Page History

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<guide><header
        > 
  <header access="ItThe islandowner possibleof tothe driveoriginal toaccess withinrequests fiftythat metersclimbers ofaccess the cliff. There used to be a locked gate at the bottom up Handsome Caves Road, which is a right turn 1.2km from the start of the roadgravel, but this is no longer present. The crag is on Crown Land, administered by and about 0.75 km beyond house no. 658. He also owns the land crossed using this road, just before the crag, but is happy for climbers to access the cliff this way. The crag itself is on Crown Land, administered by Forestry Tasmania. To get there head up to New Norfolk and cross to the northern side of the Derwent River. Head up river and take the first Rright, followed by a Lleft. Follow this through the outer suburbs of New Norfolk to the T-junction: to get to the cliff turn Rright along Back River Road. The turn-off to the crag is about 2km2.75km along Back River Road from the T-junction. TurnEnter RHandsome atCave theRd drivewayand topark houseon numbersthe 658,green 660patch &amp;on 662the (thisleft. isIf theyou middlehave ofa 34x4 dirtyou tracks,can withkeep adriving signon forHandsome DerwentCave ValleyRd Timberover Craft)some andrough driveterrain for(massive anotherditches 1kmhave beforebeen reachingsmoothed whereover the2022, lockedbut gateit usedis tostill berough. onAt the left.top of Afterthe afirst fewhill, kilometerswhere ofthe ziggingtwo andtracks zaggingmerge upagain, a steep, roughfollow the road, whento itthe flattensleft, outpast a bitshack takeon athe trackleft whichand turnskeep off sharply todriving/hiking until you get to a recently bulldozed area above which the left.track Thenarrows cragto willbecome soonunsuitable befor visibledriving on(even thea right4WD).  The road is &quot;good funold gate with the sign that said &quot;Bushwalker's inAccess ato 2wdHandsome -Caves, thePrivate extraProperty clearanceBoth and tractionSides of a softroader makes the drive a bit more comfortable. If you can't get your car up the road the walk up isn't too grim (takes about 30 minutes)."
        acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets."
        history=""
        intro="This is a crag you either love or hate. I love it but others have described it as &quot;loose&quot;, &quot;dirty&quot;, &quot;sandy&quot; and even &quot;chossy&quot;. Don't listen to any of that rubbish though - just go there and see what you think. Handsome Crag is unique amongst the Hobart craglets for several reasons. Firstly, there is dominance of overhangs which is something conspicuously absent on dolerite. Secondly, the harder climbs are mostly quite user-friendly. Finally, the north facing aspect makes it a warm spot, even in mid-winter. Most of the climbs are identified by small painted initials at their base but the bolts are an eclectic bunch, some &quot;U&quot;s, and a mix of large- and small-head carrots, sometimes on the same climb - take a a variety of bracket sizes with you."
        name="Handsome Crag" new="false"
        rock="Vertical to overhanging sandstone, mostly bolted climbs but a number need gear as well."
        sun="All day sun" walk="2 min"/><image new="false"
        noPrint="false" number="null." src="handsomeMap.png"
        width=""/><text
        class="text">Further left from the &quot;main&quot; part of the cliff are two climbs. From Hard and Fast go left up the descent track then left again along to a small cliff.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="10m"
        name="Orchid Corner">The sloping corner crack. John Domeney, May/93.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="10m"
        name="Eat, Shit, Bolt">The short hand crack. John Domeney, Apr/93.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="10m" name="Desert Haircut"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Start 20m L of Hard and Fast. Just after walking through a notch, is a short corner containing twin hand cracks and a lip at the top. Climb the cracks to a R-leading ramp. Allan Adams, May/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="7m" name="Licken Lichen" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Start 8m R of Desert Haircut. Looks pretty worthless. N.Tidswell, May/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="25" length="18m" name="Hammerhead" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Takes the staircase shaped crack L of Hard and Fast. Traverse L to the base of the finger crack, up this, then rightwards to the fixed wire on Hard and Fast. All natural gear (cams). Mick Berry, 1991.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="18m" name="Hard and Fast"
        stars=" ** ">Power up the crack in the overhanging wall which has a horizontal at half height. Good protection all the way and a fixed wire, makes this an excellent lead. Don't succumb to the temptation of a top-rope, as many do. TR Pete Steane. FA Gavin Jensen, Aug/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="18m" name="Suck the Kumara"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Ascend the gaping cleft on the overhanging wall R of Hard and Fast. Surmount the large clitoris-like feature at 2/3 height. Finish directly. This route is good fun and not as hideous as it may look. Honestly! Well; some have described it as &quot;a cunt of a root&quot; (sic). Take some big friends as well as some wires. Roger Parkyn, Jul/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="12m" name="Palpate the Banana"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">Start off the block and climb the steep wall R of Suck the Kumara. The bolt clip is best facilitated by the use of a stick (plenty around). An excellent 2 and/or 2½ Friend in a pocket protects the climbing above. A second size 2 friend can be used to protect the final move if necessary. Roger Parkyn, Jan/91.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="12m" name="Tora! Tora! Flora!"