Page History

<guide 

guidestars="

**" 

pagesize="

200"

>

  <header 

id="

304"

name="

Bicheno" 

walk="

5-10 mins"

 sun="Mostly 

morning" rock="Granite - Slab to Overhung" intro="The bouldering in Bicheno is located on coastal boulders. The boulders can be found at the Blowhole and run north for 300m to a large block with more at Peggys Point. The problems here, although limited in extent, are some of the best in the state. The rock is funky granite that is quite different from the rock at Coles Bay. Generally the rock is clean, except for barnacles. 

  The majority of problems depend on a low tide and swell. See the Mercury or http://www.ntf.flinders.edu.au/TEXT/TIDES/TIDES/tas.html for tide predictions.

  The weather in winter here is amongst the best in the state, with lots of warm sunny days, which makes Bicheno a good escape from Hobart. In summer you

've got the sea right next to the bouldering to cool off in.

" access="Bicheno is on the east coast of Tasmania, about 2 and a half hours from Hobart or Launceston. It is about 35 minutes drive north of Coles Bay." camping="There are plenty of campgrounds, motels, shops and takeaways in town.

 "/

>
  

<image src="bichenomap.jpg" width="800"

 id="4" height="748"/>
  

<gps new="true" id="5">
    <point code="BIC000" description="Bicheno - The Block" easting="608706" height="0" northing="5363100" zone="55G" latitude="-41.87655" longitude="148.31005" pid="0"/>
  </gps>
  <text class="heading2" id="6">The Blowhole Area</

text>
  

<text 

class="text" id="7">There are some great problems on the freestanding boulders and walls around the blowhole. Follow the signs off the main road to get to the the parking area for the Blowhole, then walk 50m out to the obvious block.

</

text>
  

<text 

class="heading3" id="8">Blowhole Boulder</

text>
  

<text 

class="text" id="9">There have been a few problems done here on the boulder next to the Blowhole.</

text>
  <image 

src="Bichenoblow1.jpg" id="

10" height="275"/>
  <problem extra="       " grade="V?"

name="       " number="       "

stars="       " id="11">Some easier lines have been done on the slabby side of the boulder</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="1."

stars="       " id="12"/>
  

<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8"

name="Blow Job" number="2."

stars="***" id="13">Sit start on small crimps up slightly overhanging face. Excellent problem</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="3."

stars="       " id="14"/>
  <text 

class="heading3" id="15">Whale Boulder</

text>
  

<text 

class="text" id="16">This is the south facing wall about 40m south of the Blowhole.</

text>
  <image 

id="329" src="

Bicheno Whale boulder.jpg"

height="

383" 

width="

800"

 legend="true" legendx="8" legendy="285">
    <drawing>
      <path 

id="

77339" 

points="

