Page History

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><text class="heading1<guide> 
  <text class="heading1" id="1">The Organ Pipes</text> Pipes
</text><text 
  <text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null." id="2">Climbing on Thethe Pipes is serious. Or at least it looks and feels that way! Occasional loose rock, complex route finding and a sense of exposure heightened by the kilometre drop down to sea level all contribute to a wilderness adventure. As Phil Robinson said in the 1981 edition:
    &quot; "In terms of mileage of routes, skinned knuckles, expenditure of effort and annual traffic, the Organ Pipes is the major focus of climbing activity in Tasmania.&quot;" 
This is still true today. YetAnd all this fun is justonly 20 minutes drive from the centre of the citytown. </text><text
text>  
     <text class="heading3">Rock
</text><text classid="text3" new="false">Rock</text>  
  <text      class="text" new="false" number="null.">A" id="4">The rock is comprised of a number of separate buttresses up to 120m high of vertical dolerite, typically in columns. The rock is very compact, though there is surface exfoliation in places due to bushfires. Large blocks that look precariously stacked are mostly just that. Be especially wary in spring, as frost action is instrumental in loosening previously solid blocks. Vegetation has crept back onto the less frequented routes andsince maythe needfires gentlein gardening1967. asRoute you go.
</text><text
        class="heading3">Aspect
</text><text
       descriptions are constantly being reviewed to take the regrowth and subsquent gardening on these routes into account.&lt;br/&gt;</text>  
  <text class="heading3" id="5">Aspect</text>  
  <text class="text" id="6">Facing east and sheltered from the prevailing westerlies, the cragPipes catchescatch most of the morning sun. but the altitudeHowever its elevation at 1000m means it can get cold very quickly when the sun disappears.
</text><text
text>  
   <text   class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Access from the bottom
</text><text class id="text7"
>Access From the Bottom</text>  
  <image newid="false20"
        number="null.">An access track to the bottom of the Pipes starts at the end of the small parking bay on the LH side of the road 2.7 km past the Springs. 
Parking can be a bit of a pain. The parking bay can accommodate five cars at a squeeze IF cars are parked perpendicular to the road but at weekends it fills up rapidly and you are left with the alternatives of creative parking on the verge - not recommended - or parking at the Springs or the Chalet (ample parking but a longer walk), or parking at the summit and walking down. There have also been some cases of theft from cars so be warned: don't leave anything valuable in your car that might attract thieves.
From the LH end of the parking bay, a definite track leads straight up the hill through a boulder field to meet the Organ Pipes Track (GPS MTW000).</text><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">Directly opposite this junction is a track that leads on uphill to Northern Buttress. At the base of Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010) the track to The Shipwreck forks L, while continuing R provides access to all the Far North and lower Northern Buttress crags. Amphitheatre Ledge, Rockaway Gully and The Columns can be accessed from The Shipwreck. 
</text><text
        class="text">The other crags L of Flange Buttress are best accessed directly from the Organ Pipes Track - see the individual crag sections for details.
</text><text
        class="heading3">Access from the top 
</text><text class="text"
        new="false"
        number="null.">From the wooden platform below the summit lookout (GPS MTW100) hop the rail, pick up a loosely defined (and sometimes cairned) track and head directly down till you reach the top of the cliff line (GPS MTW110). 
Immediately to your L (north) is Cossack Column with a rap station a couple of metres down on its left side (GPS MTW120), but further round to the left again, following  the curve of Northern Buttress, is the Amphitheatre rap station above Ethnic Cornflake (50m, marked by a blue dot, GPS MTW130). This is probably the easiest way to gain access to the bottom of the Exit/Entry gully, then walk down and round to the buttress of your choice.  
Alternatively, at the top to the R (south) is the bulky Double Column Central then the twin 'ears' of Split Column, with the rap station for the Ultrasound ledge just to its R (GPS MTW140). The Daedalus rap station is beside the Battlements Column further R again (50m GPS MTW150).  The rap station is in the gully to the R of the top of the column, past the distinctive jammed block/slab of Icarus (the bolts on top are for a project - ignore), off a yellow ledge about 10m down. Further details are included in the text for each Column or area. Landmarks south are more difficult to pick, follow your nose or ask a local if you can find one. Other rap stations are noted in the text. 
