa="Roger Parkyn, Nov 1989. Rebolted 2010.">This route starts by wandering up the face right of Leaky Leg bag. Follow the bolts up the arête right of Leaky Leg bag.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="30m" name="Oodles of Noodles" number="9." stars="*" id="32" fa="Evan Peacock, 1992.">Go up Via Ferrata to the sixth bolt. Instead of going left continue up to the pocky wall right of Via Ferrata. Follow the line of 3 bolts with fixed hangers (the last is hard to clip). The crux is dynoing to a pocket before traversing into Via Ferrata to finish.</climb>  
  <text id="63" class="heading3">Electric Mischief Area</text>  
  <image id="78" src="electric.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Electric Mischief Area" legendx="330" legendy="10" height="781"> 
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      <climb>74</climb>  
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  <climb extra="Þ" grade="2420" length="30m" name="Oodles ofActus NoodlesReus" number="91." stars="*" id="3233" fa="Evan Peacock, 1992.">Go up Via Ferrata to the sixth bolt. Instead of going L continue up to the pocky wall R of Via Ferrata. Follow the line of 3 bolts with fixed hangers (the last is hard to clip). The crux is dynoing to a pocket before traversing into Via Ferrata to finish. </climb><text id="63" class="heading3">Electric Mischief Area</text><image id="78" src="electric.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Electric Mischief Area" legendx="330" legendy="10"><legend>74</legend><legend>35</legend><legend>36</legend><legend>76</legend></image><climb extra="Þ" grade="20" length="30m" name="Actus Reus" number="1." stars="" id="33" fa="Gavin Jensen, May 1988.">The climb begins 30m R of Leaky Leg bag. Scramble to the ledge at 5m then climb the diagonal finger crack which leads to a ledge. Climb past a bolt to another ledge. From here move up to clip the second (and final) bolt. From this bolt traverse R to the base of a groove which leads to the top. </climb><climb extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Biggus Dickus" id="34" fa="Gavin Jensen, May 1988." number="2.">Start near where Actus Reus starts but climb the large overhanging crack. </climb><climb id="74" name="Project" number="3.">Project (Guy Abell 2011) - rightwards up slab on left edge of the Electric Mischief overhang to hanging arête.</climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="15m" name="The Rock Police" number="4." stars="" id="35" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1992.">Start just L of Electric Mischief. Stick clip the first bolt then ape through the roof, to the same belay as Electric Mischief. </climb><climb extra="6ÞG. Jensen, H. Dodd, May 1988.">The climb begins 30m right of Leaky Leg bag. Scramble to the ledge at 5m then climb the diagonal finger crack which leads to a ledge. Climb past a bolt to another ledge. From here move up to clip the second (and final) bolt. From this bolt traverse right to the base of a groove which leads to the top.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Biggus Dickus" id="34" fa="Gavin Jensen, May 1988." number="2.">Start near where Actus Reus starts but climb the large overhanging crack.</climb>  
  <climb id="74" name="Masons II" number="3." stars="*" extra="4Þ" length="10m" grade="23" fa="Guy Abell, May 2013">Interesting climbing. Head rightwards up slab on left edge of the Electric Mischief overhang to hanging arête, up arête via a couple of big moves.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="15m" name="The Rock Police" number="4." stars="" id="35" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1992.">Start just left of Electric Mischief. Stick clip the first bolt then ape through the roof, to the same belay as Electric Mischief.</climb>  
  <climb extra="6Þ" grade="21" length="15m" name="Electric Mischief" number="5." stars="*" id="36" fa="Stefan Eberhard, Jun 1992. Rebolted 2011.">Stick clip the bolt. Crank the roof then follow the bolts to a DBB. Nice rock but some awkward moves.</climb>  
  <climb id="76" name="Davey Jones' Locker" length="15m" extra="4Þ" grade="23" fa="Jon Nermut Jul 2011." number="6.">Through the roof 5m right of Electric Mischief. Bouldery moves to the second bolt then fairly cruisey past another 2 bolts to a DBB.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="15m30m" name="ElectricPlumb MischiefIt" number="5." stars="*" id="3637" fa="Stefan Eberhard, Jun 1992. Rebolted 2011.">Stick clip the bolt. Crank the roof then follow the bolts to a DBB. Nice rock but some awkward moves.</climb><climb id="76" name="Davey Jones' Locker" length="15m" extra="4Þ" grade="23" fa="Jon Nermut Jul 2011." number="6.">Through the roof 5m right of Electric Mischief. Bouldery moves to the second bolt then fairly cruisey past another 2 bolts to a DBB.</climb><climbD. Fife, A. Adams, P. Steane, May 1988.">Take the steep grunty start up dark rock about 20m right of Actus Reus. Continue through the attractive grey wall via a finger crack, which leads to a ledge. Go left then up the face, left of a corner, to the top.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="30m" name="Sticky Business" number="" stars="" id="38" fa="Stefan Eberhard, Sep 1993.">Follow those big juicy eye-bolts up the red overhanging wall.