76.0,223.0, 42.0,186.0, 12.0,133.0," d="M76.0,223.0C62.4,208.2 53.6,202.4 42.0,186.0C30.4,169.6 24.0,154.2 12.0,133.0" linkedTo="18"/>
      <path id="3717" points="87.0,221.0, 97.0,101.0," d="M87.0,221.0C91.0,173.0 93.0,149.0 97.0,101.0" linkedTo="19"/>
      <path id="39527" points="215.0,236.0, 242.0,120.0, 265.0,82.0," d="M215.0,236.0C225.8,189.6 236.5,136.9 242.0,120.0C247.5,103.1 255.8,97.2 265.0,82.0" linkedTo="20"/>
      <path id="61424" points="382.0,236.0, 396.0,168.0, 381.0,95.0," d="M382.0,236.0C387.6,208.8 396.2,195.8 396.0,168.0C395.8,140.2 387.0,124.2 381.0,95.0" linkedTo="328"/>
      <path id="62687" points="510.0,247.0, 490.0,161.0, 515.0,95.0," d="M510.0,247.0C502.0,212.6 489.1,189.2 490.0,161.0C490.9,132.8 505.0,121.4 515.0,95.0" linkedTo="21"/>
      <path id="48312" points="679.0,289.0, 712.0,181.0, 714.0,127.0," d="M679.0,289.0C692.2,245.8 707.4,202.1 712.0,181.0C716.6,159.9 713.2,148.6 714.0,127.0" linkedTo="22"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>18</climb>
      <climb>19</climb>
      <climb>20</climb>
      <climb>328</climb>
      <climb>21</climb>
      <climb>22</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Sperm Whale" number="1." stars="*" id="18">Sitstart on low hold hit arete and up</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V10?" name="       " number="1a." stars="*" id="19">Project. Same start as no 1, blast high and right then up.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2/3" name="Minke Whale" number="2." stars="*" id="20">Flakes</problem>
  <problem id="328" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="3" name="NarWhale" length="" grade="v1" fa="">Undercling and up</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Blue Whale" number="4" stars="*" id="21" length="" fa="">Flakes to high topout. SDS is project</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Humpback Arete" number="5." stars="**" id="22" length="" fa="">Classic steep arete to slopey topout</problem>
  <text id="318" class="heading3">Old Man Boulder</text>
  <text class="text" id="23">This block is directly across from the Whale boulder:</text>
  <image src="Bichenoblow10.jpg" id="24" height="189"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="1." stars="       " id="25">Sitstart at flake and up groove</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="       " number="2." stars="       " id="26">Just left of arete, pull up through pockets.</problem>
  <text class="text" id="27">On the back of the same block:</text>
  <image src="Bichenoblow11.jpg" id="28" height="328"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="       " number="1." stars="       " id="29">Up nice flake/crack</problem>
  <text id="319" class="heading3">Warm Up Boulder</text>
  <text class="text" id="30">Across from the previous problem:</text>
  <image id="325" src="Bicheno - Warmup Boulder.jpg" height="342" legend="true" legendx="3" legendy="-1" width="600" legendTitle="" legendFooter="">
    <drawing>
      <path id="72474" points="" d="" linkedTo="29"/>
      <path id="96284" points="" d="" linkedTo="29"/>
      <path id="29199" points="139.0,226.0, 123.0,173.0, 118.0,118.0," d="M139.0,226.0C132.6,204.8 127.2,194.7 123.0,173.0C118.8,151.3 120.0,140.0 118.0,118.0" linkedTo="32"/>
      <path id="88404" points="240.0,219.0," linkedTo="33" d="M240.0,219.0"/>
      <path id="75542" points="286.0,215.0," d="M286.0,215.0"/>
      <path id="22091" points="282.0,214.0," d="M282.0,214.0"/>
      <path id="6168" points="287.0,214.0," d="M287.0,214.0"/>
      <path id="64627" points="286.0,213.0," d="M286.0,213.0"/>
      <path id="28353" points="288.0,212.0, 297.0,181.0, 298.0,134.0," d="M288.0,212.0C291.6,199.6 295.4,193.8 297.0,181.0C298.6,168.2 297.6,152.8 298.0,134.0" linkedTo="34"/>
      <path id="64558" points="" d=""/>
      <path id="74664" points="450.0,213.0, 464.0,110.0," d="M450.0,213.0C455.6,171.8 458.4,151.2 464.0,110.0" linkedTo="320"/>
      <path id="10649" points="501.0,215.0," d="M501.0,215.0"/>
      <path id="23976" points="506.0,190.0, 514.0,110.0," d="M506.0,190.0C509.2,158.0 510.8,142.0 514.0,110.0" linkedTo="321"/>
      <path id="65137" points="531.0,216.0, 545.0,128.0," d="M531.0,216.0C536.6,180.8 539.4,163.2 545.0,128.0" linkedTo="322"/>
      <path id="21634" points="226.0,216.0, 225.0,105.0," d="M226.0,216.0C225.6,171.6 225.4,149.4 225.0,105.0" linkedTo="33"/>
    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb/>
      <climb>32</climb>
      <climb>33</climb>
      <climb>34</climb>
      <climb>320</climb>
      <climb>321</climb>
      <climb>322</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="       Juggy Face" number="1." stars="" id="32" length="" fa="">Up juggy face</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="  Quartz Jugs     " number="2." stars="" id="33" length="" fa="">Up quartz jugs</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="       Quartz Arete" number="3." stars="*" id="34" length="" fa="">Up steep quartz arete</problem>
  <problem id="320" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="4" name="Bulge" length="" grade="v0" fa="">Layback off the bulge, pull up through the ridge.</problem>
  <problem id="321" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="5" name="Layback" length="" grade="v0" fa="">Layback on the crack.</problem>
  <problem id="322" stars="*" extra="SDS" number="6" name="Arete" length="" grade="v1" fa="">One handed start off the round arête hold, up through jugs. Can be campused for an extra grade.</problem>
  <problem id="323" stars="*" extra="SDS" number="7" name="Ironing Board" length="" grade="v2" fa="">Starts on the large horizontal overhanging flake. Start hanging underneath, work your way around and up to top out.</problem>
  <text class="heading3" id="35">Blowhole Walls</text>
  <text class="text" id="36">There are some great vertical and slightly overhanging square cut walls below and immediately to the south of the Blowhole. Most of these problems depend on a low tide and swell.</text>
  <image new="false" number="null." src="BackOfWhaleSmallArrows.jpg" width="" id="37" height="245">null</image>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="" id="38">Style up the right side of the arete. Sitstart looks hard - V8?</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="39">Step onto the wall and its done.</problem>
  <image src="Bichenoblow3.jpg" id="40" height="227"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="       " number="1." stars="*" id="41">Up from break to small pockets</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="       " number="2." stars="*" id="42">Up from break</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="       " number="3." stars="       " id="43">Easy slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="       " number="4." stars="       " id="44">Easy slab</problem>
  <image src="Bichenoblow5.jpg" id="45" height="258"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="1." stars="       " 