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Starts up the corner R of Palpate the Banana. Climb the awkward block and follow the corner to the top. Quite a pleasant route. Stephen Bunton, Sep/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Blitz Siege" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Starts as for Tora Tora Flora. From the top of the starting block, step R and climb the thin crack to the summit. Stephen Bunton, Sep/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="10" length="20m" name="Garden Party" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Starts behind the first big black tree 15m to the R of Hard and Fast. Climb the chimney-crack to a ledge at 5m, then traverse 4m R through some vegetation, and climb up and left slightly into a shallow corner which has a tricky exit. This climb looks poxy and, to my knowledge, no-one has been stupid enough to do a second ascent. W.Jensen, Nov/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="35m" name="Social Security"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Climb the finger crack 5m L of Stiff Upper Lip which leads to a small ledge with a tree at about 7m. Continue past this and exit L to a big ledge. Move up to clip a bolt then traverse R to a large flake. Climb the hand-crack above this. Follow the crack system to the top using some pretty skinny wires. Needs a brush. Gavin Jensen, May/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Stiff Upper Lip"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Just L of Blinded by the Beacon is a shallow right-facing vegetated corner. Climb this to a small ledge and continue above to a block-filled easy corner. Move slightly R  to clip a bolt and surmount the bulge above it. Climb the corner and flake above to finish. Stuart Scott, Aug/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Blinded by the Beacon"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">Start by bridging past a sandy cave past the U-bolt. A carrot protects face climbing to a cave at half-height. Clip a second U-bolt and/or the second carrot, and continue above, trending slightly leftwards before stepping R to finish. Belay or rap off the large tree. Roger Parkyn, Jul/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="Dredge on an Edge"
        stars=" * ">The start, 5m right of Blinded by the Beacon is almost always wet. Don't be put off as the climbing above is excellent and physical. The most popular method is to stick-clip the first bolt (with fixed hanger) and crank past the wet patch. There are two more hangered bolts above, but wires and friends are also needed. At the top move carefully leftwards to belay at the same tree as for Blinded by the Beacon. Richard Marshall, May/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="35m" name="Fear of Flying"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">This route ascends the orange dihedral on the steep wall above and right of Dredge on an Edge. Named in honour of its spaced protection, this route lacks popularity. Although undeniably scary the gear is probably adequate, so give it a go if you're feeling bold. The climbing itself is excellent and the position stunning. Start 15m R of Dredge on an Edge, climb past a dirty sentry box to a ledge at 6m. Continue up the hand-crack above till it runs out then traverse L 3m to where the dihedral starts. The crux of the climb is exiting onto the slab above the dihedral. Doug Fife, Jun/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Broke Bored and Ignored"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Grovel up the gully L of Space Master to belay at a horizontally growing gum tree on the L about 10m off the deck. Climb the crack and face to a small ledge. The brushed path continues to the top.  Allan Adams, Jul/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="Space Master" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">After grovelling up the gully the climbing begins by traversing the prominent horizontal rightwards into the middle of the steep orange wall. Small friends and medium sized wires protect the climbing up the thin crack. Move R onto easier ground then up, to reach the base of the arête directly above the thin crack climbed below. Two bolts protect the climbing to the summit. The first of them is clipped blind. W.Jensen, Dec/88.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="23" length="40m" name="Space Cadet" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">A captivating overhanging arête on the Space Master buttress, the visual appeal of this line is enhanced by being bristling with bolts. Start well to the R by an unpleasant scramble at the base of a large gully. Traverse leftwards to the climb passing one bolt before the arête itself is reached. Follow three bolts up the arête. After the fourth bolt it is possible to escape by traversing L across the horizontal to where Space Master starts. The continuation of the climb is not as hard as the arête below and I would highly recommend it. Continue a small distance further up then traverse R to clip a bolt below a bulge. Climb the bulge to a sloping ledge then finish up an easy jam crack. Gavin Jensen, Dec/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="10m"
        name="Logarithm">I don't know anyone who's bothered to repeat this route as it involves abseiling from above to set up a top-rope. Probably not that much of a chore but not very inspiring, eh. Anyway the route follows a brushed dihedral between the finishes of Space Master and Space Cadet, starting from the slopey ledge. Doug Fife, May/88.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="25" length="20m" name="Just Too Hip"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Crank up the steep arête (2 bolts with fixed hangers) to join Enola Gay at the end of the traverse. Continue up for a few meters then blast out rightwards through the roof (more bolts). Spectacular. The lower part, the arête, makes a good alternative start to Enola Gay (grade 22). Evan Peacock, 1992-3.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="40m" name="Enola Gay" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="**">1) 20m 19. Start underneath the mega-overhang by ascending a tight groove with a single bolt. The traverse leftwards underneath the overhang is scantily protected but quite easy; take care on the suss rock though. The climbing hots up after you move around the arête and power up the overhanging wall, very spectacular and not as hard as it looks. Belay on the ledge beyond the bird shit.