</text><text
         src="OrganPipesTrackApril2013_all_whitened.jpg" height="707" width="1000"> 
    <drawing> 
      <path id="86321" points="550.0,52.0, 565.0,35.0, 596.0,9.0, 624.0,6.0," d="M550.0,52.0C556.0,45.2 558.4,41.2 565.0,35.0C571.6,28.8 585.9,14.0 596.0,9.0C606.1,4.0 612.8,7.2 624.0,6.0" labelText="" arrow="true"/>  
      <rect id="75770" x="506" y="-1" width="78" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="red dot track"/>
    </drawing> 
  </image>  
  <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="8">An access track to the bottom of the Pipes starts at the end of the climbers' carpark, a small parking bay on the LH side of the road 2.7 km past the Springs. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Parking in the climbers' carpark can accommodate seven cars at a squeeze if cars are parked perpendicularly to the road and close together. However at weekends it fills up rapidly. If its full park further up the road at the Chalet and walk along south along the Organ Pipes track, which is a flat easy walk of less than 15 minutes to the Northern Buttress track junction. Alternatively park at the Springs or at the summit and walk down. There have been cases of theft from cars from all the parking areas so it is advisable not to leave items of value in your car.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;From the LH end of the parking bay, a definite track leads straight up the hill through a boulder field to intersect with the Organ Pipes Track (GPS MTW000). From this track junction, it is possible to access the base of all routes on the Organ Pipes.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;For access to routes located between Broken Buttress and Flange Buttress, walk L along the Organ Pipes Track and use the relevant signed 'feeder' tracks to access the base of the individual buttresses. Please use only the signed tracks which have been formalised and signed by the Wellington Park Trust. See individual buttress sections in the text for details.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The track directly opposite the Organ Pipes track junction (GPS MTW000) leads on uphill. This is the Northern Buttress feeder track and it provides access to the base of routes between the Columns and the Far North. The track meets the base of cliff at Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010) where it forks. The L fork to the Shipwreck provides access to the Columns, Amphitheatre Ledge, Rockaway Gully and the Northern Buttress - Shady side. Taking the R fork provides access to Northern Buttress - Lower Cliff, Upper Cliff and the Far North.</text>  
  <text class="heading3" id="11">Access From the Top</text>  
  <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="12">At the summit, locate the start of the climber's track down to the Organ Pipes just to the right (south) of the main lookout shelter (GPS MTW100). This is signposted as "Climbers Advised Only Past This Point ... The Amphitheatre". Head down to pick up the pad, which is well marked with triangle orange markers and winds its way down to the top of the Columns near a patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110). Note that the Trust has asked that climbers don't hop over the fence on the viewing platforms as we have done in the past but stick to the main marked track starting at the sign in order to reduce erosion.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Walk right as viewed looking towards Hobart along the edge of the cliff line to gain access to climbs on Double, Split, Battlements and Cairn Column. Detailed information on top down access for the Columns is included in the body of the text. Continue to walk right to access sections of the crag further right of the Columns such as Central Buttress (Circus Wall &amp; the Arena), Zoloft Wall and Teardrop Gully. Access down to these can be difficult to pick out but can be found by consulting the relevant section in the body of the text. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Walk left of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) to access climbs on Cossack Column. Further left of Cossack Column and part way down the Ampitheatre track is the red dot track turn off that leads north then descends to DNA buttress, then descends via Upper reaches buttrress to Johnson's Knob. Also left of Cossack but following the curve of the cliff line is the Amphitheatre track and a rap station that descends Ethnic Cornflake to the base of the cliff (marked by a blue dot, GPS MTW130). Further left and downhill is the top of Exit/Entry, a non-trivial scramble to the base of the cliff.</text>  
  <text class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Climbing Info
</text><text class id="text13"
>Climbing Info</text>  
  <text  class="text" new="false"
        number="null." id="14">Over 335400 routes have been recorded so far on the Organ Pipes proper. The majority are trad climbing but there is an increasing number of bolted walls and arêtes. Routes look serious and intimidating, but the stepped nature of the cliff line generally allows rest stances between difficulties. 
</text><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The The climbing is typically a mixture of face holds, jugs, and jams with only a few routes requiring use involvingof pure crack techniquestechnique. Dolerite friction allows the feet to be placed almost anywhere on small edges and smears. HavingThere saidare that,a theresmall arenumber fewof quality easier climbs, many of which have been resurrected from the forest regrowth and most of these are steep and physical. Slabs or gentle walls are a rarity, Blue Meridian (17)pitch one) on Great Tier being one of the few exceptions. Taping up For the trad climber, taping of hands is neither wimpy nor a demonstration of poor technique. 
</text><text
        Indeed it might stave off the need for a blood transfusion.&lt;br/&gt;</text>  
  <text class="heading3">Gear
</text><text" id="16">Gear</text>  
  <text class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">A standard number="null." id="17">Dolerite eats cams. A set of wires and a double rack of cams (with a couple of big ones for off widths - yum), hexes (yes we still use them here), wires, stoppers and RPs is usually sufficient. Twin or half ropes (50m minimum) from BD #0.3 to #3, including a #4 is usually sufficient. Some routes require extra helpings of certain sizes or wires, including very small or very large cams - this is usually noted in the route description though. Double (half) ropes are the standard on the multi-pitch trad climbs, particularly as many of the abseils are usually thatto 50 - 60m long. BoltDouble bolt rap stations are now common and their locationlocations isare indicated in the climbing descriptions. Hangers are not generally required but there are still some carrots around - treat these with caution as they may have been there for somemany years. 