id="

46"

>Start 

on 

pockets 

just right 

of 

arete</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="

V?" name="

       " number="2."

 stars="       " 

id="

47">Project - start from big flat hold</problem>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)" grade="

V3/4"

name="      

" number="3."

stars="       "

 id="48">Up crack</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V3/4" name="

       " number="4." stars="

       " 

id="

49"

>Up 

from 

underclings to 

pockets</

problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" 

grade="VE" name="       " number="5." stars="       " 

id="

50">Easy slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="

VE"

name="       " number="

6."

stars="       "

 id="51">Easy slab</problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="

V3" name="       " number="

7."

stars="       "

 id="52">Awkward sitstart and up crack</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V3/4"

name="       " number="

8."

stars="       "

 id="53">Awkward sitstart just left of arete and up to jugs</problem>
  <image src="Bichenoblow6.jpg" id="54" height="300"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V3" name="       " number="9." 

stars="**" id="55">Sitstart off low slot and up steeply to jugs</problem>
  <text class="text" id="56">This is around the corner into the next little zawn, below Blowhole Boulder:</text>
  <image src="Bichenoblow7.jpg" id="57" height="230"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="

V2/3" name="       " number="

1."

stars="*" id="58">Sitstart up flake to slopey topout</problem>
 

<problem 

extra="(

Stand)"

grade="

V1" name="       " number="

2."

 stars="       " 

id="

59"

>Face 

using 

big 

slots</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="       " 

number="

3."

 stars="       " id="60">Project - knob to shallow pockets</problem>
  <image src="Bichenoblow8.jpg" id="61" height="379"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4/5" name="There she blows" number="4." stars="*" id="62">Up face using high crimps (hard to reach) to slopey topout. The sitstart will be very hard if it goes.</problem>
  <text class="text" id="63">This is directly under Blowhole Boulder:</text>
  <image src="Bichenoblow9.jpg" id="64" height="272"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

 grade="V0" name="      

"

number="

1." 

stars="

       " 

id="65"

>Layback 

up corner</problem>
  <problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="

V1"

name="       " number="

2." stars="

       " 

id="

66">Up 

arete</problem>
  <problem 

extra="(

Stand)" grade="

V1" name="       " number="

3." stars="

       " 

id="

67">Up

 arete</problem>
  <text class="heading3" id="68">Exploding Crystal Boulders</text>
  <text class="text" id="69">These three free standing boulders are about 40m north of the Blowhole. The rock isn't as good as some of the other boulders and tends to be a bit gravelly.</text>
  <image src="Bichenoexplodingcrystal1.jpg" id="70" height="243"/>
  <text class="text" id="71">This is the side facing land:</text>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="VE" name="       " number="

1."

stars="       "

 id="72">Slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

 grade="V0" name="Exploding 

Crystal" new="false" number="

2."

stars="" 

id="73">Slab up highest part of 

boulder</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(

Stand)" grade="

V0" name="       " number="

3."

stars="       "

 id="74">Slab with underclings</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V?" name="       " number="

4."

stars="       "

 id="75">Project</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS

)" grade="

V2" name="

Bohemian Crystal" number="

5."

 stars="*" id="76">Sitstart at arete</problem>
  <image src="Bichenoexplodingcrystal2.jpg" id="77" 

height="248"/>
  <text class="text" id="78">This is the 

seaward 

side 

of 

the 

boulders:</

text>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="

V0" name="       " number="