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2123" length="30m" name="PlumbPump ItDummy" number="" stars="" id="3739" fa="Doug Fife, MayAug 1988.">Take the steep grunty start>The start which is quite tricky goes up darkthe rockcorner about 20m6m right of ActusPlumb ReusIt. Continue through the grey wall via a finger crack, which The best way to protect the start is to lean a log against the cliff and climb up it to place some friends. The corner leads to a ledge at about 5m. Move Goslightly Lright thenand upclimb the steep wall faceabove, L ofpassing a cornersingle, tohangered, thebolt top(crux). </climb><climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="30m" name="Sticky Business" number="" stars="" id="38" fa="Stefan Eberhard, Sep 1993.">Follow those big juicy eye-bolts up the red overhanging wall. </climb><climb extra="This is an excellent climb but is marred by an unclean finish on the final bulge above the crux.</climb>  
  <climb extra="6Þ" grade="2322" length="30m15m" name="PumpNo DummyU-Turns" number="" stars="*" id="3940" fa="DougAl Fife,Adams AugOct 1988.">The start which is quite tricky goes up the dihedral 6m R of Plumb It. The best way to protect the start is to lean a log against the cliff and climb up it to place some friends. The corner leads to a ledge at about 5m. Move slightly R and climb the steep wall above, passing a single, hangered, bolt1992. Direct finish Roger Parkyn Sep 1993. Rebolted 2011.">Good except for the start. Start up a fairly easy chossy black corner 10m right of Pump Dummy, then from the ledge go right and up through steeper ground on jugs. After the fourth bolt avoid the temptation of the ledge on the left and finish directly through the tricky bulge (crux). This6 isbolts anto excellent climb butDBB (which is marredout byof ansight unclean finish on the final bulge above the crux. </climb><climb extra="6Þ" grade="22" length="15m" name="No U-Turnsslab).</climb>  
  <climb id="75" name="Honour among thieves" stars="**" extra="6P" number="" starslength="18m" idgrade="4025" fa="AlH AdamsJackson OctAug 1992.2022 Direct(after finishpermission Rogerfrom ParkynJ SepNermut 1993. Rebolted 2011.">Good except forwho bolted the start. Start up a fairly easy chossy black corner 10m right of Pump Dummy, then from the ledge go right and up through steeper ground on jugs. After the fourth bolt avoid the temptation of the ledge on the left and finish directly through the tricky bulge (crux). 6 bolts to DBB (which is out of sight on the slab).</climb><climb id="75" name="Project">Project (Jon Nermut 2011) - line to the right of No U Turns.</climb><textline 2011)">Start on yellow wall 2m right of No-U-turns. Highly recommended and a soft touch at the grade if you find the bottom crux not too bad. Pre-clip bolt and launch into the bouldery start (crux), then follow more rings steeply up and left through the sustained hanging corners to rest out right, then exit onto slab via another classic bouldery finale (DBB).</climb>  
  <text id="64" class="heading3">Gratuitous Area</text><climbtext>  
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="15m" name="Rhino Eyes" number="" stars="" id="41" fa="Rolan Eberhard, Aug 1993.">Steamy and sustained climbing up the yellow wall Lleft of Gratuitous Steel Insertion. Three carrot bolts. From the first bolt climb up and into the corner, where the second bolt can be clipped. Some wires and cammers are required at the top. An OK climb, but needs a rebolt.</climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb id="69" name="Crème Fraiche" extra="4Þ" stars="*" length="12m" grade="23" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Feb 2011." number="">The line just left of Gratuitous GSISteel Insertion. Stick clip the first bolt. The grade depends on how hard you find the boulderly start. Finish at the GSI anchors.</climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="Þ5Þ" grade="18" length="12m" name="Gratuitous Steel Insertion" number="" stars="**" id="42" fa="Roger Parkyn, Jul 1990. Rebolted 2010.">Well protected, steep and classy climbing. This climb is deservedly popular (and I'm not biased either). Five U bolts + lower off. Start beside a thin straight gum tree. </climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Crag Rats" number="" stars="" id="43" fa="Vera Wong, Feb 1991.">Take the overhang just Rright of Gratuitous Steel Insertion then climb the crack to a large ledge. </climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Little Creatures" number="" stars="" id="44" fa="Vera Wong, Feb 1991.">Starts a further 10m Rright of Crag Rats. A hard overhanging start at the bottom is protected by a bolt. A crack then leads to a ledge. </climb><text.</climb>  
  <text id="79" class="heading3">Touchstone Buttress</text><imagetext>  
  <image id="80" src="touchstonet.jpg" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Touchstone Buttress" legendx="620" legendy="10"><legend>73</legend><legend>46</legend><legend>47</legend><legend>48</legend><legend>49</legend><legend>52</legend><legend>53</legend></image><climb" height="604"> 
