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<guide pagesizeversion="5003" versionpagesize="3500"> <header id="1" access="About 9.5km drive up the Pinnacle Road from Fern Tree a prominent sweeping bend turns back on itself. This is the Big Bend, complete with small carpark (GPS MTW300). A number of smaller parking bays are available nearby if the main one is full. Great views of Lost World (also New World and Test World) open up as you drive the last km to the bend. <br/><br/>There are two ways to the crag. First, cross the road and the small creek. andContinue followover athe muddystepping trackstones past a track signpost for about 50m. (1)to Foran theinconspicuous LHfork (south)in endthe oftrack. theThe cliff,intersection takeis themarked narrowby trackthe offfirst toof thea Rseries (GPSof MTW310orange –triangular track bifurcation marked by a rock with a red spot on either side, and sometimes a small cairn as well) and follow the faint track then yellow paint splotsmarkers. <br/><br/>1. Usual access is to the Lactos Rap Station. From the fork in the track, take the indistinct track off to the right (GPS MTW310). Marked below as the Yellow Dot track. The initial section of this track has no markers. The pad becomes more obvious though and after 150m, red plastic markers appear. Continue following the track as it descends through trees for about 10 minutes down to a boulder field and on to the top of the cliff. (2) For.<br/><br/>2. To access the RHright (north)hand end of Lost World, don't take turnthe offright Rfork but continue onstraight ahead along the track (red markers) past another track signpostwell-travelled path marked with the orange triangles (marked below as the Red Dot track) for about 15 15minsminutes which leads round over a small ridge then downdownhill to reach the base of the RHright hand end of the cliff. This is the usual bushwalkers access." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="The Lost World is a popular locatedsubsidiary highcrag on the eastern side mountain and is best known for its variety of Mountsteep Arthurand atunrelenting aroundcrack 1100mclimbs. However, there beingare relativelyalso sheltered,some itstunning isarêtes oftenand warmerface thanclimbs theas Pipeswell. Lost RetreatWorld is alsolocated simplerjust into the eventNorth of suddenthe inclementPipes weather.on Thethe Losteastern Worldside isof knownMount forArthur theat steepan and relentlesselevation nature of the climbing here1100m. MainlyBeing cracksrelatively butsheltered nowand somewith stunningquick arêtes and wallseasy as well – thereaccess, it is nowoften awarmer mixturethan ofthe nearly 50Pipes trad and boltedretreat routesis here,simple fromin gradethe 14event chimneysof tosudden gradeinclement 29 arêtesweather. MostSome of the early, first generation sportssport climbs onat New theseWorld cliffsstill have glued carrots with large heads and no rap stations... takeSo someyou largewill hangers.need Climbsto areaccess describedsome Llarge to Rhangers." name="Lost World" rock="Dolerite columns up to 30m high" sun="Morning sun" walk="15 min fairly flat" camping="" idautonumber="1true"/> <text class="indentedHeader" id="2">Descent: There is a bolted rap station at the top of Hoot and Lactos, near the centre of the cliff. To find it, follow (most people fix a rope). Follow the yellowYellow paintDot splodgestrack to the screeboulder abovefield the(as cliff.noted Whereunder theAccess) paintand traildescend veers R, pick up a a short path continuingstraight towardsto the cliff edge. Once at the top of the cliff, head back L (north) along the cliff edge. The bolts are walk left along a ledge for 12m passing a snow gum. The Lactos rap station is at the far end of a reasonablythe obvious ledge, by a small gum tree (GPS MTW320). Some Ifof youthe canclimbs notalso locatehave itlower-offs, gobut backthose towithout theend markedin traileasy andtop-outs followwith theample paintnatural spotsanchors. downWalking the steep gully (GPS MTW330) that comes out at the base of Lost World at the LH end (south) between Incredible Journey and CC's. For the RH end (north), scramble down the gully near the end of the cliff line, R of Paladin, following the Red Spot path as described in Access. Descent using the central gully is NOT recommended - it is loose, muddy and slippery. Enough said.</text> <gps id="3" kml="<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <kml xmlns="http://www.opengis.net/kml/2.2" xmlns:gx="http://www.google.com/kml/ext/2.2" xmlns:kml="http://www.opengis.net/kml/2.2" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"> <Document> <name>Lost World</name> <open>1</open> <Style id="sn_ylw-pushpin"> <LineStyle> <color>7dff0000</color> <width>6</width> </LineStyle> </Style> <Style id="sn_ylw-pushpin0"> <LineStyle> <color>7fffffff</color> <width>6</width> </LineStyle> </Style> <Style id="sn_ylw-pushpin1"> <LineStyle> <color>7fffffff</color> <width>6</width> </LineStyle> </Styleback to the Lactos rap-station is straightforward.<br/><br/>If you are unable to locate the rap station, go back up to the boulder field, head left and pick up some very faded yellow spots painted on boulders. Follow the paint spots down and left to a scramble down a short body chimney. The bottom of the chimney leads into the Southern Descent gully (GPS MTW330), which comes out at the base of Lost World at the left hand end between Incredible Journey and CC's. <br/><br/>For the routes at the right hand end of Lost World, continue following the orange triangular markers across the horizontal columns at the base of the cliff. This is an excellent spot to view the cliff line and determine the best route access to the bottom of climbs.<br/><br/>The central gully is not recommended as an access/descent route as it is loose, slippery and eroded.</text> <gps id="3" kml="<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <kml xmlns="http://www.opengis.net/kml/2.2" xmlns:gx="http://www.google.com/kml/ext/2.2" xmlns:kml="http://www.opengis.net/kml/2.2" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"> <Document> <name>Lost World</name> <open>1</open> <Style id="sn_ylw-pushpin00pushpin"> <LineStyle> <color>7f0000ff7dff0000</color> <width>6</width> </LineStyle> </Style> <Style id="sn_ylw-pushpin2pushpin0"> <LineStyle> <color>7f00ffff7fffffff</color> <width>6</width> </LineStyle> </Style> <Placemark;Style id="sn_ylw-pushpin1"> <nameLineStyle>Yellow Dot Track <color>7fffffff</namecolor> <Snippet maxLineswidth>6</width> </LineStyle> </Style> <Style id="2sn_ylw-pushpin00">Click to view track info and photo <LineStyle> <color>7f0000ff</Snippetcolor> <width>6<description/width>Yellow Dot Track</descriptionLineStyle> </Style> <styleUrl>#snStyle id="sn_ylw-pushpin2<quot;/styleUrl> <LineStringLineStyle> <color>7f00ffff<coordinates/color> 147.225550, -42.883586, 1081 147.225387, -42.883940, 1081 147.22551, -42.88426, 1081 147.22488,-42.884001,1081 147.22488,-42.884001,1081 147.224809,-42.883978,1081 147.224764,-42.88398,1081 147.224726,-42.883982,1081 147.224726,-42.883982,1081 147.224631,-42.884002,1083 147.224594,-42.884027,1083 147.224553,-42.88405,1083 147.224522,-42.884068,1084 147.224497,-42.884092,1084 147.224489,-42.884122,1085 147.224489,-42.884122,1085 147.224481,-42.884202,1085 147.224481,-42.884202,1085 147.22443,-42.884235,1085 147.224381,-42.884234,1085 147.224342,-42.884235,1086 147.224303,-42.884235,1087 147.224303,-42. <width>6</width> </LineStyle> </Style> <Placemark> <name>Yellow Dot Track</name> <Snippet maxLines="2">Click to view track info and photo</Snippet> <description>Yellow Dot Track</description> <styleUrl>#sn_ylw-pushpin2</styleUrl> <LineString> <coordinates> 147.225550, -42.883586, 1081 147.225387, -42.883940, 1081 147.22551, -42.88426, 1081 147.22488,-42.884001,1081 147.22488,-42.884001,1081 147.224809,-42.883978,1081 147.224764,-42.88398,1081 147.224726,-42.883982,1081 147.224726,-42.883982,1081 147.224631,-42.884002,1083 147.224594,-42.884027,1083 147.224553,-42.88405,1083 147.224522,-42.884068,1084 147.224497,-42.884092,1084 147.224489,-42.884122,1085 147.224489,-42.884122,1085 147.224481,-42.884202,1085 147.224481,-42.884202,1085 147.22443,-42.884235,1085 147.224381,-42.884234,1085 147.224342,-42.884235,1086 147.224303,-42.884235,1087 147.224303,-42.884235,1087 147.224241,-42.884268,1090 147.224244,-42.8843,1091 147.224237,-42.884326,1092 147.224213,-42.884352,1093 147.224158,-42.884374,1092 147.224111,-42.88438,1092 147.224072,-42.884387,1094 147.224036,-42.8844,1095 147.223999,-42.884413,1096 147.22396,-42.884422,1098 147.223927,-42.884435,1099 147.223927,-42.884435,1099 147.223875,-42.88447,1100 147.223863,-42.884499,1101 147.223846,-42.884531,1102 147.223833,-42.884557,1101 147.223815,-42.884586,1102 147.223791,-42.884613,1100 147.223757,-42.884626,1102 147.223701,-42.884629,1101 147.223632,-42.884627,1100 147.223587,-42.884627,1099 147.223544,-42.884625,1098 147.223486,-42.884624,1098 147.223433,-42.884623,1099 147.22339,-42.884623,1099 147.223352,-42.884624,1098 147.223307,-42.884628,1098 147.223266,-42.884644,1098 147.223229,-42.884665,1100 147.223195,-42.884686,1099 147.22316,-42.884705,1101 147.223129,-42.884721,1102 147.223088,-42.884726,1103 147.223052,-42.884721,1103 147.223,-42.884714,1103 147.222964,-42.884707,1104 147.222903,-42.884697,1104 147.222846,-42.884694,1105 147.222764,-42.884688,1105 147.222726,-42.884684,1105 147.222683,-42.884676,1106 147.222632,-42.884669,1107 147.222591,-42.884669,1107 147.222538,-42.884668,1107 147.222416,-42.884665,1108 </coordinates> <tesselate>1</tesselate> </LineString> </Placemark> <Placemark> <name>Track to New World</name> <Snippet maxLines="2">Click to view track info and photo</Snippet> <description>Track to New World. The easiest route to the cliff is probably to follow the Yellow Spot Track across the boulder field in front of Lost World until it meets the Red Spot Track, just about directly opposite the Lactos abseil (GPS MTW360). Follow the yellow spots steeply down over the edge for about 50m and shortly after the track levels off (just before it veers off down again and to the R), a large cairn on the LH side (GPS MTW370) marks a track that contours round to the north, marked by tape and occasional cairns, to two bolted arêtes.