2) 15m 20. The straight crack (fingers to hands) leads to the summit. It gets pretty steamy towards the top. D.Fife, A.Adams, Jun/88.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="22" length="35m" name="Raptor" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">This is the RH way past the mega-overhang of Enola Gay.
1) 20m 22. Three bolts. The start is marked by a bolt at 5m. Climb the corner under the roof (crux). Continue leftwards then go up the chimney to belay on a ledge. Take some gear for the chimney and the belay (medium sized friends).
2) 15m 21. Climb up the arête, clip the second bolt then traverse L. Pass two more bolts then traverse R to finish.  Stefan Eberhard, Mar/91.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="22" length="30m" name="Gorilla Monsoon"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="**">Climb the best of Raptor and then instead of moving L to finish the first pitch, go R and crank through the roof (the square looking one from below). Spectacular. Stefan Eberhard, 1991.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="25" length="35m" name="Assagai" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Classy hard face climbing which is well protected by bolts. Unfortunately, however, getting to the first bolt is not brilliantly protected and it is not an easy clip. Start the climb from the tree of Leaky Leg bag. After clipping the fifth bolt, climb the overhang by moving L and using a large hole. Gavin Jensen, Aug/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="35m" name="Leaky Leg Bag"
        stars=" * ">Poorly protected but easy climbing leads to a tree at about 10m. Climb the elegant dihedral above the tree. The finish is harder than it looks. Peter Steane, May/88.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="23" length="30m" name="Via Ferrata" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="**">This route starts by wandering up the face R of Leaky Leg bag. Follow the bolts up the arête R of Leaky Leg bag. Sustained and pleasant. There are six bolts in total. Roger Parkyn, Nov/89.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="24" length="30m" name="Oodles of Noodles"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Go up Via Ferrata to the fourth bolt. Instead of going L continue up to the pocky wall R of Via Ferrata. Follow the line of 3 bolts with fixed hangers (the last is hard to clip). The crux is dynoing to a pocket before traversing into Via Ferrata to finish. Evan Peacock, 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="20" length="30m" name="Actus Reus" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">The climb begins 30m R of Leaky Leg bag. Scramble to the ledge at 5m then climb the diagonal finger crackRoad&quot; seems to have been removed in these recent works (2022). Park in a disturbed area to the side, so as to not block the road. &lt;br/&gt;From here follow the foot track up the hill. There are occasional pink tags along this track. At 15 minutes the track goes under Handsome Caves, with their honey combed rock formations, keep going up left up an old track up the ramp. This is relatively easy to follow if you stay observant and then look for cairns on the uphill side where they mark a divergence from the old track. The cairned track crosses some private land owned by Corey, who is fine with going that way and asks people to &quot;Leave everything as you find it&quot;. Please show some courtesy and respect for the area as maintaining good relations with landowners is key to future access. &lt;br/&gt;At the top of the cairned track you will arrive at the old access road. Here you will have to turn right and walk another 10 minutes to get to the crag (this also takes you past the access for the Stronghold - heading left takes you to the Weakhold; both of these areas are marked with cairns). Total walk from end of 4WD track is 40 mins" acknowledgement="Originally by Al Adams for Climbers Club of Tasmania. Updated by Roger Parkyn and published in Craglets." history="" intro="Handsome Crag was first developed in the late eighties and early nineties but then received little attention until around 2010 when the gate was off the road for a while. Unfortunately the easy access is closed again so this crag will probably languish. It's north facing aspect makes it a warm spot, even in mid-winter - its probably the best winter crag close to Hobart. Most of the climbs are identified by small painted initials at their base. The recently re-bolted routes are fully equipped with U-bolts and lower-offs (although in many cases the old bolts still need to removed).  The older routes use a range of bolts (of varying quality); some &quot;U&quot;s, and a mix of large- and small-head carrots, sometimes on the same climb - take a a variety of bracket sizes with you. Over time hopefully all the carrots will get removed and replaced with glue-ins." name="Handsome Crag" rock="Vertical to overhanging sandstone, mostly bolted climbs but a number need gear as well." sun="All day sun" walk="50-60  min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/>