1."

stars="       "

 id="79">Slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="VE" name="       " number="

2."

 stars="       "

 id="80">Slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="

V2" name="My Brown 

Dog" number="

3."

stars="       "

 id="81">Sitstart and up crack</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="

V?" name="       " number="

4." stars="

       " 

id="82">Project</problem>
  <image src="Bichenoexplodingcrystal3.jpg" width="800" 

id="83" height="339"/>
  <text class="text" id="84">This is the northern side of the boulders:</text>
  <problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="

V2"

name="       " number="

1."

 stars="       

" id="

85"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="" number="2." stars="       " 

id="

86"

>Pull 

over the 

slopey 

shelf 

from sitting.</problem>
  <problem id="305" name="Left Cleft" 

grade="

V8"

 extra="(SDS)" 

number="

3."

 stars="*">Start on slopey protrusions at the base 

of the left cleft. Slap up and left to the lip and fight upwards.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V3" name="

High Tide" number="

4."

stars="*" 

id="87"/>
  <problem 

extra="(

SDS)" grade="

V1" name="

Low Tide" number="

5."

stars="       "

 id="88"/>
  

<problem extra="(

Hang)" grade="V4

"

name="

Drowned" number="

6."

stars="

" id="89">Hang start on lowest hold on lip above overhang and slap up.</problem>
  <text id="307" class="heading3">Mushroom Boulder</text>
  <text id="308">This is next to the exploding crystal boulders, and the problem faces inland.</text>
  <image id="313" src="mushroom.jpg" height="281"/>
  <problem id="309" number="1."

 name="The Mushroom" stars="*" 

grade="V7" extra="(SDS)">Pull up using the crack and anything else, gain the slopey arete and then the top.</problem>
  <text class="heading3" id="90">Crab Boulders</text>
  <text class="text" id="91">These boulders are about another 50m north of the Exploding Crystal Boulders.</text>
  <image src="Bichenocrab1.jpg" id="92" height="203"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="

V?" name="       " number="

1."

stars="       "

id="93"/>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Hermit Crab" number="2." stars="*" id="94">A heel helps pull up the hanging arete.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="       " number="3." stars="       " id="95">Slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Mud Crab" number="4." stars="       " id="96"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="       " number="

5."

stars="

"

id="

97"/>
  

<image src="Bichenocrab2.jpg" id="98" height="306"/>
  <text class="text" id="99">This is the north facing side of the boulders:</text>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

VE" name="       " number="

1."

stars="  

     " id="100"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V2" name="       " number="

2."

 stars="       " 

id="101">Arete over awkward landing</problem>
  <problem 

extra="(

Stand)"

 grade="V2" name="

Giant 

Crab" number="

3."

stars="*

" id="102">Start off flakes</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" 

grade="V0" name="       " 

number="

4."

 stars="       " id="103"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="

5."

 stars="       " 

id="104">Go into the gap between problems 

1 and 2. There are four different slab problems in there.</problem>
  <text id="310" class="heading3">Gaston Wall</text>
  <image id="314" src="bichenogaston.jpg" height="281"/>
  <text id="311">Some way back towards land from the crab boulders is a nice face.</text>
  <problem id="312" name="Project?" extra="(SDS)" number="1." stars="**">Pull to a hard move from a thin gaston. V9?</problem>
  <text class="heading2" id="105">Suntrap Cove</text>
  <text class="text" id="106">Halfway between Crab Boulders and The Block Area is a small cove with several large boulders on the southern side.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="107">Suntrap Boulder</text>
  <text class="text" id="108">This is the 

smooth 

boulder 

closest 

to Suntrap cove. A short walk south along the Foreshore Walk from the Suntrap Cove roadside sign.</text>
  <image src="suntrapBoulderArrows.jpg" width="" id="109" height="333"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V1" name="

" number="

1."

 stars="" id="110">Up on flake.</problem>
  

<problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="V3" name="

" number="

2."

 stars="" id="111">Ugly first move leads to 

crimp and highstep. Best avoided.</problem>
  <problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="V1"

name="

" number="

3."

 stars="*" id="112">Step onto hold/rock and head for the top.</problem>
  <image src="SuntrapBoulderNorthArrows.jpg" width="" id="113" height="333"/>
  <problem extra="(

Stand)"

grade="

V2" name="

" number="

4."

stars="

"

 id="114" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2017">Pull onto the face with a high foot.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V4"

name="

" number="