</description> <styleUrl>#sn_ylw-pushpin1</styleUrl> <LineString> <coordinates> 147.226503,-42.883379,996 147.226498,-42.883329,996 147.226498,-42.883329,996 147.226479,-42.883171,993.0000000000001 147.226464,-42.883141,993.0000000000001 147.226445,-42.883117,992 147.226445,-42.883117,992 147.226325,-42.882851,991.0000000000001 147.226316,-42.882824,991.0000000000001 147.226302,-42.88275,989.0000000000001 147.226263,-42.882666,989.0000000000001 147.226263,-42.882666,989.0000000000001 147.22623,-42.882569,988 147.22623,-42.882569,988 147.226212,-42.88252,991.0000000000001 147.226212,-42.88252,991.0000000000001 147.226158,-42.882454,991.0000000000001 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zone="55G"/><point code="MTW330" description="Lost World southern descent gully" easting="518416" height="0" northing="5252009" zone="55G"/><point code="MTW350" description="New World" easting="518464" height="0" northing="5252302" zone="55G"/><point code="MTW370" description="Cairn on way to New World" easting="518478" height="0" northing="5252106" zone="55G"/><point code="MTW390" description="Test World" easting="518424" height="0" northing="5251928" zone="55G"/><point code="MTW630" description="Micro World" easting="518110" height="0" northing="5252156" zone="55G"/></gps><image src="lost world2.png" width="" id="4">null</image><text id="97" class="heading3">Lost World Left Side</text><image src="LostWorldLHPrint.jpg" width="700" id="5" legend="true" legendx="40" legendy="40" legendTitle="Lost World LHS">null<legend>7</legend><legend>8</legend><legend>9</legend><legend>10</legend><legend>13</legend><legend>15</legend><legend>17</legend><legend>19</legend><legend>20</legend><legend>21</legend><legend>23</legend></image> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="18m" name="Dig For Fire" stars="" id="6" fa="O. Prall, R. Parkyn, Jan 1992.">The direct start to Good Behaviour. Climb the awkward tight hand crack straight up past the bush and into the easier Good Behaviour line.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Good Behaviour" number="GB" stars="*" id="7" fa="E. Peacock, A. Herington, Sep 1982.">If you're not on your best behaviour, you might get spanked! About 25m L of the southern descent gully are a pair of twin cracks with a 4m high rock finger leaning against the wall. The RH flake crack on the arête above ends at 10m. Chimney up the back of the rock finger and climb to the top of the RH crack. Undercling L to the hand crack, which is followed to the top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="Electric Chair" number="EC" stars="*" id="8" fa="A. Herington, E. Peacock, Sep 1982.">A steep fist crack that takes the next line L of Incredible Journey. Up the thin crack to a small roof at 3m and turn it on its R to a ledge. Jam the crack past a small wedge shaped chockstone to an offwidth move near the top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Incredible Journey" number="IJ" stars="" id="9" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1989.">Just L of the descent gully is a short, steep hand crack in a shallow groove. Climb the crack past an awkward move to the top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="CC's" number="CC" stars="" id="10" fa="D. Gray, R. Parkyn, Jan 1992.">On the R arête of the descent gully is a thin line that goes through a bulge and up the L edge of the prominent slab. Wires in the thin crack are good and the problem is best tackled by climbing the arête. From the top of the slab follow the easy yellow corner to top. Alternative start: Enchilada (15). Climb the big corner in the descent gully L of CC's to join up with the yellow corner.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Taco" number="" stars="" id="11" fa="M. Law, G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978.">The original route on the prominent slab 2m R of CC's. Climb to the L of the stepped roofs, up a thin crack, to below a bulge. Face climb up the L side of the bulge to the small stance on top. Straight up the slab, over the horizontal seam to the top (protect with a pin or a small camming unit).</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Black Cherry" number="" stars="" id="12" fa="A. Herington, E. Peacock, Oct 1982.">2m L of Face It is a vegetated fist crack. Start 1m L of this crack (as for Taco) and climb up trending R past the stepped roofs. Reach R into the crack to place pro before bridging and laying away up past the bulge on Taco. Once back in the crack, continue to the top, finishing up the final crack of Face It.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Face It" number="FI" stars="*" id="13" fa="M. Law, G. Child, S. Parsons, Feb 1978.">Stare the beast down. The crack 3m R of Black Cherry and immediately L of a hugely vegetated corner. Climb the crack past two blocky ledges to just below the base of a small vee groove near the top. Hand traverse L and finish up a short crack.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Quarryman" number="" stars="" id="14" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Aug 1999.">A vegetated corner that might require even further gardening. The twin cracks between Face It and Play Dirty. An epic clean on lead.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="Play Dirty" number="PD" stars="*" id="15" fa="G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978.">The lightly vegetated, thin flared crack 3m R of the vegetated corner of Quarryman. Climb the crack and the shallow corner above.</climb> <climb extra="5Þ" grade="24" length="16m" name="Metal Mania" number="" stars="*" id="16" fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1992.">Crank up the blunt arête between Play Dirty and Glam. Scramble up to bushy ledge to start just L of Glam. Bolts are carrots with large heads.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="17m" name="Glam" number="GL" stars="*" id="17" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Sep 1982.">The hand crack 6m around the arête R of Play Dirty and 25m L of Atlantis. This is the far LH line in the semi-circle of buttresses L of Atlantis and has a short diagonal finger crack near the top. Scramble up to bushy ledge to start. Hand jam to a small ledge, pull up on face holds, then follow the finger crack to the top.</climb> <climb extra="↓" grade="22" length="10m" name="The Space Of Disse" number="" stars="" id="18" fa="O. Prall, Jan 1992.">A glorified boulder problem. The discontinuous thin crack 5m around the arête L of Atlantis. Up the sustained crack to the horizontal then rap off at the bolt.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Atlantis" number="AT" stars="***" id="19" fa="J. Friend, Jan 1975.">The tradster's testpiece. Not the best crack on the mountain (as claimed by Joe Friend), but it's pretty darn good. L of Savage Journey is a dirty corner chimney and L of this is a fine looking, north facing crack line passing between roofs. Climb the crack through various widths, with the crux just below the top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Savage Journey" number="SJ" stars="***" id="20" fa="H. Barber, Apr 1975.">Hand... Off-hand... Fist... This will sort the crack masters from those who are not! On the gently overhanging wall R of Atlantis are two cracks, take the LH line. Climb the steep and ever widening crack all the way.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Cruise Air" number="CA" stars="*" id="21" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Apr 1982.">The RH crack on the slightly overhanging wall R of Atlantis. Climb the steep cracks, moving R at the obvious transition. Follow the crack to the top, which becomes offwidth.</climb> <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="29" length="25m" name="Cheshire Cat" number="CH" stars="***" id="23" fa="K. Robinson, Jan 2004.">You'll never quit grinning. The arête R of Cruise Air and L of Lactos.</climb> <climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="22m" name="Lactos" number="LA" stars="*" id="24" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1982.">The thin crack immediately L of a chimney just around the arête R of Cruise Air. Climb the steep crack line to a small ledge. Continue up a short corner to the top. Harder if you don't use the R wall of the chimney. Rap station at the top (on the R).</climb><climb id="100" length="22m" grade="12" name="Hoot" fa="T. McKenny, D. Gray, Apr 2011.">The chimney. Keep to the outside and finish off L at very top. </climb> <climb extra="Þ ↓ " grade="" length="22m" name="GP Project" number="" stars="" id="25">Garry Phillips project (2006) immediately R of the abseil line.</climb> <climb extra="4Þ ↓" grade="25" length="20m" name="Carhookia" number="" stars="*" id="26" fa="N. Selby, 2000.">Start 3m R of the bottom of Lactos (where the abseil lands you). Optional natural gear at the bottom then 4 bolts to a lower-off.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Heavenly Head Job" number="HH" stars="" id="27" fa="Phil Steane, Sep 1982.">It gets the thumbs up from Bill Clinton. The strange looking corner capped with a roof R of Carhookia. Bridge and jam the corner which becomes progressively harder. Hand jam the roof, step out L (awkward) and continue to the top, or belay and rap from the Carhookia lower-off.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Stone The Crows" number="SC" stars="" id="28" fa="L. Closs, I. Lewis, Mar 1973.">A tricky start that can flummox newcomers. Found 10m L of the central gully and marked by a conspicuous clean offwidth crack. Climb the short steep wall (difficult to protect) and continue up the wide crack above until a ledge is reached. Climb either of the two cracks to reach the top.</climb><text id="98" class="heading3">Lost World Right Side</text> <image src="lostworldRightPrint.jpg" width="900" id="22" legend="true" legendx="20" legendy="20" legendTitle="Lost World RHS">null<legend>21</legend><legend>23</legend><legend>24</legend><legend>27</legend><legend>28</legend><legend>33</legend><legend>34</legend><legend>35</legend><legend>36</legend><legend>40</legend><legend>42</legend><legend>43</legend><legend>47</legend><legend>49</legend><legend>50</legend><legend>51</legend></image> <climb extra="" grade="15" length="8m" name="Cloaca" number="" stars="" id="29" fa=" D. Gray, D. Rossen, Jan 1992.">On the southern wall of the central gully. Climb the hands to offwidth crack.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="17m" name="Drayton" number="" stars="" id="30" fa="D. Gray, A. Hall, Jan 1992.">A contrived tribute to a dead poet. Start via the bolts on Back on the Borderline, then move L and stem up the corner.</climb> <climb extra="2Þ" grade="20" length="17m" name="Back On The Borderline" number="" stars="" id="31" fa="D. Gray, D. Rossen, Nov 1990.">Start on the northern wall of the central gully, about 5m L of Commoner's Crown. Climb the wall past 2 bolts, then finish up the hand crack.</climb> <climb extra="5Þ" grade="23" length="17m" name="Naked Flame" number="" stars="" id="32" fa="D. Gray, D. Rossen, Jan 1992.">The arête 2m R of Back on the Borderline. Follow the line of bolts, avoiding the tempting step onto the L wall. The third clip is pretty tenuous.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Commoner's Crown" number="CO" stars="" id="33" fa="K. Kiernan, K. McConnell, Dec 1975.">The hand crack on the RH side of the central gully. Jam to a large ledge and thug your way up the often damp corner to the top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Cries And Whispers" number="CW" stars="*" id="34" fa="K. Lindorff, K. McConnell, Jan 1976.">The front of the buttress to the R of the central gully. Hand jam to an awkward rest stance between twin cracks. Move into the LH crack and up this (crux) to the large ledge. Finish as for Commoner's Crown.