  <text id="81" class="heading3">Crag Steward</text>
  <text id="82" class="text">Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (handsomecrag@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.</text>  
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    <point pid="4" latitude="-42.73307" longitude="147.07305" easting="505979" northing="5268823" zone="55G" code="HAN100" description="Handsome Cave Road parking"/> 
  </gps>  
  <text id="59" class="heading3">Orchid Corner Area</text>  
  <text class="text" id="4">Further left from the "main" part of the cliff are two climbs. From Hard and Fast go left up the descent track then left again along to a small cliff.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Orchid Corner" id="5" fa="John Domeney, May 1993.">The sloping corner crack.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Eat, Shit, Bolt" id="6" fa="John Domeney, Apr 1993.">The short hand crack.</climb>  
  <text id="60" class="heading3">Hard and Fast Area</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="10m" name="Desert Haircut" number="" stars="" id="7" fa="A. Adams, S. Stubbs, May 1988.">Start 20m left of Hard and Fast. Just after walking through a notch, is a short corner containing twin hand cracks and a lip at the top. Climb the cracks to a right-leading ramp.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="7m" name="Licken Lichen" number="" stars="" id="8" fa="M. Tidswell, H. Dodd, May 1988.">Looks pretty worthless. The short right facing corner 8m right of Desert Haircut that starts off a large block.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="18m" name="Hammerhead" number="" stars="" id="9" fa="Mick Berry, 1991.">Takes the staircase shaped crack left of Hard and Fast. Traverse left to the base of the finger crack, up this, then rightwards to the fixed wire on Hard and Fast. All natural gear (cams).</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="18m" name="Hard and Fast" stars="" id="10" fa="TR Pete Steane. FA G. Jensen, J. Hayden, Aug 1988." number="">Power up the crack in the overhanging wall which has a horizontal at half height. Good protection all the way and a fixed wire, makes this an excellent lead. Don't succumb to the temptation of a top-rope, as many do.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="18m" name="Suck the Kumara" number="" stars="" id="11" fa="Roger Parkyn, Jul 1989.">Ascend the gaping cleft on the overhanging wall R of Hard and Fast. Surmount the large blob at 2/3 height. Finish directly. This route is good fun and not as hideous as it may look. Honestly! Take some big friends as well as some wires.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="12m" name="Palpate the Banana" number="" stars="*" id="12" fa="Roger Parkyn, Jan 1991.">Start off the block and climb the steep wall right of Suck the Kumara. The bolt clip is best facilitated by the use of a stick (plenty around). An excellent 2 and/or 2½ Friend in a pocket protects the climbing above. A second size 2 friend can be used to protect the final move if necessary.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="11" length="12m" name="Tora! Tora! Flora!" number="" stars="" id="13" fa="Stephen Bunton, Sep 1989.">Starts up the corner R of Palpate the Banana. Climb the awkward block and follow the corner to the top. Quite a pleasant route.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Blitz Siege" number="" stars="" id="14" fa="Stephen Bunton, Sep 1989.">Starts as for Tora Tora Flora. From the top of the starting block, step R and climb the thin crack to the summit.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="10" length="20m" name="Garden Party" number="" stars="" id="15" fa="W.Jensen, V. Thorrens,, Nov 1988.">Starts behind the first big black tree 15m to the right of Hard and Fast. Climb the chimney-crack to a ledge at 5m, then traverse 4m right through some vegetation, and climb up and left slightly into a shallow corner which has a tricky exit. This climb looks poxy and, to my knowledge, no-one has been stupid enough to do a second ascent.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="35m" name="Social Security" number="" stars="" id="16" fa="G. Jensen, H. Dodd, May 1988.">Climb the finger crack 5m left of Stiff Upper Lip which leads to a small ledge with a tree at about 7m. Continue past this and exit left to a big ledge. Move up to clip a bolt then traverse right to a large flake. Climb the hand-crack above this. Follow the crack system to the top using some pretty skinny wires. Needs a brush.