5."

 stars="" id="115" 

length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2017">Start on slopey rail and 

head up through more slopes.</

problem>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)"

grade="

V5" name="

Angry 

Penguins" number="

6."

stars="

**" id="116" length="" fa="">Start right hand in the corner and left on the arete. One hardish move to gain a higher handhold on the arete then up to a mantle top-out.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V4"

name="

" number="

7."

stars="" id="117" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2017">Start in 

crack using right 

arete.</

problem>
  

<text class="

heading3" 

id="119">Sharp boulder</text>
  

<text class="text" 

id="

120"

>This boulder is 100m south of the Suntrap cove 

boulder. It is sharper than most of 

the boulders in this area.</

text>
  <image 

src="

sharpBoulderArrows.jpg"

 width="" id="121" height="297"/>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)" grade="VE" name="

" number="1."

stars="

" id="122">Move up left arete.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V3"

name="

" number="2."

 stars="" id="123" length="" fa="">Start at base of crack using hold and crimp layaway. Move to top of crack layaway and then to the top rounds.</problem>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)" grade="V2" name="

" number="3.

"

 stars="

" 

id="

124" length="" 

fa="

"

>Sit-start on layaway and good hold. Up face 

to crimp, left hand arete 

and up.</problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(Stand)"

grade="

V4" name="

" number="5."

 stars="" id="126" 

length="" fa="">Start left hand on the undercling and step up into it. Just one move and then the mantle. Sit start would be hard.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" number="6." stars="" id="127">Start on the obvious flake. Layaway and head for the top jugs.</problem>
  <text class="heading2" id="128">The Block Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="129">Park at the little picnic area on the coast just south of the Gulch area and 300m north of the Blowhole. Wander down to the obvious square cut blocks.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="130">The Wall</text>
  <text class="text" id="131">This is the vertical wall directly opposite the Block</text>
  <image src="Bichenoblock1.jpg" id="132" height="304"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="       " 

number="1." 

stars="

       " 

id="133"

>Using 

left 

arete 

and 

slopers 

pull 

to 

ledge. 

Sitstart might be possible, but very hard.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V4" name="Another Brick in the Wall" number="

2."

stars="*"

 id="134">Start off 2 slopers, pull to ledge</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="       

"

number="3." 

stars="

*" 

id="135">Nice corner</

problem>
  

<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V5" name="Wall of China" number="

4." stars="

       " 

id="136"

>Thin 

face 

1m 

right of corner, don't use corner</problem>
  <problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="

V6" name="Berlin Wall" number="

5."

 stars="**" id="137">Straight up the middle of the wall on crimps with a throw to the top jug.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " 

number="6."

stars=" 

" id="

138"

>Corner</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="       " number="7." stars="       " id="139">Crack</problem>
  <problem extra="       

" 

grade="V0"

name=

"

" number="

       " stars="

       " id="140">Diagonal crack around corner to right of previous problem</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V8" name="       " number="8." stars="**"

 id="141">Traverse across very thin wall finish up 4.</problem>
  <text class="text" id="142">The wall continues on around to the left:</text>
  <image src="Bichenoblock2.jpg" id="143" height="219"/>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)" grade="

V0" name

="

       " 

number="1."

 stars="       " id="144"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V0" name="       " number="

2." stars=

"

       " 

id="145"

/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " 

number="3."

 stars="       " id="146"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V1" name=

" 

      " number="4." stars="

" id="147"/>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="       " 

number="5." stars="

*"

 id="148">Right to left traverse</problem>
  <text class="heading3" id="149">The Block</text>
  <text class="text" id="150">This is the main free standing boulder:</text>
  <image src="Bichenoblock3.jpg" id="151" height="353"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Block Rockin&apos; Beats" number="1." stars="***" id="152">On the boulder there is a completely blank overhanging face. This problem climbs the steep left arete on pockets.</problem>
  <image src="Bichenoblock4.jpg" id="153" height="300"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V5"

name="       " number="

2."

stars="       "

 id="154">Pull up off thin slopes</problem>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)" grade="

V7" name=

"

       " number="

3."

 stars="*"

 id="155">Up off 

jug to 

slopes</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="

V2" name="       " number="

4." stars="

       " 

id="

156"

>Up corner</

problem>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)"

grade="

V7" name="

Road 

Block" number="

5."