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  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Timbertop" id="45" fa="Stephen Bunton, Oct 1989." number="1.">Start up the loose sandy cave. The crux is pulling through the overhang at the top of the cave. Finish easily up the cracks above. </climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb id="73" name="One Too Many" length="10m" grade="21" extra="3Þ" fa="D. Humphries, J. Nermut, Apr 2011." number="2.">Start 1m right of Timbertop at the clean face, which is just left of Touchstone Buttress. Bouldery moves lead past the bolts to the arete and anchors.</climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="2425" length="15m" name="Underhanded" number="3." stars="*" id="46" fa="Gavin Jensen, W. Jensen, May 1988. Rebolted 2010.">U bolts a couple of metersmetres Lleft of Touchstone lead through the overhang and onto the slab above. The crux is the rather tricky boulder problem (recently upgraded 2022) through the roof and getting established on the slab. Apparently it is a bit easier if you either use holds near Touchstoneon Touchstone (contrived), or move left along the overhang 1m to rock onto the slab (recommended). The slab at the top could do with some more traffic and/or cleaning.</climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Touchstone" number="4." stars="*" id="47" fa="Doug Fife"D. Fife, P. Steane, P. Cullen, Apr 1988.">A popular route, this climb follows the prominent hand crack a metre or two Lleft of the arête of the buttress. It is one of the better protected trad routes with decent rock. An overhang at about 6m slows most people down a bit. Use lower off on route to the Lleft. </climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="15m" name="This is My Kitchen" number="5." stars="*" id="48" fa="Vera Wong, Aug 1992. Rebolted 2010.">Start in the corner crack then follow the arête. U bolts to a lower off.</climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="18" length="12m" name="The Dog Killed the Video Star" number="6." stars="*" id="49" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1989. Rebolted 2010.">This is the smooth looking slab right of the arête Rright of Touchstone with U bolts to a lower off. Nice balancey moves lead left to the arête then up to the anchor.</climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="8" length="13m" name="Mojo's Mistake" number="7." stars="" id="50" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1989.">Go straight up on large holds, starting just Lleft of the big gully/dihedral. No pro. </climb><textclimb>  
  <text id="65" class="heading3">Mentzal>Melon Dreaming Buttress</text><climbtext>  
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="15m" name="Another Bloody Bodum Beaker Broken" number="8." stars="" id="51" fa="Evan Peacock.">This is the original on the overhanging wall. Use the crack to the Lleft of Mentzal (requires natural gear). </climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="15m" name="Mentzal as Anything" stars=" ** " id="52" fa="Simon Mentz, 1992. Rebolted 2010." number="9.">The left LHhand side of the overhanging face on nice black rock. U bolts to a lower off.</climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="27" length="15m" name="Melon Dreaming" number="10." stars="**" id="53" fa="Evan Peacock. Rebolted 2010.">The RHright hand line of U bolts on the overhang wall, finishing onto the arête. One of the overhangbest wall, finishing ontolines at the arêtecliff. (Grade 26 with alternative start, which either traverses in from Mentzal as Anything or starts immediately right of the arête). </climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="15m" name="Bang Goes the Budgie" number="" stars="" id="54" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1989.">A hard cranky start goes up the overhang at the bottom of the arête on the Rright of the major overhanging wall. Clip the bolt Rright of the arête before you get going. Climb to the Rright side of the arête then continue straight up. </climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="15m" name="Farmer Henry" number="" stars="" id="55" fa="HanutH. Dodd, G. Jensen, May 1988.">The next lump of rock Rright of Budgie. Start up a fist crack and then follow a flake system curving leftwards. Step around the arête to a ledge then continue up to a tree. A bit loose. </climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb id="68" stars="*" name="Southpaw" length="10m" grade="22" fa="Guy Abell, Jan 2011." extra="3Þ " number="">Packs a punch. Start 5 meters5m right of Farmer Henry, up the corner and face above to a fun finish. Three U bolts and lower off.</climb><textclimb>  
  <text id="66" class="heading3">Cold Change Buttress</text><texttext>  
  <text class="text" id="56">About 30m orright so R of Farmer Henry is a small isolated buttress.</text><climbtext>  
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Cold Cold Change" id="57" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1994.">Start in the small cave then follow the U bolts up the face to anchors under a dinner plate roof. </climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Sympull" number="" stars="" id="58" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1994.">Around the corner to the Rright of Cold. One U and gear up the groove and over the roof.</climb> 
</climb></guide>