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Stiff Upper Lip" number="" stars="" id="17" fa="S. Scott, M. Edwards, A. Herrington, Aug 1988.">Just left of Blinded by the Beacon is a shallow right-facing vegetated corner. Climb this to a small ledge and continue above to a block-filled easy corner. Move slightly right to clip a bolt and surmount the bulge above it. Climb the corner and flake above to finish.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="Blinded by the Beacon" number="" stars="*" id="18" fa="Roger Parkyn, Jul 1989.">Start by bridging past a sandy cave past the U-bolt. A carrot protects face climbing to a cave at half-height. Clip a second U-bolt and/or the second carrot, and continue above, trending slightly leftwards before stepping right to finish. Belay or rap off the large tree.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="Dredge on an Edge" stars="" id="19" fa="R. Marshall, G. Jenson, May 1988." number="">The start, 5m right of Blinded by the Beacon is almost always wet. Don't be put off as the climbing above is excellent and physical. The most popular method is to stick-clip the first bolt (with fixed hanger) and crank past the wet patch. There are two more hangered bolts above, but wires and friends are also needed. At the top move carefully leftwards to belay at the same tree as for Blinded by the Beacon.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="35m" name="Fear of Flying" number="" stars="*" id="20" fa="D. Fife, A. Adams, E Peacock, Jun 1988.">This route ascends the orange corner on the steep wall above and right of Dredge on an Edge. Named in honour of its spaced protection, this route lacks popularity. Although undeniably scary the gear is adequate so give it a go if you're feeling bold. The climbing itself is excellent and the position stunning. Start 15m right of Dredge on an Edge, climb past a dirty sentry box to a ledge at 6m. Continue up the hand-crack above (the crack is currently bolted -? accidentally?) till it runs out then traverse left 3m to where the corner starts. The crux of the climb (grade 20!) is exiting onto the slab above the dihedral.</climb>  
  <climb id="67" name="Project" stars="" extra="" number="" length="" grade="" fa="bolted by ??">U-Bolts up headwall right of Fear of Flying. Closed.&lt;br/&gt;The bolts on the lower half of this route follow the hand crack of fear of flying and should be removed by the person who placed them.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Broke Bored and Ignored" number="" stars="" id="21" fa="Allan Adams, E. Peacock, P. Cullen, D. Fife, Jul 1988.">Grovel up the gully left of Space Master to belay at a horizontally growing gum tree on the left about 10m off the deck. Climb the crack and face to a small ledge. The brushed path continues to the top.</climb>  
  <text id="61" class="heading3">Space Master Buttress</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="Space Master" number="" stars="" id="22" fa="W.Jensen, G. Jensen, Dec 1988.">After grovelling up the gully the climbing begins by traversing the prominent horizontal rightwards into the middle of the steep orange wall. Small friends and medium sized wires protect the climbing up the thin crack. Move right onto easier ground then up, to reach the base of the arête directly above the thin crack climbed below. Two bolts protect the climbing to the summit. The first of them is clipped blind.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="40m" name="Space Cadet" number="" stars="*" id="23" fa="Gavin Jensen, Dec 1988.">A captivating overhanging arête on the Space Master buttress. Start well to the right by an unpleasant scramble at the base of a large gully. Traverse leftwards to the climb passing one bolt before the arête itself is reached. Follow three bolts up the arête. After the fourth bolt it is possible to escape by traversing left across the horizontal to where Space Master starts. The continuation of the climb is not as hard as the arête below and is highly recommended. Continue a small distance further up then traverse right to clip a bolt below a bulge. Climb the bulge to a sloping ledge then finish up an easy jam crack.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Logarithm" id="24" fa="Doug Fife, May 1988." stars="" number="">This route involves abseiling from above to set up a top-rope - a bit of a chore. Anyway the route follows a brushed dihedral between the finishes of Space Master and Space Cadet, starting from the slopey ledge.</climb>  