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Minstrel In The Gallery" number="MG" stars="" id="35" fa="R. Muhlen, B. Kennedy, K. McConnell, Jan 1977.">15m R of the central gully, twin cracks with an overhang halfway up the cliff. Jam the cleaner RH crack (though it is still often slippery).</climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Blood On The Racks" stars="*" id="36" fa="K. Kiernan, S. Karpiniec, K. McConnell, Dec 1975. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, P. Bigg, L. Shepherd, Jan 1982." number="BR">The short, thin crack a few metres L of Lost Wanderer. Up the crack past a thin section to a ledge. Continue L off the ledge easily to the top.</climb><text id="101">There has been a rock fall (2012) down the next line which has left the scree at the top near the popular Lost Wanderer belay very unstable and dangerous. </text> <climb extra="" grade="12" length="15m" name="Technicolour Zawn" stars="" id="37" fa="Phil Steane (solo), Jan 1983.">The easy chimney/flake with the bush immediately R of Blood on the Racks. Caution - the recent rock fall may have changed this route - the top is very unstable and dangerous. </climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Lost Wanderer" number="" stars="***" id="38" fa="I. Lewis, K. Carrigan, Apr 1974. Direct Start: L. Closs, Jul 1975.">Not hard to locate. The wall with two horizontal breaks about 50m R of the central gully. Climb the short crack on the L, traverse R using the horizontal breaks into the main crack, and follow this to the top. Direct Start (19): From the fallen block at the base climb directly up the front of the buttress to join the main crack. Not for the faint-hearted, as there is no pro and the landing on the rocks at the base would be rather painful if it all went pear-shaped.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Wander No More" number="" stars="" id="39" fa=" D. Gray, S. Eberhardt, Jan 1992.">The crack on the R side of the arête below Lost Wanderer. Finish up Lost Wanderer from about half height.</climb> <climb extra="Þ ↓ " grade="28" length="20m" name="Gargamell" number="GA" stars="**" id="40" fa="A. Williams, Jan 2004.">The bolted arête R of Lost Wanderer. Delicately powerful moves with an engaging crux.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="14" length="27m" name="Hurricane" number="" stars="" id="41" fa="Basil Rathbone, R. Roffe, Feb 1976.">The chances of being blown away are slim indeed. 15m R of Lost Wanderer, around the corner, is an obvious chimney with three large chockstones. Chimney and jam to the top.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Great Southern Land" number="GS" stars="*" id="42" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Oct 1982. FFA: G. Cooper, A. Adams, Feb 1986.">The corner with twin cracks above a scrubby ledge, about 15m R of Hurricane and around the arête L of Dyazide. Solo up past the scrub and onto the ledge and belay. Bridge and jam the twin cracks, finishing up the LH crack.</climb> <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="20m" name="Endorphine" stars="**" id="43" fa="K. Robinson, Jan 2004." number="EN">The bolted arête to the L of Dyazide and R of Great Southern Land, starting from the ledge at half height.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Dyazide" stars="*" id="44" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982.">The distinctive north-facing crack starting from a ledge halfway up the cliff, L of a wide corner. Scramble up to the ledge from the R. Jam the hand crack to an awkward rest in the sentry box, then exit using the finger crack (crux).</climb> <climb extra="" grade="25" length="15m" name="Don't Eat Yellow Snow" number="" stars="*" id="45" fa="Phil Steane, et al, Apr 1983. FFA: M. Jackson, Feb 1995.">Absorbing climbing. An old aid line that was freed in fine style. The second crack L of Adolf Builds A Bonfire and the third line R of Dyazide. The thin crack up the striped wall. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty. Small camming units required.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Adolf Builds A Bonfire" number="" stars="" id="46" fa="Phil Steane, A. Adams, Jan 1983.">The big corner L of Opportunity. Up the small slab then jam the corner.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Opportunity" number="OP" stars="*" id="47" fa="A. Adams, Phil Steane, Mar 1983.">Much to gain, so little pain. The overhung crack and sentry box 6m L of World Wide Adventure. Climb the crack past the sentry box to the sloping ledge at the top. The move onto the ledge is memorable.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="World Wide Adventure" stars="" id="48" fa="Phil Steane, N. Ward, Mar 1983.">The L-facing corner below a scrubby ledge 15m L of Rosy Pink Cadillac. A prominent gum tree is growing out of the top crack. Layback the corner, cross the ledge, jam the crack to the gum tree (crux) and finish up the final groove.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="12m" name="Money In The Bank" stars="" id="49" fa="(1) N. Ward, Phil Steane. (2) C. Maddock, Phil Steane, Apr 1983. FFA: E. Peacock, 1983." number="MB">A safe investment. 1. 8m 21. Climb the seam on the wall L of the Rosy Pink Cadillac offwidth. 2. 14m 12. Layback the large loose flake cautiously, finishing easily behind the buttress.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="25" length="25m" name="Rosy Pink Cadillac" number="RP" stars="***" id="50" fa="M. McHugh, R. McMahon, 1971. FFA: M. Law, 1978. Direct Start: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1983.">An old aid line gone free, following a thin crack up the front of the last major buttress on the R end of the cliff, L of Agent Orange Sunset. These days the route is normally climbed via both the Direct Start (25) past 2 FH, and the Direct Finish (25) past another FH, for a more strenuous and sustained outing. The original free version (23) started up the offwidth on the L before stepping R into the finger crack, and also finished by swinging around to the easy corner on the L at the end of finger crack.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="Agent Orange Sunset" stars="**" id="51" fa="Phil Steane, Nov 1982." number="AO">Unique and weird. Do it for the entertainment value. Tackles the prominent diagonal L leaning flake at the R end of the cliff. Struggle up the offwidth chimney 3m L of Paladin until you can traverse out L at the flake. Move up the flake to a roof, swing L around the arête and finish up an easy chimney.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="16m" name="Paladin" number="" stars="*" id="52" fa="P. Morris, P. Cullen, Jan 1977.">The short, steep, and slightly dirty hand crack at the far R of the cliff, just R of Agent Orange Sunset. Jam the crack.</climb> <text class="heading2" id="53">New World </text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="54">Rock: Dolerite, up to 15m high, slightly off vertical.</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="55">Access: This little crag (GPS MTW350), visible from the bend below the Chalet, is 15 minutes walk from Lost World. The easiest route to the cliff is probably to follow the Yellow Spot Track across the boulder field in front of Lost World until it meets the Red Spot Track, just about directly opposite the Lactos abseil (GPS MTW360). Follow the yellow spots steeply down over the edge for about 50m and shortly after the track levels off (just before it veers off down again and to the R), a large cairn on the LH side (GPS MTW370) marks a track that contours round to the north, marked by tape and occasional cairns, to two bolted arêtes. Alternatively, bush-bash down from the northern end of Lost World down to the top and rap off to reach the base... easier to describe, harder to do...</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="56">Climbing Info: 13 routes, offering a varied selection of cracks and bolted faces. Routes are described L to R and virtually all have initialed starts. Note that the carrot bolts used here have large heads, and will not take the newer right-angle RP brackets.</text> <climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="24" length="10m" name="Cranky Girl" number="" stars="*" id="57" fa="A. Williams, Jan 2002.">The first climb on the craglet (GPS MTW380) takes the arête of the column L of Dvorak Goes Metal.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="20" length="12m" name="Dvorak Goes Metal" number="" stars="**" id="58" fa="R. Parkyn, Apr 1991.">The route follows the superb looking arête, 5m R of Cranky Girl. Scramble to the base of the arête then launch onto the arête proper. Three bolts (carrots) protect the excellent and technical face climbing above, single bolt belay (FH).</climb> <climb extra="" grade="16" length="15m,-42.88357,1048 147.225647,-42.88357,1048 147.225771,-42.883563,1044 147.225771,-42.883563,1044 147.22591,-42.88336,1042 147.225944,-42.883312,1042 147.226084,-42.883322,1027 147.226362,-42.883341,1025 147.226362,-42.883341,1025 147.226629,-42.883379,1021 147.226591,-42.883382,1021 </coordinates> <tesselate>1</tesselate> </LineString> </Placemark> <Placemark> <name>Track to Micro World</name> <Snippet maxLines="2">Click to view track info and photo</Snippet> <description>Track to Micro World</description> <styleUrl>#sn_ylw-pushpin0</styleUrl> <LineString> <coordinates> 147.221802,-42.883055,1120 147.221795,-42.883085,1120 147.221789,-42.883119,1120 147.221793,-42.883149,1120 147.221803,-42.883179,1121 147.221814,-42.883208,1121 147.221841,-42.883257,1122 147.221861,-42.88328,1124 147.221894,-42.883317,1125 147.221931,-42.883338,1126 147.221963,-42.883359,1128 147.221992,-42.883379,1127 147.222021,-42.883407,1127 147.222049,-42.883439,1127 147.222071,-42.883467,1127 147.222087,-42.883491,1127 147.22211,-42.883526,1128 147.222137,-42.883548,1129 147.222174,-42.883562,1128 147.222266,-42.883604,1129 147.222296,-42.883634,1129 147.222308,-42.883662,1130 147.222342,-42.883692,1131 147.22239,-42.883702,1132 147.222436,-42.883694,1132 147.222491,-42.883685,1133 147.22255,-42.883692,1134 147.222581,-42.883721,1136 147.222634,-42.883739,1136 147.222681,-42.883745,1135 147.222732,-42.883761,1135 147.222763,-42.883782,1134 147.222794,-42.883811,1134 147.222802,-42.883842,1134 147.222824,-42.883877,1134 147.222858,-42.883902,1135 147.222895,-42.883928,1136 147.222924,-42.883945,1136 147.222972,-42.88397,1136 147.223018,-42.883985,1137 147.223056,-42.88399,1136 147.223094,-42.883996,1135 147.223141,-42.884028,1135 </coordinates> <tesselate>1</tesselate> </LineString> </Placemark> </Document> </kml> "> <point