stars="**" id="157">Sit start on the big jug 

and 

pull 

through 

to 

the 

top on slopes</problem>
  

<image src="Bichenoblock5.jpg" id="158" height="212"/>
  <text class="text" id="159">The opposite side of the 

freestanding boulder:</text>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="

V3/4" name="       " number="

       " stars="       "

id="

160"

>Just left of the arete pull up on 

flake and do a tricky mantle over the top of the steep face</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="       "

 number="1." stars="       "

 id="161">Near left arete</problem>
  

<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V1" name="       " number="

2." stars="       "

 id="162">Up slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)" grade="

V1" name="       " number="

3."

 stars="       " 

id="

163"

>Up flake</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="       " 

number="

4." stars="       " id="164">Start as for previous problem but go right to pockets</problem>
  <problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="

V2"

name="       " number="

5."

 stars="       

" id="165">Start in little depression and up slab using 

underclings</problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V7"

 name="

       " 

new="false" number="6." stars="" id="166">Up using undercling/crack.</problem>
  <text class="heading3" new="false" 

id="

167"

>Grey Dog Boulder</text>
  <text class="text" 

new="false" id="168">This is the orange slab adjacent to 

the Block.</text>
  <problem 

extra="(

Stand)" grade="

V0"

name="

" new="false" number="

"

stars="" id="169">Left side 

of slab</problem>
  

<problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="

VE"

name=""

 new="false" number="

"

stars="" id="170">Crack in middle 

of slab</problem>
  

<problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="

V0" name="" 

new="false" number="

"

stars="" id="

171">Right 

side 

of 

slab</

problem>
  <image new="false" number="null." src="BichenoProblem2.jpg" width="" id="172" 

height="

381"

>null</

image>
  <text class="text" 

new="false" id="

173">This problem is 

just 

around 

to 

the 

right.</

text>
  

<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V4"

name="

Grey 

Dog" new="false" number="1."

stars="**

" id="174">Use the 

undercling 

to 

the 

top 

then 

head left.</

problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" 

grade="V0" name="Glory Hole" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="175">In the middle of the back of the Grey Dog boulder, start down in hole, climb the nice flake.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="

V2" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="176">Start a couple 

of metres right of Glory Hole off the blocks. Sitstart off sidepull, move L up face.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="

" new="false" number="

"

stars="" id="177">Easy cracks to R of previous problem</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="

V0" name=""

new="false" number="

"

stars="

"

 id="178">Diagonal crack left of arete</problem>
  <image src="Bichenoblock6.jpg" id="179" height="267"/>
  <text class="text" new="false" id="180">This small boulder is just behind the Grey Dog boulder.</text>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3

" name="       " number="

1." stars="       "

 id="181"/>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)" grade="

V3" name="       " number="

2."

stars="       "

 id="182"/>
  

<text class="

heading3" 

new="

false" 

id="183">The Orange Slab Area</text>
  <text class="text" new="false" 

id="

184">These slabs are about 40-50m east of the Block area and face out to sea.</text>
  <text class="text" new="false" id="185">The Black Slab is about 20m left of the Orange Slab.</text>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="186">Prow around to the left of the Black Slab - looks nice but a bit scary.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="" new="false" number="" stars="" id="187">Crack on left edge of slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V1" name="

" new="false" number="

"

stars="*" 

id="188">Slab 1m R of crack</problem>
  <problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="

V1" name="The Black 

Slab" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="

189">Up middle of slab on nice dimples</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="" new="false" number="" stars="*" id="190">Slab 2m R on more dimples</problem>
  <image src="Bichenoorangeslab.jpg" id="191" height="284"/>
  <text class="text" new="false" 

id="

192"

>This is the Orange Slab itself.</text>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V2/3" name="       " number="1." stars="       " 

id="

193"/>
  <problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="

V?" name="       " number="

2."

 stars="       " 

id="194">Project - very thin up the steepest part 

of the face</problem>
  

<problem extra="(

Stand)" grade="

V6?"

name="       " number="

3." stars="       "

 id="195">Project - Up thin seam on small flakes</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="Fully Sick Mate" number="4." stars="       " 

id="

196">Up thin slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)

" grade="V1" name="       " 

number="

5." 

stars="       " 

id="

197"/>
  <text class="text" new="false" id="198">20m right of the 

Orange Slab is a smaller lower angled 

slab - The White Slab.</

text>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="

V1" name="

" new="false" number="

"

stars="*" 

id="199">Diagonals on L side of slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V0" name="

" new="false" number="