</text><text
text>  
  <text    class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">Descriptions generally flow from R to L - North to South: areas such as gullies that do not follow this flow are noted in the descriptions. 
</text>
<gps" id="18">Routes are described from L to R starting with the buttresses on the southern end closest to the Springs and working their way to the northern end nearest the Chalet.</text>  
  <gps new="true" id="19"> 
    <point code="MTW000" description="Junction of climbers track with  new="true"><point code="MTW000"
    Organ Pipes track" easting="519885" height="0" northing="5250836" zone="55G" latitude="-42.89482" longitude="147.24355" pid="34"/>  
    <point code="MTW010"   description="JunctionBase of climbers track with Organ Pipes track"
            Northern Buttress" easting="519885519764" height="0" northing="52508365250829"
 zone="55G"           zone="55G"></point><point code="MTW010"
  latitude="-42.89489" longitude="147.24207" pid="35"/>  
         <point code="MTW020" description="Base of Northern ButtressThe Shipwreck" easting="519764519740"
 height="0" northing="5250779"          height="0" northing="5250829" zone="55G"></point><point
  zone="55G" latitude="-42.89534" longitude="147.24177" pid="36"/>  
    <point      code="MTW020MTW030" description="The ShipwreckStart of Flange Buttress track" easting="519740519849"
 height="0" northing="5250698"          height="0" northing="5250779" zone="55G"></point><point
            code="MTW030zone="55G" latitude="-42.89607" longitude="147.24311" pid="37"/>  
    <point code="MTW040" description="Start of FlangeCentral Buttress track"
            easting="519849" height="0" northing="5250698"
           519827" height="0" northing="5250667" zone="55G"></point><point codelatitude="MTW040-42.89635"
 longitude="147.24284" pid="38"/>  
       <point code="MTW070" description="Start of Central Buttress track"
           Access to Bulging Buttress" easting="519827519753" height="0" northing="52506675250466"
            zone="55G"></point><point codelatitude="MTW070-42.89816"
 longitude="147.24194" pid="39"/>  
    <point    descriptioncode="Access to Bulging ButtressMTW080" eastingdescription="519753"
 Junction of Organ Pipes Track and Sawmill    Track" easting="519735" height="0" northing="52504665250377" zone="55G"></point><point
      latitude="-42.89896" longitude="147.24173" pid="40"/>  
      <point code="MTW100" description="Summit Lookout" easting="519452"
            easting="519452" height="0" northing="5250753" zone="55G"></point><point
            code="MTW110"
            description="Bottom of track from summit, above the Columns"
            latitude="-42.89558" longitude="147.23825" pid="41"/>  
    <point code="MTW110" description="Top of Columns cliff line near snow gum patch" easting="519663" height="0" northing="5250757"
            zone="55G"></point><point codelatitude="MTW120-42.89554"
 longitude="147.24083" pid="42"/>  
       <point code="MTW120" description="Cossack Column rap station" easting="519669"
            height="0" northing="5250800" zone="55G"></point><point
      latitude="-42.89515" longitude="147.24090" pid="43"/>  
      <point code="MTW130" description="Amphitheatre rap station"
            easting="519676" height="0" northing="5250831"
            zone="55G"></point><point codelatitude="MTW140-42.89487"
 longitude="147.24099" pid="44"/>  
    <point code="MTW140"   description="Split Column rap station" easting="519683"
 height="0" northing="5250760"          height="0" northing="5250760" zone="55G"></point><point
  zone="55G" latitude="-42.89551" longitude="147.24108" pid="45"/>  
    <point      code="MTW150" description="Daedalus rap station"
            easting="519698" height="0" northing="5250749"
 zone="55G"           zone="55G"></point><point code="MTW160"
  latitude="-42.89561" longitude="147.24126" pid="46"/>  
    <point      code="MTW160" description="Early Bird bolts" easting="519667" height="0"
            northing="5250818" zone="55G"></point><point codelatitude="MTW170-42.89499"
 longitude="147.24088" pid="47"/>  
       <point code="MTW170" description="Berts Fear abseil " easting="519713" height="0"
            northing="5250690" zone="55G"></point><point codelatitude="MTW180-42.89614"
 longitude="147.24145" pid="48"/>  
    <point    descriptioncode="Top of Teardrop GullyMTW180" eastingdescription="519698"
            Top of Teardrop Gully" easting="519698" height="0" northing="5250583" zone="55G"></point><point
      latitude="-42.89711" longitude="147.24127" pid="49"/>  
      <point code="MTW080MTW190"
 description="Top of Fools Couloir (SW)"       description="Junction of Organ Pipes Track and Sawmill Track"
            easting="519735" height="0" northing="5250377" zone="55G"></point></gps>easting="519492" height="0" northing="5250515" zone="55G" latitude="-42.89772" longitude="147.23875" pid="50"/> 
  </gps>  
  <image id="21" src="AllOrganPipesLtoR.jpg" height="645" width="1000"/> 
</guide>