code="MTW300" description="Lost World car park" easting="518123" northing="5251918" zone="55G" latitude="-42.88512" longitude="147.22193" pid="0" height="0"/> <point code="MTW310" description="Start of Yellow Dot track" easting="518172" northing="5251964" zone="55G" latitude="-42.88471" longitude="147.22253" pid="1" height="0"/> <point code="MTW320" description="Lost World rap station - Lactos" easting="518386" northing="5252058" zone="55G" latitude="-42.88386" longitude="147.22515" pid="2" height="0"/> <point code="MTW330" description="Lost World southern descent gully" easting="518416" northing="5252009" zone="55G" latitude="-42.88430" longitude="147.22552" pid="3" height="0"/> <point code="MTW350" description="New World" easting="518464" northing="5252302" zone="55G" latitude="-42.88166" longitude="147.22610" pid="4" height="0"/> <point code="MTW370" description="Cairn on way to New World" easting="518478" northing="5252106" zone="55G" latitude="-42.88342" longitude="147.22627" pid="5" height="0"/> <point code="MTW390" description="Test World" easting="518424" northing="5251928" zone="55G" latitude="-42.88503" longitude="147.22562" pid="6" height="0"/> <point code="MTW630" description="Micro World" easting="518110" northing="5252156" zone="55G" latitude="-42.88298" longitude="147.22177" pid="7" height="0"/> <polyline pid="9" description="Access to Lactos Rap Station">-42.884707,147.222558 -42.884727,147.222821 -42.884719,147.222998 -42.884703,147.223148 -42.884711,147.223433 -42.884679,147.223631 -42.884628,147.223851 -42.88453,147.223862 -42.88442,147.223931 -42.884373,147.224044 -42.884298,147.22413 -42.884227,147.224221 -42.884204,147.224382 -42.884141,147.224527 -42.884078,147.224634 -42.883992,147.224801 -42.883941,147.224902 -42.883901,147.225053 -42.883889,147.225171</polyline> </gps> <image id="4" height="475" src="lost world2.png" width="">null</image> <text class="heading3" id="97">Lost World Far Left</text> <image id="112" src="IMG_3809 (1).jpg" height="563" width="900" legend="true" legendTitle="Lost World Far Left" legendx="4" legendy="3"> <drawing> <path id="54166" points="72.0,508.0, 71.0,508.0," d="M72.0,508.0C71.6,508.0 71.4,508.0 71.0,508.0"/> <path id="67073" points="80.0,551.0, 115.0,373.0, 92.0,351.0, 106.0,290.0, 133.0,228.0,belay" d="M80.0,551.0C94.0,479.8 114.2,385.7 115.0,373.0C115.8,360.3 93.4,363.7 92.0,351.0C90.6,338.3 98.1,313.7 106.0,290.0C113.9,266.3 122.2,252.8 133.0,228.0" linkedTo="7"/> <path id="21822" points="299.0,548.0, 314.0,454.0, 320.0,439.0, 331.0,352.0, 347.0,244.0, 348.0,200.0,belay" d="M299.0,548.0C305.0,510.4 312.8,460.3 314.0,454.0C315.2,447.7 318.9,445.4 320.0,439.0C321.1,432.6 326.2,386.7 331.0,352.0C335.8,317.3 345.0,261.5 347.0,244.0C349.0,226.5 347.6,217.6 348.0,200.0" linkedTo="8"/> <path id="20432" points="770.0,425.0, 759.0,251.0, 754.0,125.0, 741.0,70.0,lower" d="M770.0,425.0C765.6,355.4 761.7,301.4 759.0,251.0C756.3,200.6 756.2,147.5 754.0,125.0C751.8,102.5 746.2,92.0 741.0,70.0" linkedTo="15"/> <rect id="64381" x="266" y="80" width="78" height="36" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Left end<br/>descent gully" arrowDirection="south_east"/> <path id="34532" points="395.0,165.0, 425.0,210.0, 452.0,237.0, 494.0,359.0, 505.0,490.0," d="M395.0,165.0C407.0,183.0 415.5,198.0 425.0,210.0C434.5,222.0 445.6,223.1 452.0,237.0C458.4,250.9 483.4,308.5 494.0,359.0C504.6,409.5 500.6,437.6 505.0,490.0" lineStyle="dashed"/> <path id="86310" points="390.0,473.0, 396.0,348.0, 404.0,264.0, 393.0,193.0,belay" d="M390.0,473.0C392.4,423.0 393.7,381.7 396.0,348.0C398.3,314.3 404.6,292.7 404.0,264.0C403.4,235.3 397.4,221.4 393.0,193.0" linkedTo="9"/> <path id="35601" points="621.0,457.0, 611.0,224.0, 607.0,185.0, 617.0,165.0, 613.0,92.0,lower" d="M621.0,457.0C617.0,363.8 611.8,239.7 611.0,224.0C610.2,208.3 606.1,193.9 607.0,185.0C607.9,176.1 616.4,173.9 617.0,165.0C617.6,156.1 614.6,121.2 613.0,92.0" linkedTo="12"/> <path id="3226" points="668.0,481.0, 659.0,268.0, 652.0,179.0, 618.0,165.0," d="M668.0,481.0C664.4,395.8 660.9,303.7 659.0,268.0C657.1,232.3 657.4,192.7 652.0,179.0C646.6,165.3 631.6,170.6 618.0,165.0" linkedTo="13"/> <path id="78058" points="535.0,486.0, 531.0,365.0, 535.0,282.0, 535.0,226.0, 533.0,107.0,belay" d="M535.0,486.0C533.4,437.6 531.0,398.2 531.0,365.0C531.0,331.8 534.4,304.4 535.0,282.0C535.6,259.6 535.3,248.4 535.0,226.0C534.7,203.6 533.8,154.6 533.0,107.0" linkedTo="10"/> <path id="92255" points="822.0,322.0, 818.0,294.0, 810.0,213.0, 795.0,135.0, 773.0,51.0,lower" d="M822.0,322.0C820.4,310.8 819.2,305.2 818.0,294.0C816.8,282.8 814.5,244.4 810.0,213.0C805.5,181.6 802.1,166.0 795.0,135.0C787.9,104.0 781.8,84.6 773.0,51.0" linkedTo="16"/> <path id="34470" points="705.0,466.0, 696.0,275.0," d="M705.0,466.0C701.4,389.6 699.6,351.4 696.0,275.0" arrow="true" linkedTo="14"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>7</climb> <climb>8</climb> <climb>9</climb> <climb>10</climb> <climb>12</climb> <climb>13</climb> <climb>14</climb> <climb>15</climb> <climb>16</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="7" name="Good Behaviour" extra="" grade="18" length="25m" stars="" fa="E. Peacock, A. Herington, Sep 1982. Direct start: O. Prall, R. Parkyn, Jan 1992." number="1.">If you're not on your best behavioir, you might get spanked! At the far left of the crag are a pair of twin cracks with a 4m high rock finger leaning against the wall. Chimney up the back of the rock finger and climb to the top of the continuation crack. Do a memorable under-cling out left to the dirty LH crack system and follow this to the top. A good climb that is currently a bit dirty.<br/><br/>Direct start (originally called Dig for Fire, 21): climb the awkward tight and a bit vegetated hand crack straight up past the largish tree and into the easier Good Behaviour line.</climb> <climb id="8" name="Electric Chair" extra="" grade="19" length="20m" stars="*" fa="A. Herington, E. Peacock, Sep 1982." number="2.">A clean line that takes the steep crack left of Incredible Journey. Up the thin crack to a small roof at 3m and turn it on its right to a ledge, then jam and layback the fist crack to the top.</climb> <climb id="9" name="Incredible Journey" extra="" grade="17" length="10m" stars="" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1989." number="3.">Just left of the descent gully is a short, steep hand crack in a shallow groove. Climb the crack past an awkward move to the top.</climb> <climb id="10" name="CC's" extra="" grade="22" length="20m" stars="" fa="D. Gray, R. Parkyn, Jan 1992." number="4.">On the right arête of the descent gully is a thin line that goes through a bulge and up the left edge of the prominent slab. Wires in the thin crack are good and the problem is best tackled by climbing the arête. From the top of the slab follow the easy yellow corner to top. Alternative start: Enchilada (15). Climb the big corner in the descent gully left of CC's to join up with the yellow corner.</climb> <climb id="11" name="Tacho" extra="" grade="20" length="20m" stars="" fa="M. Law, G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978." number="5.">The original route on the prominent slab 2m right of CC's. Climb to the left of the stepped roofs, up a thin crack, to below a bulge. Face climb up the left side of the bulge to the small stance on top. Straight up the slab, over the horizontal seam to the top (protect with a pin or a small cam).</climb> <climb id="12" name="Black Cherry" extra="" grade="20" length="25m" stars="" fa="A. Herington, E. Peacock, Oct 1982." number="6.">2m left of Face It is a vegetated fist crack. Start 1m left of this crack (as for Tacho) and climb up trending R past the stepped roofs. Reach right into the crack to place pro before bridging and laying away up past the bulge on Taco. Once back in the crack, continue to the top, finishing up the final crack of Face It.</climb> <climb id="13" name="Face It" extra="↓" grade="20" length="22m" stars="*" fa="M. Law, G. Child, S. Parsons, Feb 1978 (original). A, Hartshorne, Jan 2019 (direct finish)." number="7.">Stare the beast down. The line just left of the vegetated corner (Quarryman) is a fine route that will keep you working hard. Climb the crack past two blocky ledges to a stance below a prominent horizontal rail. Up to this (crux), and then hand-traverse left to finish up a short crack. Lower-off. <br/><br/>The direct finish up the strange v-groove goes at 22.</climb> <climb id="14" name="Quarryman" extra="" grade="18" length="25m" stars="" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Aug 1999." number="8.">A vegetated corner that might require even further gardening. The twin cracks between Face It and Play Dirty. An epic clean on lead.</climb> <climb id="15" name="Play Dirty" extra="↓" grade="23" length="22m" stars="*" fa="G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978." number="9.">Once dirty and overgrown, recent cleaning has restored a great route which follows a flaring finger crack in the shallow corner right of Quarryman. Finger jam and layback the crack and short vegetated corner above to a lower-off. A #4 Camalot makes the top out more palatable.</climb> <climb id="16" name="Metal Mania" extra="5Þ ↓" grade="25" length="16m" stars="*" fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1992." number="10.">Reachy. Crank up the blunt arête between Play Dirty and Glam. Scramble up to bushy ledge to start just left of Glam. Many people break off right just before the top. Take a #0 Friend for above the last bolt if you want to avoid a long run-out past the more direct finish, which is slightly harder. A 0.3/0.4 is optional between bolt 2 and 3. Now with U Bolts (replacing the carrots).