"

stars="

" id="200">Crack in middle of slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="

V2" name="

The White Slab" new="false" number="

"

 stars="*" id="201">Nice slab 1m right 

of crack</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="

V0" name="" 

new="false" number="

"

stars="

" id="202">Diagonal on R of slab</problem>
  <text 

class="heading2" id="203">Peggys Point</

text>
  

<text 

class="text" id="204">The following great free standing boulders are on the Gulch side of Peggys Point. Park near the Silver Sands resort and walk across the oval and down to the coast. The boulders are obvious if you are on the right bit of coastline.</

text>
  <text 

class="heading3" id="205">Abalone Boulder</

text>
  

<text 

class="text" id="206">This is the more southerly of the two free standing boulders. It has excellent fine grained rock.</

text>

  <image 

src="Bichenoabalone1.jpg"

 id="207" height="339"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3"

name="Crab Stick" number="1."

stars="       " id="208">From jug up left to flake</

problem>
  

<problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Piece of Flake" number="2."

stars="**" id="209">Up large flake</

problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="V0" name="Fish and Chips" number="3."

 stars="*" id="210">Arete and corner</

problem>
  

<image src="Bichenoabalone2.jpg" width="500" id="

211" height="321"/>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)"

grade="

V5" name="Ab Diver" number="1." stars="

       " 

id="212">From the curving crack, pull up 

the face

. 

V2 

from 

standing.</

problem>
  

<problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Lemon and Garlic" number="2."

stars="       " id="213">Up face. SDS is a project</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" name="Soy Sauce" number="3."

stars="*" id="214">Corner left of arete</

problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)"

grade="V3/4" name="Abalone Arete" number="4."

stars="**" id="215">Sitstart at the crack. Move left to the big undercling flake on the arete and up. Eliminating the crack from the start would make it harder.</

problem>
  

<problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="Flathead" number="5."

stars="       " id="216">Crack</

problem>
  <problem extra="(

SDS)"

grade="

V8" name="       Hangman" number="6."

 stars="*" id="217">Sitstart the face (rh pinch the undercling) and pull up to gain the short hanging crack. V1 from standing.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2"

name="Mullet" number="7."

 stars="       " id="218">Crack</

problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="V0" name="       " number="8."

stars="       " id="219">Face</

problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="V2" name="Kelpie" number="9."

stars="       " id="220">Crusty arete</

problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)"

grade="V3" name="       " number="10."

 stars="*" id="221">Traverse the top lip right around the boulder</

problem>
  <problem 

extra="(Stand)" grade="V5/6?" name="       " number="11."

stars="       " id="222">Project - Start at Mullet and traverse leftwards without using the top of the boulder to finish at Crab Stick.</

problem>
  

<text 

class="text" id="223">This small boulder is about 20m north of the Abalone Boulder:</

text>
  

<image src="Bichenoabalone3.jpg" id="

224" height="372"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0"

name="Squid Rings" number="1."

stars="*" id="225">Low sitstart and up jugs</

problem>
  <text 

class="heading3" id="226">Crayfish Boulder</

text>
  <text 

class="text" id="

227">This free standing boulder is less than 100m north of the Abalone boulder, and has an overhanging east face.</

text>
  <image 

src="Bichenocrayfish1.jpg" width="500" id="228" height="

293"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)

" grade="V1" name="Craypot" number="1." stars="*" id="229">Up jugs on hanging face. Project - start down in cave and climb up to the face.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Hang)" grade="

V4" name="Craypot direct" number="

2." stars="" id="230" length="" fa="Brendan Heywood Dec 2013">Start dangling on slopers over void, throw left heel into groove and mantle into left roof hold, link up onto face.&lt;br/&gt;</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="

3." stars="

       " 

id="231">Project</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Tricky Little Bastards" number="4."

stars="*" id="232">Sit start in 

break and 

up</problem>
  <problem 

extra="(SDS)" grade="

VE" name="

The Crayfish" number="

5."

 stars="**" id="233">Sitstart at break and up groove 

using honker jugs. Brilliant easy problem.</problem>
  

<problem extra="(

Stand)"

grade="V3" name="

The 

Belly 

Scraper" number="

6." stars="***" id="234">Jump for the great jug and haul your arse over the top. More fun than a barrel full of monkeys.</problem>
  <problem id="315" stars="**" extra="(

Stand)" 

number="

7" name="

Crackpot 

Traverse" 

length="