</climb> <text id="119" class="heading3">Lost World Left Side</text> <image id="103" height="873" src="atlantis and left cropped 1200.jpg" legendTitle="Lost World Left Side" legend="true" legendx="7" legendy="11"> <drawing> <path id="81111" points="76.0,787.0, 94.0,642.0, 100.0,582.0, 79.0,577.0, 96.0,514.0, 112.0,469.0,lower" d="M76.0,787.0C83.2,729.0 91.2,666.0 94.0,642.0C96.8,618.0 101.9,590.4 100.0,582.0C98.1,573.6 78.0,585.6 79.0,577.0C80.0,568.4 90.4,532.3 96.0,514.0C101.6,495.7 105.6,487.0 112.0,469.0" linkedTo="13"/> <path id="69943" points="30.0,778.0,label 43.0,726.0, 63.0,614.0, 79.0,578.0," d="M30.0,778.0C35.2,757.2 38.8,747.0 43.0,726.0C47.2,705.0 59.3,629.3 63.0,614.0C66.7,598.7 78.0,586.6 79.0,578.0" linkedTo="12"/> <path id="2327" points="124.0,784.0, 145.0,613.0, 164.0,472.0,belay" d="M124.0,784.0C132.4,715.6 137.8,669.4 145.0,613.0C152.2,556.6 156.4,528.4 164.0,472.0" linkedTo="14"/> <path id="2369" points="155.0,784.0, 177.0,627.0, 195.0,496.0, 209.0,421.0,lower" d="M155.0,784.0C163.8,721.2 169.7,679.4 177.0,627.0C184.3,574.6 190.3,526.2 195.0,496.0C199.7,465.8 203.4,451.0 209.0,421.0" linkedTo="15"/> <path id="97436" points="223.0,715.0, 208.0,680.0, 219.0,597.0, 240.0,422.0,lower" d="M223.0,715.0C217.0,701.0 208.5,695.2 208.0,680.0C207.5,664.8 214.9,630.2 219.0,597.0C223.1,563.8 240.4,437.6 240.0,422.0" linkedTo="16"/> <path id="34459" points="247.0,690.0, 268.0,451.0, 242.0,422.0," d="M247.0,690.0C255.4,594.4 268.3,466.6 268.0,451.0C267.7,435.4 242.4,437.6 242.0,422.0" linkedTo="17"/> <path id="21280" points="513.0,677.0, 520.0,492.0, 525.0,396.0,lower" d="M513.0,677.0C515.8,603.0 518.4,530.4 520.0,492.0C521.6,453.6 523.0,434.4 525.0,396.0" linkedTo="18"/> <path id="29470" points="576.0,676.0, 583.0,377.0, 587.0,220.0, 590.0,183.0,belay" d="M576.0,676.0C578.8,556.4 581.5,439.8 583.0,377.0C584.5,314.2 586.5,234.8 587.0,220.0C587.5,205.2 588.8,197.8 590.0,183.0" linkedTo="19"/> <path id="80410" points="757.0,678.0, 755.0,468.0, 755.0,425.0, 754.0,134.0,belay" d="M757.0,678.0C756.2,594.0 755.1,485.2 755.0,468.0C754.9,450.8 756.0,436.8 755.0,425.0C754.0,413.2 754.4,250.4 754.0,134.0" linkedTo="20"/> <path id="58243" points="813.0,664.0, 815.0,579.0, 820.0,516.0, 822.0,342.0, 818.0,103.0,belay" d="M813.0,664.0C813.8,630.0 813.8,604.3 815.0,579.0C816.2,553.7 819.3,541.3 820.0,516.0C820.7,490.7 822.3,411.6 822.0,342.0C821.7,272.4 819.6,198.6 818.0,103.0" linkedTo="21"/> <path id="29128" points="908.0,560.0, 903.0,390.0, 898.0,275.0, 894.0,118.0,lower" d="M908.0,560.0C906.0,492.0 904.6,436.0 903.0,390.0C901.4,344.0 899.5,321.0 898.0,275.0C896.5,229.0 895.6,180.8 894.0,118.0" linkedTo="23"/> <path id="61419" points="969.0,536.0, 957.0,332.0, 940.0,190.0, 925.0,111.0,belay" d="M969.0,536.0C964.2,454.4 961.8,389.0 957.0,332.0C952.2,275.0 944.6,221.8 940.0,190.0C935.4,158.2 931.0,142.6 925.0,111.0" linkedTo="24"/> <path id="28955" points="949.0,59.0,lower" d="M949.0,59.0"/> <path id="82093" points="1015.0,473.0, 988.0,366.0, 967.0,228.0, 977.0,193.0, 961.0,153.0,lower" d="M1015.0,473.0C1004.2,430.2 996.5,409.3 988.0,366.0C979.5,322.7 967.9,242.5 967.0,228.0C966.1,213.5 978.2,207.5 977.0,193.0C975.8,178.5 967.4,169.0 961.0,153.0" linkedTo="25"/> <path id="12372" points="1048.0,474.0, 1037.0,258.0, 1019.0,121.0,lower" d="M1048.0,474.0C1043.6,387.6 1041.5,313.1 1037.0,258.0C1032.5,202.9 1026.2,175.8 1019.0,121.0" linkedTo="26"/> <path id="51449" points="1076.0,440.0, 1043.0,117.0,belay" d="M1076.0,440.0C1062.8,310.8 1056.2,246.2 1043.0,117.0" linkedTo="27"/> <path id="39540" points="754.0,424.0, 727.0,412.0,label 727.0,154.0,belay" d="M754.0,424.0C753.0,412.2 728.2,423.8 727.0,412.0C725.8,400.2 727.0,257.2 727.0,154.0" linkedTo="108"/> <path id="60853" points="" d=""/> <rect id="46032" x="907" y="26" width="106" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Lactos Rap Station"/> <rect id="58032" x="4" y="566" width="55" height="51" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Southern<br/>Descent<br/>Gully"/> <path id="35902" points="983.0,476.0, 975.0,427.0," d="M983.0,476.0C979.8,456.4 978.2,446.6 975.0,427.0" arrow="true" linkedTo="100"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>12</climb> <climb>13</climb> <climb>14</climb> <climb>15</climb> <climb>16</climb> <climb>17</climb> <climb>18</climb> <climb>19</climb> <climb>108</climb> <climb>20</climb> <climb>21</climb> <climb>23</climb> <climb>24</climb> <climb>100</climb> <climb>25</climb> <climb>26</climb> <climb>27</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="17" name="Glam" extra="↓ " grade="19" length="17m" stars="*" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Sep 1982." number="11.">The prominent line right of Metal Mania, with a short diagonal finger crack / off-width at the top. Scramble up to a bushy ledge to start. Hand-jam to a small ledge, pull up on face holds, then follow the finger crack / off-width to the top. Lower-off the DBB at the top of Metal Mania.</climb> <climb id="18" name="The Space Of Disse" extra="↓" grade="22" length="10m" stars="" fa="O. Prall, Jan 1992." number="12.">A glorified boulder problem. The discontinuous thin crack 5m around the arête left of Atlantis. Up the sustained crack to the horizontal then rap off at the bolt.</climb> <climb id="19" name="Atlantis" extra="" grade="21" length="25m" stars="***" fa="J. Friend, Jan 1975." number="13.">The tradster's testpiece. Not the best crack on the mountain (as claimed by Joe Friend), but it's pretty darn good. left of Savage Journey is a dirty corner chimney and left of this is a fine looking, north facing crack line passing between roofs. Climb the crack through various widths, with the crux just below the top.</climb> <climb id="106" name="Proteus" extra="" grade="20" length="28m" stars="*" fa="K. Robinson, C. Hewer and P. Robinson, Jan 2014." number="14.">A continually absorbing route following the corner between Atlantis and Savage Journey. It can be climbed cleanly on the outside with good moves or, less preferably, by jamming with resultant consequences. Follow the crack until it widens and either lay off the edge, climb the arête or jam until it eases a little. A knee bar helps. About half way up either climb the L face or mantel shelf to reach a small ledge Continue to a short V-chimney and novel finish through a hole behind a large block.<br/> <br/></climb> <climb id="108" name="Hejira" extra="" grade="23" length="30m" stars="**" fa="H Jackson, S Joseph, T Smith, A Donaghue 2015" number="15.">Climb first half of Savage Journey (grade 20 hand crack to this point), until a jug and bolt can be spied on the left face. Swing onto jug and clip the bolt. Breathe deep then take the steep, sustained face and finger cracks above (well protected with wires and small cams).</climb> <climb id="20" name="Savage Journey" extra="" grade="22" length="30m" stars="***" fa="H. Barber, Apr 1975." number="16.">Hands... Off-hands... Fists... This will sort the crack masters from those who are not! On the gently overhanging wall right of Atlantis are two cracks, take the left hand line. Climb the steep and ever widening crack all the way.</climb> <climb id="21" name="Cruise Air" extra="" grade="22" length="30m" stars="**" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Apr 1982." number="17.">The prominent crack right of Savage Journey will test your resolve. Climb the crack system, moving right at the obvious transition to follow the main line, which gradually widens to off-width. Take some big cams for the top (#4, #5).</climb> <climb id="23" name="Cheshire Cat" extra="Þ ↓" grade="31" length="25m" stars="**" fa="K. Robinson, Jan 2004 (29), O Schmidt dec 2025 (31)" number="18.">The arête right of Cruise Air and left of Lactos. Originally climbed by Kim Robinson January 2004 at 29. Subsequently lost several holds and was not freed again until Oliver Schmidt's ascent on 31 December 2025 at grade 31.</climb> <text id="116" class="heading3">Lost World Centre and Central Gully</text> <image id="115" width="1000" height="556" src="Lost World Centre.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Lost World Centre" legendx="229" legendy="192"> <drawing> <path id="31287" points="30.0,531.0, 33.0,481.0, 60.0,330.0, 81.0,190.0,belay" d="M30.0,531.0C31.2,511.0 30.0,500.8 33.0,481.0C36.0,461.2 50.8,385.9 60.0,330.0C69.2,274.1 72.6,246.0 81.0,190.0" linkedTo="24"/> <path id="4766" points="59.0,527.0, 52.0,508.0, 58.0,469.0," d="M59.0,527.0C56.2,519.4 52.1,516.1 52.0,508.0C51.9,499.9 55.6,484.6 58.0,469.0" arrow="true" linkedTo="100"/> <path id="99710" points="83.0,519.0, 94.0,414.0, 104.0,319.0, 122.0,272.0, 123.0,234.0,lower" d="M83.0,519.0C87.4,477.0 90.0,452.0 94.0,414.0C98.0,376.0 100.1,338.8 104.0,319.0C107.9,299.2 118.7,286.8 122.0,272.0C125.3,257.2 122.6,249.2 123.0,234.0" linkedTo="25"/> <path id="77964" points="138.0,166.0,lower" d="M138.0,166.0"/> <path id="60837" points="155.0,513.0, 179.0,332.0, 191.0,284.0, 183.0,261.0, 188.0,222.0, 178.0,203.0," d="M155.0,513.0C164.6,440.6 175.9,351.6 179.0,332.0C182.1,312.4 190.5,293.7 191.0,284.0C191.5,274.3 183.5,270.7 183.0,261.0C182.5,251.3 188.7,230.6 188.0,222.0C187.3,213.4 182.0,210.6 178.0,203.0" linkedTo="27"/> <path id="97093" points="109.0,525.0, 119.0,436.0, 156.0,322.0, 175.0,205.0,lower" d="M109.0,525.0C113.0,489.4 110.9,470.9 119.0,436.0C127.1,401.1 144.8,368.1 156.0,322.0C167.2,275.9 167.4,251.8 175.0,205.0" linkedTo="26"/> <path id="27769" points="413.0,464.0, 422.0,301.0, 425.0,216.0, 406.0,167.0,belay" d="M413.0,464.0C416.6,398.8 420.4,335.0 422.0,301.0C423.6,267.0 427.5,236.9 425.0,216.0C422.5,195.1 413.6,186.6 406.0,167.0" linkedTo="28"/> <path id="16151" points="582.0,415.0, 577.0,313.0, 553.0,248.0, 553.0,148.0,belay" d="M582.0,415.0C580.0,374.2 581.7,340.3 577.0,313.0C572.3,285.7 557.0,275.4 553.0,248.0C549.0,220.6 553.0,188.0 553.0,148.0" linkedTo="34"/> <path id="26279" points="499.0,410.0, 507.0,303.0, 528.0,269.0, 551.0,236.0," d="M499.0,410.0C502.2,367.2 503.8,318.7 507.0,303.0C510.2,287.3 519.2,282.4 528.0,269.0C536.8,255.6 541.8,249.2 551.0,236.0" linkedTo="33"/> <path id="64313" points="636.0,387.0, 608.0,140.0,belay" d="M636.0,387.0C624.8,288.2 619.2,238.8 608.0,140.0" linkedTo="102"/> <path id="4840" points="701.0,374.0, 695.0,266.0, 675.0,167.0,belay" d="M701.0,374.0C698.6,330.8 700.0,306.1 695.0,266.0C690.0,225.9 683.0,206.6 675.0,167.0" linkedTo="35"/> <path id="4832" points="734.0,399.0, 726.0,237.0, 713.0,132.0,belay" d="M734.0,399.0C730.8,334.2 729.3,279.2 726.0,237.0C722.7,194.8 718.2,174.0 713.0,132.0" linkedTo="36"/> <path id="96639" points="777.0,445.0, 778.0,303.0, 820.0,252.0, 790.0,86.0, 799.0,57.0,belay" d="M777.0,445.0C777.4,388.2 772.3,328.8 778.0,303.0C783.7,277.2 818.5,278.4 820.0,252.0C821.5,225.6 791.3,98.1 790.0,86.0C788.7,73.9 795.4,68.6 799.0,57.0" linkedTo="38"/> <path id="26513" points="873.0,443.0, 842.0,287.0, 822.0,239.0," d="M873.0,443.0C860.6,380.6 847.0,307.2 842.0,287.0C837.0,266.8 830.0,258.2 822.0,239.0" linkedTo="39"/> <path id="46758" points="983.0,333.0, 946.0,208.0, 922.0,161.0, 889.0,58.0, 867.0,30.0,belay" d="M983.0,333.0C968.2,283.0 953.1,227.9 946.0,208.0C938.9,188.1 929.5,180.7 922.0,161.0C914.5,141.3 894.5,71.1 889.0,58.0C883.5,44.9 875.8,41.2 867.0,30.0" linkedTo="113"/> <path id="56555" points="927.0,404.0, 898.0,225.0, 845.0,29.0,belay" d="M927.0,404.0C915.4,332.4 913.5,295.9 898.0,225.0C882.5,154.1 866.2,107.4 845.0,29.0" linkedTo="40"/> <rect id="47939" x="100" y="97" width="72" height="51" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Lactos <br/>Rap Station <br/>20m"/> <rect id="35320" x="423" y="125" width="75" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Central Gully" arrowDirection="south"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>24</climb> <climb>100</climb> <climb>25</climb> <climb>26</climb> <climb>27</climb> <climb>28</climb> <climb>33</climb> <climb>34</climb> <climb>102</climb> <climb>35</climb> <climb>36</climb> <climb>38</climb> <climb>39</climb> <climb>40</climb> <climb>113</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="24" name="Lactos" extra="↓" grade="21" length="22m" stars="*" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1982." number="19.">The thin crack immediately left of the chimney (Hoot) down the abseil line. Climb the steep, thin crack-line to a small ledge. Continue up a short finger-crack corner to the top. Harder if you don't use the right wall of the chimney. Rap station at the top (on the right).</climb> <climb id="100" name="Hoot" extra="↓" grade="12" length="22m" stars="" fa="T. McKenny, D. Gray, Apr 2011." number="20.">The chimney. Keep to the outside and finish off left at very top.</climb> <climb id="25" name="Gift of the Gaz" extra="9Þ ↓ " grade="29" length="22m" stars="*" fa="FA H Jackson 2023, bolted by Garry Phillips 2006" number="21.">The arete below the Lactos abseil line. Start up the cracks, then continue up the sustained and technical arete that gradually becomes harder and culminates in a funky very techo crux at the last bolt. The upper section is escapable. <br/><br/></climb> <climb id="26" name="Carhookia" extra="4Þ ↓" grade="25" length="20m" stars="*" fa="N. Selby, 2000." number="22.">Start 3m right of the bottom of Lactos (where the abseil lands you). Optional natural gear at the bottom then 4 bolts to a lower-off.</climb> <climb id="27" name="Heavenly Head Job" extra="" grade="18" length="20m" stars="" fa="Phil Steane, Sep 1982." number="23.">It gets the thumbs up from Bill Clinton. The strange looking corner capped with a roof right of Carhookia. Bridge and jam the corner which becomes progressively harder. Hand jam the roof, step out left (awkward) and continue to the top, or belay and rap from the Carhookia lower-off.</climb> <climb id="28" name="Stone The Crows" extra="" grade="18" length="25m" stars="" fa="L. Closs, I. Lewis, Mar 1973." number="24.">A popular climb in the 70s, with a tricky start that can flummox newcomers. Found 10m left of the central gully and marked by a conspicuous clean off-width crack. Climb the short steep wall (difficult to protect) and continue up the wide crack above until a ledge is reached. Climb either of the two cracks to reach the top.</climb> <climb id="29" name="Cloaca" extra="" grade="15" length="8m" stars="" fa=" D. Gray, D. Rossen, Jan 1992." number="25.">On the southern wall of the central gully. Climb the hands to offwidth crack.</climb> <climb id="30" name="Drayton" extra="" grade="21" length="17m" stars="" fa="D. Gray, A. Hall, Jan 1992." number="26.">A contrived tribute to a dead poet. Start via the bolts on Back on the Borderline, then move left and stem up the corner.</climb> <climb id="31" name="Back On The Borderline" extra="2Þ" grade="20" length="17m" stars="" fa="D. Gray, D. Rossen, Nov 1990." number="27.">Start on the northern wall of the central gully, about 5m left of Commoner's Crown. Climb the wall past 2 bolts, then finish up the hand crack.</climb> <climb id="32" name="Naked Flame" extra="5Þ" grade="23" length="17m" stars="" fa="D. Gray, D. Rossen, Jan 1992." number="28.">The arête 2m right of Back on the Borderline. Follow the line of bolts, avoiding the tempting step onto the left wall. The third clip is pretty tenuous.</climb> <climb id="33" name="Commoner's Crown" extra="" grade="17" length="25m" stars="*" fa="K. Kiernan, K. McConnell, Dec 1975." number="29.">Hard for the grade. The hand crack on the right-hand side of the central gully. Jam to a large ledge (shared with Cries and Whispers) then thug your way up the off-hands corner to the top (save some #3 Camalots!).</climb> <climb id="34" name="Cries And Whispers" extra="" grade="19" length="25m" stars="*" fa="K. Lindorff, K. McConnell, Jan 1976." number="30.">A fine route and a good warm-up, located in the middle of Lost World. Great hand-jamming to an awkward rest stance between twin cracks. Move into the left-hand crack (crux) and follow this to the large ledge. Finish up the off-hand/fist crack as for Commoner's Crown - don't forget to save some #3 Camalots!</climb> <climb id="102" name="Raiders Of The Lost World" extra="" grade="16" length="25m" stars="" fa="J. Fischer, C. Allen, 2007." number="31.">The deep chimney to the right of Cries and Whispers. An old-school strenuous thrutch, completely devoid of any natural gear. Watch out for the large rolling boulder at the top after you steal the precious jewel...</climb> <climb id="35" name="Minstrel In The Gallery" extra="" grade="19" length="15m" stars="" fa="R. Muhlen, B. Kennedy, K. McConnell, Jan 1977." number="32.">15m right of the central gully, twin cracks with an overhang halfway up the cliff. Jam the cleaner righthand crack (though it is still often slippery).</climb> <climb id="36" name="Blood On The Racks" extra="" grade="21" length="20m" stars="*" fa="K. Kiernan, S. Karpiniec, K. McConnell, Dec 1975. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, P. Bigg, L. Shepherd, Jan 1982." number="33.">The short, thin crack on the slab a few metres left of Lost Wanderer. Up the crack to a bushy ledge. Continue left off the ledge easily to the top.</climb> <climb id="37" name="Technicolour Zawn" extra="" grade="12" length="15m" stars="" fa="Phil Steane (solo), Jan 1983." number="34.">The easy chimney/flake with the bush immediately right of Blood on the Racks. Caution - the recent rock fall may have changed this route - the top is very unstable and dangerous.</climb> <text id="118" class="heading3">Lost World Right Side</text> <image id="104" height="552" src="right 4 1200.jpg" legendTitle="Lost World Right Side" legend="true" legendx="872" legendy="321"> <drawing> <path id="11369" points="53.0,459.0, 66.0,362.0, 75.0,323.0, 111.0,309.0, 151.0,289.0, 163.0,193.0, 178.0,74.0, 204.0,38.0,belay" d="M53.0,459.0C58.2,420.2 63.4,377.8 66.0,362.0C68.6,346.2 65.0,334.8 75.0,323.0C85.0,311.2 96.9,315.3 111.0,309.0C125.1,302.7 147.5,306.5 151.0,289.0C154.5,271.5 158.2,231.4 163.0,193.0C167.8,154.6 173.5,91.2 178.0,74.0C182.5,56.8 193.6,52.4 204.0,38.0" linkedTo="38"/> <path id="55603" points="143.0,479.0, 152.0,288.0," d="M143.0,479.0C146.6,402.6 148.5,305.5 152.0,288.0" linkedTo="39"/> <path id="87294" points="241.0,402.0, 247.0,159.0, 253.0,27.0,belay" d="M241.0,402.0C243.4,304.8 245.3,211.8 247.0,159.0C248.7,106.2 250.6,79.8 253.0,27.0" linkedTo="40"/> <path id="52355" points="258.0,383.0, 259.0,338.0," d="M258.0,383.0C258.4,365.0 258.6,356.0 259.0,338.0" linkedTo="41" lineStyle="dotted" arrow="true"/> <path id="77153" points="481.0,323.0, 473.0,57.0,belay" d="M481.0,323.0C477.8,216.6 476.2,163.4 473.0,57.0" linkedTo="42"/> <path id="35732" points="583.0,296.0, 577.0,252.0,label 559.0,58.0,lower" d="M583.0,296.0C582.2,278.3 578.8,269.7 577.0,252.0C575.2,234.3 566.2,135.6 559.0,58.0" linkedTo="43"/> <path id="83475" points="787.0,365.0, 793.0,317.0, 768.0,100.0,belay" d="M787.0,365.0C789.4,345.8 794.4,336.3 793.0,317.0C791.6,297.7 778.0,186.8 768.0,100.0" linkedTo="46"/> <path id="54791" points="841.0,372.0, 830.0,218.0, 808.0,149.0, 813.0,87.0,belay" d="M841.0,372.0C836.6,310.4 834.2,246.7 830.0,218.0C825.8,189.3 811.2,173.7 808.0,149.0C804.8,124.3 811.0,111.8 813.0,87.0" linkedTo="47"/> <path id="11232" points="682.0,340.0, 662.0,89.0,belay" d="M682.0,340.0C674.0,239.6 670.0,189.4 662.0,89.0" linkedTo="45"/> <path id="87810" points="1149.0,494.0, 1098.0,164.0, 1088.0,73.0,lower" d="M1149.0,494.0C1128.6,362.0 1103.3,200.2 1098.0,164.0C1092.7,127.8 1092.0,109.4 1088.0,73.0" linkedTo="50"/> <path id="13582" points="" d="" linkedTo="105"/> <path id="28708" points="" d=""/> <path id="36240" points="588.0,478.0, 584.0,296.0,belay" d="M588.0,478.0C586.4,405.2 584.8,313.7 584.0,296.0" linkedTo="109"/> <path id="96092" points="742.0,356.0, 724.0,266.0, 713.0,146.0, 707.0,87.0,belay" d="M742.0,356.0C734.8,320.0 729.0,302.4 724.0,266.0C719.0,229.6 715.2,169.6 713.0,146.0C710.8,122.4 709.4,110.6 707.0,87.0" linkedTo="105"/> <path id="815" points="290.0,397.0, 291.0,320.0, 287.0,238.0, 284.0,165.0, 284.0,81.0, 269.0,44.0,belay" d="M290.0,397.0C290.4,366.2 291.6,350.8 291.0,320.0C290.4,289.2 288.3,267.2 287.0,238.0C285.7,208.8 284.6,194.2 284.0,165.0C283.4,135.8 286.0,96.8 284.0,81.0C282.0,65.2 275.0,58.8 269.0,44.0" linkedTo="113"/> <path id="16612" points="1095.0,167.0, 1070.0,148.0, 1041.0,62.0," d="M1095.0,167.0C1085.0,159.4 1075.7,159.2 1070.0,148.0C1064.3,136.8 1052.6,96.4 1041.0,62.0" lineStyle="dotted" linkedTo=""/> <path id="99255" points="1113.0,496.0, 1102.0,390.0, 1128.0,364.0," d="M1113.0,496.0C1108.6,453.6 1100.3,404.6 1102.0,390.0C1103.7,375.4 1117.6,374.4 1128.0,364.0" lineStyle="dotted" linkedTo=""/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>38</climb> <climb>39</climb> <climb>40</climb> <climb>41</climb> <climb>113</climb> <climb>42</climb> <climb>109</climb> <climb>43</climb> <climb>45</climb> <climb>105</climb> <climb>46</climb> <climb>47</climb> <climb>50</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="38" name="Lost Wanderer" extra="" grade="18" length="25m" stars="**" fa="I. Lewis, K. Carrigan, Apr 1974. Direct Start: L. Closs, Jul 1975." number="35.">Not hard to locate. The wall with two horizontal breaks about 50m right of the central gully. Climb the short crack on the L, traverse right using the horizontal breaks into the main crack, and follow this to the top. <br/><br/>Direct Start (19): From the fallen block at the base climb directly up the front of the buttress to join the main crack. Not for the faint-hearted, as there is no pro and the landing on the rocks at the base would be rather painful if it all goes pear-shaped.</climb> <climb id="39" name="Wander No More" extra="" grade="21" length="25m" stars="" fa=" D. Gray, S. Eberhardt, Jan 1992." number="36.">The crack on the right side of the arête below Lost Wanderer. Finish up Lost Wanderer from about half height.</climb> <climb id="40" name="Gargamell" extra="Þ ↓ " grade="28" length="20m" stars="**" fa="A. Williams, Jan 2004." number="37.">The bolted arête right of Lost Wanderer. Delicately powerful moves with an engaging crux. Trad anchor on bollards at the top (no DBB).</climb> <climb id="41" name="Hurricane" extra="" grade="14" length="20m" stars="" fa="Basil Rathbone, R. Roffe, Feb 1976." number="38.">The chances of being blown away are slim indeed. The obvious chimney left of Hufflepuff. Squeeze to the top.</climb> <climb id="113" stars="*" extra="" number="39." name="Hufflepuff" length="20m" grade="23" fa="Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, Feb 2023">The clean, well-protected crack just right of Hurricane - a test-piece in flared jamming. Follow the line to to a crux bulge at 6m. Sustained bridging and jamming follows to the top.</climb> <climb id="42" name="Great Southern Land" extra="" grade="21" length="17m" stars="*" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Oct 1982. FFA: G. Cooper, A. Adams, Feb 1986." number="40.">The corner with twin cracks above a scrubby ledge, left of Endorphine. Climb past the scrub from the left and onto the ledge to belay. Bridge and jam the twin cracks, finishing up the left-hand crack. Approachable, but currently a bit dirty.</climb> <climb id="109" name="Opioid " extra="" grade="24/25" length="14m" stars="*" fa="Alex Hartshorne, Crazy John Dec 17" number="41.">The crack below Endorphin is a short finger and layback crack with a couple of bouldery moves. Small / medium wires protect the middle. End on the ledge or link into Endorphin!</climb> <climb id="43" name="Endorphine" extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="20m" stars="**" fa="K. Robinson, Jan 2004." number="42.">Sharp. The bolted arête to the left of Dyazide and right of Great Southern Land, starting from the ledge at half height.</climb> <climb id="44" name="Dyazide" extra="" grade="17" length="12m" stars="*" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982." number="43.">The distinctive north-facing crack starting from a ledge halfway up the cliff, left of a wide corner. Scramble up to the ledge from the right. Jam the hand crack to an awkward rest in the sentry box, then exit using the finger crack (crux).</climb> <climb id="45" name="Don't Eat Yellow Snow" extra="" grade="26" length="15m" stars="*" fa="Phil Steane, et al, Apr 1983. FFA: M. and H. Jackson, Feb 1995." number="44.">Absorbing climbing. The second crack left of Adolf Builds A Bonfire and the third line right of Dyazide. The thin crack up the striped wall. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty. Micro-cams required.</climb> <climb id="105" name="Peaches En Regalia" extra="" grade="20" length="15m" stars="" fa="D. Rollins, A. Shorten, Apr 2013." number="45.">The first line left of Adolf Builds A Bonfire. Some flared and quirky jamming, with an interesting move near the top. Currently dirty and vegetated.</climb> <climb id="46" name="Adolf Builds A Bonfire" extra="" grade="18" length="13m" stars="*" fa="Phil Steane, A. Adams, Jan 1983." number="46.">A 1930’s style literary purge in the making? The big corner left of Opportunity. Up the small slab then hand-jam the corner. Avoid when wet.</climb> <climb id="47" name="Opportunity" extra="" grade="20" length="15m" stars="*" fa="A. Adams, Phil Steane, Mar 1983." number="47.">Much to gain, so little pain. The overhung v-groove crack and sentry box just right of Adolf Builds a Bonfire. Climb the crack to the top past some memorable bulges.</climb> <climb id="48" name="World Wide Adventure" extra="" grade="18" length="22m" stars="" fa="Phil Steane, N. Ward, Mar 1983." number="48.">The L-facing corner below a scrubby ledge 15m left of Rosy Pink Cadillac. A prominent gum tree is growing out of the top crack. Layback the corner, cross the ledge, jam the crack to the gum tree (crux) and finish up the final groove.</climb> <climb id="49" name="Money In The Bank" extra="" grade="21" length="12m" stars="" fa="(1) N. Ward, Phil Steane. (2) C. Maddock, Phil Steane, Apr 1983. FFA: E. Peacock, 1983." number="49.">A safe investment. <br/>1. 8m 21. Climb the seam on the wall left of the Rosy Pink Cadillac off-width. <br/>2. 14m 12. Layback the large loose flake cautiously, finishing easily behind the buttress.</climb> <climb id="50" name="Rose Pink Cadillac" extra="↓" grade="25" length="25m" stars="***" fa="M. McHugh, R. McMahon, 1971. FFA: M. Law, 1978. Direct Start: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1983. Direct Finish: Unknown (probably S. Parsons)." number="50.">An old aid line gone free, following the gorgeous finger crack up the front of the last major buttress on the right end of the cliff. These days the route is normally climbed via both the Direct Start (24) past 2 bolts, and the Direct Finish (25) past another bolt, for a more strenuous and sustained outing. Lower-off at the top.<br/><br/>The original free version (23) starts up the brutal off-width on the left, before stepping right to gain the finger crack. This is followed by swinging around and climbing the the easy (17) corner on the left to finish.</climb> <climb id="107" name="Closed Project" extra="" grade="" length="" stars="" fa="" number="51.">Line of bolts right of Rosy Pink Cadillac</climb> <climb id="51" name="Agent Orange Sunset" extra="" grade="19" length="20m" stars="**" fa="Phil Steane, Nov 1982." number="52.">Unique, weird, and hard for the grade. Do it for the entertainment value. Tackles the prominent diagonal left leaning flake at the right end of the cliff. Struggle up the off-width chimney 3m left of Paladin until you can traverse out left at the flake. Move up the flake to a roof, swing left around the arête and finish up an easy chimney.</climb> <climb id="52" name="Paladin" extra="" grade="17" length="16m" stars="*" fa="P. Morris, P. Cullen, Jan 1977." number="53.">Worth some time if this is near your grade. The short, steep, and slightly dirty hand crack at the far right of the cliff, just right of Agent Orange Sunset. Jam the hand-crack to the base of the off-width, then either finish direct (ugly) or traverse right and finish up the RH crack (better).</climb> <text class="heading2" id="53">New World</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="54">Rock: Dolerite, up to 15m high, slightly off vertical.</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="55">Access: This little crag (GPS MTW350), visible from the bend below the Chalet, is 25 minutes bush bash from Lost World. The easiest route to the cliff is probably to follow the Yellow Spot Track across the boulder field in front of Lost World until it meets the Red Spot Track, just about directly opposite the Lactos abseil (GPS MTW360). Follow the yellow spots steeply down over the edge for about 50m and shortly after the track levels off (just before it veers off down again and to the right), a large cairn on the left hand side (GPS MTW370) marks a track that contours round to the north, marked by tape and occasional cairns, to two bolted arêtes. Alternatively, bush-bash down from the northern end of Lost World down to the top and rap off to reach the base... easier to describe, harder to do...</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="56">Climbing Info: 13 routes, offering a varied selection of cracks and bolted faces. Routes are described L to R and virtually all have initialed starts. Note that the carrot bolts used here have large heads, and will not take the some right-angle RP brackets.</text> <image id="110" src="New World 1.jpg" height="507" width="800" legend="true" legendx="627" legendy="467"> <drawing> <path id="70621" points="78.0,464.0, 173.0,292.0, 248.0,204.0, 244.0,124.0, 286.0,76.0,belay" d="M78.0,464.0C116.0,395.2 147.7,330.7 173.0,292.0C198.3,253.3 235.5,233.5 248.0,204.0C260.5,174.5 236.7,148.5 244.0,124.0C251.3,99.5 269.2,95.2 286.0,76.0" linkedTo="57"/> <path id="67686" points="654.0,409.0, 494.0,258.0, 474.0,138.0, 488.0,85.0, 461.0,50.0,belay" d="M654.0,409.0C590.0,348.6 520.9,298.5 494.0,258.0C467.1,217.5 474.8,159.9 474.0,138.0C473.2,116.1 490.6,102.5 488.0,85.0C485.4,67.5 471.8,64.0 461.0,50.0" linkedTo="58"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>57</climb> <climb>58</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="57" name="Cranky Girl" extra="3Þ ↓" grade="24" length="10m" stars="*" fa="A. Williams, Jan 2002." number="54.">The first climb on the craglet (GPS MTW380) takes the arête of the column left of Dvorak Goes Metal.</climb> <climb id="58" name="Dvorak Goes Metal" extra="Þ" grade="20" length="12m" stars="**" fa="R. Parkyn, Apr 1991." number="55.">The route follows the superb looking arête, 5m right of Cranky Girl. Scramble to the base of the arête then launch onto the arête proper. Three bolts (carrots) protect the excellent and technical face climbing above, single bolt belay (FH).</climb> <image id="111" src="New World 2.jpg" height="631" width="1000" legend="true" legendx="813" legendy="522"> <drawing> <path id="56880" points="20.0,564.0, 141.0,309.0, 231.0,184.0," d="M20.0,564.0C68.4,462.0 111.1,362.9 141.0,309.0C170.9,255.1 195.0,234.0 231.0,184.0" lineStyle="solid" linkedTo="62"/> <path id="1139" points="30.0,605.0, 93.0,471.0, 130.0,461.0, 161.0,369.0, 225.0,240.0, 261.0,175.0," d="M30.0,605.0C55.2,551.4 84.3,483.6 93.0,471.0C101.7,458.4 121.5,473.8 130.0,461.0C138.5,448.2 145.7,404.7 161.0,369.0C176.3,333.3 211.4,266.4 225.0,240.0C238.6,213.6 246.6,201.0 261.0,175.0" lineStyle="solid" linkedTo="63"/> <path id="95509" points="10.0,520.0, 63.0,425.0, 54.0,386.0, 97.0,278.0, 144.0,169.0," lineStyle="solid" d="M10.0,520.0C31.2,482.0 58.0,440.2 63.0,425.0C68.0,409.8 50.4,401.6 54.0,386.0C57.6,370.4 79.2,321.0 97.0,278.0C114.8,235.0 125.2,212.6 144.0,169.0" linkedTo="61"/> <path id="57036" points="211.0,604.0, 240.0,511.0, 307.0,254.0, 349.0,167.0," lineStyle="solid" d="M211.0,604.0C222.6,566.8 229.7,548.6 240.0,511.0C250.3,473.4 295.3,290.8 307.0,254.0C318.7,217.2 332.2,201.8 349.0,167.0" linkedTo="64"/> <path id="64757" points="239.0,585.0, 258.0,528.0, 296.0,494.0, 309.0,411.0, 358.0,211.0, 393.0,121.0," lineStyle="solid" d="M239.0,585.0C246.6,562.2 247.2,545.3 258.0,528.0C268.8,510.7 287.9,512.7 296.0,494.0C304.1,475.3 301.8,443.8 309.0,411.0C316.2,378.2 347.3,248.1 358.0,211.0C368.7,173.9 379.0,157.0 393.0,121.0" linkedTo="65"/> <path id="13553" points="641.0,582.0, 651.0,425.0, 624.0,349.0, 612.0,263.0, 591.0,187.0, 592.0,89.0," lineStyle="solid" d="M641.0,582.0C645.0,519.2 653.3,457.2 651.0,425.0C648.7,392.8 631.6,380.4 624.0,349.0C616.4,317.6 618.3,293.9 612.0,263.0C605.7,232.1 594.6,218.3 591.0,187.0C587.4,155.7 591.6,128.2 592.0,89.0" linkedTo="68"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>61</climb> <climb>62</climb> <climb>63</climb> <climb>64</climb> <climb>65</climb> <climb>68</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="59" name="Friends With Cameras for Eyes" extra="" numbergrade="16" starslength="*15m" idstars="59*" fa="O. Prall, May 1991." number="56.">Start about 12m Rright of the DGM. A few bouldery moves lead to a twin crack system made of loose blocks and flakes.</climb> <climb extraid="" grade="15" length="16m"60" name="Catcher In The Rye" extra="" numbergrade="15" starslength="16m" idstars="60" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." number="57.">About 2m Rright of FWCFE. Hand jam to two blocks and a bush. Continue up the crack above until a traverse Lleft across the wall to a "horn" can be made, to avoid an off offwidthwidth crack. Finish up the hand crack Rright of the arête.</climb> <climb extraid="Þ61" gradename="20Quintessence of Clarity" lengthextra="15mÞ" namegrade="Quintessence of Clarity20" numberlength="15m" stars="*" id="61" fa="M. Perchard, May 1991." number="58.">The face/arête just Lleft of Pinkinsane. Climb the face or arête behind the myrtle to the first of two carrots (run out). Continue past the difficulties until it eases. Ascend easily and then finish with moves of varying degrees of difficulty. Pro can be arranged in Pinkinsane to avoid initial runout.</climb> <climb extraid="62" gradename="16Pinkinsane" lengthextra="16m" namegrade="Pinkinsane16" starslength="16m" idstars="62" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." number="59.">Jam the fist crack just Rright of the above route, terminating in an easy chimney.</climb> <climb extraid="Þ" grade="24" length="15m"63" name="Would Jesus Play Guitar in a Thrash Metal Band" extra="Þ" numbergrade="24" starslength="*15m" idstars="63*" fa="O. Prall, Apr 1991." number="60.">Rewarding and technical. Start 1m Rright of Pinkinsane. Climb the face past two bolts (carrots) on thin layaway holds (crux). Continue up the hand crack which begins at 7m.</climb> <climb id="64" name="Procol Harum" extra="" grade="15" length="16m" name="Procol Harum" number="" stars="**" id="64" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." number="61.">A pearler! Hand jam the line 4m Rright of Pinkinsane finishing up a short slab on the Lleft.</climb> <climb extraid="Þ65" gradename="23Toxastoma par Excellance" lengthextra="15mÞ" namegrade="Toxastoma par Excellance23" numberlength="15m" stars="**" id="65" fa="M. Perchard, Apr 1991." number="62.">A sustained and technical climb (if you stay on route) which climbs the face between Procol Harum and Tales of Power. Using small holds and both arêtes climb to the base of the layback flake. Up this then move L (crux) to a finger crack. Up this for 3m, then finish back Rright up the blank wall above. (4 BRs4BRs, carrots).</climb> <climb extraid="66" gradename="17Tales Of Power" lengthextra="16m" namegrade="Tales Of Power17" starslength="*16m" idstars="66*" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." number="63.">The line 2m R of Procol Harum. A thin start, followed by hand jams and some pleasant offwidth moves.</climb> <climb extraid="67" gradename="16Semi Detached Reality" lengthextra="16m" namegrade="Semi Detached Reality16" starslength="16m" idstars="67" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." number="64.">The crack 4m Rright of Tales of Power that splits into two half way up. Steep hand jams, followed by a traverse into the LHleft hand line. </climb> <climb extraid="68" gradename="20Parkynsane" lengthextra="20m" namegrade="Parkynsane20" numberlength="20m" stars="" id="68" fa="R. Parkyn, Apr 1991." number="65.">Starts just Rright of Semi Detached Reality. A wandering beginning leads to a thin crack near the right RHhand edge of the high orange wall. Climb the crack and arête just to the Rright. Well protected.</climb> <climb id="69" name="Barbwire Canoe" extra="" grade="6 " length="16m" name="Barbwire Canoe" stars="" id="69" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." number="66.">The easy corner just Rright of the main cliff, finishing with a desperate move.</climb> <text class="heading2" id="70">Test World <World</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="71">Rock: Dolerite face, about 15m high. It is not like us to be judgmental or disparaging, but this is shite. It might be worth a visit if you are really, really bored with everything else on the mountain, or with life itself. </text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="72">Access: Aaaagh! Located 150m to the south of Lost World, at the same altitude (GPS MTW390). From Good Behaviour scramble and bush-bash south (towards the road) and down around a rock spur or two then back uphill to reach the crag. Alternatively, a direct approach to the top as an offshoot from the usual route into Lost World from is less scrubby but very difficult to find. Take the GPS... and a machete... or flame thrower... </text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="73">Climbing Info: The "crag" faces the Organ Pipes and is split by only 4 lines, the RH of which is vegetated with tea tree. Routes are described from L to R. </text> <climb extraid="" grade="17" length="15m74" name="Six Months In A Leaky Test Tube" extra="" numbergrade="17" starslength="15m" idstars="74" fa="Phil Steane, G. Cooper, 1982." number="67.">The left LHhand line. Start behind the scrub and continue up the Lleft trending crack.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="14" length="15m <climb id="75" name="Testing One Two Three" extra="" numbergrade="14" starslength="15m" idstars="75" fa="Phil Steane, G. Cooper, 1982." number="68.">The chimney, second from the Lleft, with a big chockstone at half height.</climb> <climb extraid="" grade="17" length="15m76" name="My Mother Was A Test Tube" extra="" grade="17" starslength="15m" idstars="76" fa="G. Cooper, Phil Steane, 1982." number="69.">The third crack with the awkward looking start. Up the crack to the ledge and continue easily to top.</climb><textclimb> <text class="heading2" id="77">Micro World</text><texttext> <text class="indentedHeader" id="78">Rock: North facing dolerite buttresses up to 10m</text><texttext> <text class="indentedHeader" id="79">Access: The crag is due north of the big bend, on the other side of the ridge, and faces north. The easiest way to get there is to walk up the red dot track to the top of the hill. After it goes up past the rock step, turn sharply L and follow the ridge along west about 200m. Angle north and you will pick up some old cairns and an old track, which heads down to the crag on its western end.</text><texttext> <text class="indentedHeader" id="80">Climbing Info: This new little crag makes up for its lack of height by easy access, a sunny aspect, and user friendly climbing. Its probably the sunniest crag on the mountain. There is potential for a couple more lines to be done here. Climbs are described Lleft to Rright.</text><climbtext> <climb id="93" stars="*" name="Smear Like a Madman" lengthextra="8m3Þ ↓ " grade="20" extralength="3Þ ↓ 8m" stars="*" fa="Dave Humphries, Tony McKenny, Apr 2010." number="70.">Superb climbing in the corner 3m Lleft of Georgie's climb. Stem, bridge and smear to the top. Use the DBB on Dirty Dog.</climb><climbclimb> <climb id="91" name="Georgie's Climb" starsextra="*↓" lengthgrade="8m21" gradelength="218m" extrastars="↓*" fa="Jon Nermut, Apr 2010 (with pre-placed gear)." number="71.">The little roof about 5m Lleft of Little Ripper. Climb up the face to a tricky boulder problem at the roof. Continue up to the DBB on Dirty Dog.</climb><climbclimb> <climb id="92" name="Dirty Dog" lengthextra="10m↓" grade="14" length="10m" extrastars="↓" fa="Jon Nermut, Apr 2010." number="72.">The crack and corner Rright of Georgie's Climb. DBB.</climb><climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="21" length="8m" name="Little Ripper" number="LR" stars="*" id="81climb> <climb id="81" name="Little Ripper" extra="3Þ ↓" grade="21" length="8m" stars="*" fa="Jon Nermut, Mar 2010." number="73.">Around on the left LHhand side of the crag is a face with two lines. Climb the Lleft arête past 3 FH to DBB. You can get a small cam in under the block at the top to protect the exit.</climb><climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="8mclimb> <climb id="82" name="Rough as Guts" extra="↓" numbergrade="RAG20" starslength="8m" idstars="82" fa="Dave Humphries, Mar 2010." number="74.">The burly crack to the Rright of Little Ripper. One FH protects the start, then there is bomber gear in the crack. Use the DBB on Little Ripper.</climb><climb Ripper.</climb> <climb id="94" name="Hawk Eye" lengthextra="8m5Þ" grade="20" length="8m" extrastars="5Þ*" fa="Will Bartlett, Sam Peyr, Apr 2010." starsnumber="*75.">The arête and face around the corner Rright from Rough as Guts. A tricky start gives way to pleasant climbing, head a move or two Lleft at the last bolt. DBB on block.</climb><climbclimb> <climb id="95" name="Dying Breed" lengthextra="12mÞ" grade="26" length="12m" stars="**" fa="Will Bartlett, May 2010." extranumber="Þ76.">The steep, thin seam on the pillar right of Hawk Eye is fused to begin with but then opens to accept gear. Start bridging in the corner, then step onto the face at the first bolt. Awesome climbing using both aretes and seam past two more bolts. There is a crucial medium wire/cam placement higher up. Finish up seam to DBB on ledge.</climb><image noPrint="falseclimb> <image id="83" height="667" src="Main Topo.jpg" width="500" id="83" legend="true" legendx="10" legendy="10"><legend>81</legend><legend>82</legend><legend>84</legend></image><climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="10m" name="Flood Control" number="FC" noPrint="false"> <legend>81</legend> <legend>82</legend> <legend>84</legend> </image> <climb id="84" name="Flood Control" extra="↓" grade="17" length="10m" stars="*" id="84" fa="Dave Humphries, Feb 2010 2010." number="77.">Climb the seam and crack up the middle of the face to DBB. The gear gets better with height (it's a bit thin down low).</climb><image noPrint="falseclimb> <image id="85" height="667" src="CC topo.jpg" width="500" id="85" legend="true" legendx="10" legendy="10"><legend>96</legend><legend>86</legend><legend>90</legend></image><climb" noPrint="false"> <legend>96</legend> <legend>86</legend> <legend>90</legend> </image> <climb id="96" name="Lost and Found" extra="" grade="14" length="10m" stars="" fa="Tony McKenny, Alan Beech, 25 April 2010." number="LF78.">The "long" crack a few metres to the Rright of Flood Control, 2m Lleft of Collar Cool. Short but sweet.</climb><climb extra="3Þ" grade="22" length="8mclimb> <climb id="86" name="18 Collar Cool" extra="3Þ" numbergrade="CC22" starslength="*8m" idstars="86*" fa="Dave Humphries, Apr 2010." number="79.">Great climbing up the arête. Stick clip the first bolt then head for the layaways and jugs.</climb><climbclimb> <climb id="90" name="I'd Rather Be Eating a Super Schnitzel" extra="" grade="15" length="6m" gradestars="15" fa="Alex Lewis, Will Bartlett, Mar 2010." number="IR80.">The prominent crack in the corner a few metres Rright of 18 Collar Cool. This steep, dirty, mossy off-hand crack is every bit as good as it sounds! Jam to the top, mantle into the sharp bushes and step Lleft to DBB on 18 Collar Cool.</climb><image noPrint="falseclimb> <image id="87" height="667" src="sc2 Topo.jpg" width="500" id="87" legend="true" legendx="10" legendy="10"><legend>88</legend><legend>89</legend></image><climb extra="↓" grade="21" length="6m" noPrint="false"> <legend>88</legend> <legend>89</legend> </image> <climb id="88" name="Short Climb 2" extra="↓" numbergrade="SC221" starslength="6m" idstars="88" fa="Dave Humphries, Feb 2010." number="81.">The first bit of rock you come to on the right RHhand end of the crag is a tiny buttress with some bolts in it. Climb the face past a FH and into the thin crack, which takes small cams.</climb><climb extra="2Þ ↓" grade="18" length="6m" name="Expectorant" number="E" stars="" id="89climb> <climb id="89" name="Expectorant" extra="2Þ ↓" grade="18" length="6m" stars="" fa="Dave Humphries, Feb 2010." number="82.">The detached pillar just to the Rright has 2 bolts. Climb up and over to the DBB on the previous climb. A bit contrived... but fun all the same.</climb> </guide> |
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