  <text id="62" class="heading3">Enola Gay Buttress</text>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="20m" name="Just Too Hip" number="1." stars="" id="25" fa="Evan Peacock, 1992-3.">Crank up the steep arête (2 bolts with fixed hangers) to join Enola Gay at the end of the traverse. Continue up for a few metres then blast out rightwards through the roof (more bolts). Spectacular. The lower part, the arête, makes a good alternative start to Enola Gay (grade 22).</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="40m" name="Enola Gay" number="2." stars="**" id="26" fa="A. Adams, D. Fife (alt), Jun 1988.">The sky rocketing crack line that starts about 8m up - just the left end of mega-overhang.&lt;br/&gt;1. 20m 19. Start under the overhang ascending a tight groove with a single bolt. The traverse leftwards underneath the overhang is scantily protected but quite easy; take care on the suss rock though. The climbing hots up after you move around the arête and power up the overhanging wall, very spectacular and not as hard as it looks. Belay on the ledge beyond the guano. &lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 20. The straight crack (fingers to hands) leads to the summit. It gets pretty steamy towards the top.</climb>  
  <image id="77" src="assagai.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Enola Gay Buttress" legendx="10" legendy="10" height="1473"> 
    <legend> 
      <climb>28</climb>  
      <climb>72</climb>  
      <climb>31</climb>  
      <climb>32</climb> 
    </legend> 
  </image>  
  <climb extra="8Þ" grade="22" length="35m" name="Raptor" number="3." stars="*" id="27" fa="Stefan Eberhard, Mar 1991.">This is the right hand way past the mega-overhang of Enola Gay. &lt;br/&gt;1. 20m 22. Four bolts. Climb the corner under the roof (crux). Continue leftwards then go up the chimney to belay on a ledge. Take some gear for the chimney and the belay (medium sized friends). &lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 21. Climb up the arête, clip the second bolt then traverse left. Pass two more bolts then traverse right to finish.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="30m" name="Gorilla Monsoon" number="4." stars="**" id="28" fa="Stefan Eberhard, 1991. Rebolted 2010.">Climb the best of Raptor and then instead of moving left to finish the first pitch, go R and crank through the roof (the square looking one from below). Spectacular. All U bolts except one carrot just below the roof and one fixed hanger in the roof.</climb>  
  <climb id="72" stars="**" name="Afroboks" length="28m" grade="25" extra="15Þ" fa="Ben Wiessner &amp; Guy Abell, March 2011" number="5.">Start up Gorilla Monsoon, then move right along the ledge to link up with Assagai, then finish up the slab headwall to lower offs. Use long (and extra-long) slings at the traverse to minimise rope drag. A 60m rope just reaches the ground.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="35m" name="Assagai" number="6." stars="*" id="29" fa="Gavin Jensen, Aug 1988. Rebolted 2010.">Classy hard face climbing which is well protected by U bolts. Start the climb from the tree of Leaky Leg bag. Climb the overhang by moving left and using a large hole finishing at the anchors on Gorilla Monsoon.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="35m" name="Leaky Leg Bag" stars="" id="30" fa="Pete Steane, P. Cullen, May 1988." number="7.">Poorly protected but easy climbing leads to a tree at about 10m. Climb the elegant dihedral above the tree. The finish is harder than it looks.</climb>  
  <climb extra="8Þ" grade="23" length="30m" name="Via Ferrata" number="8." stars="**" id="31" fa="Roger Parkyn, Nov 1989. Rebolted 2010.">This route starts by wandering up the face right of Leaky Leg bag. Follow the bolts up the arête right of Leaky Leg bag.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="30m" name="Oodles of Noodles" number="9." stars="*" id="32" fa="Evan Peacock, 1992.">Go up Via Ferrata to the sixth bolt. Instead of going left continue up to the pocky wall right of Via Ferrata. Follow the line of 3 bolts with fixed hangers (the last is hard to clip). The crux is dynoing to a pocket before traversing into Via Ferrata to finish.</climb>  
  <text id="63" class="heading3">Electric Mischief Area</text>  
  <image id="78" src="electric.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Electric Mischief Area" legendx="330" legendy="10" height="781"> 
    <legend> 
      <climb>74</climb>  
      <climb>36</climb>  
      <climb>76</climb> 
    </legend> 
  </image>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="20" length="30m" name="Actus Reus" number="1." stars="" id="33" fa="G. Jensen, H. Dodd, May 1988.">The climb begins 30m right of Leaky Leg bag. Scramble to the ledge at 5m then climb the diagonal finger crack which leads to a ledge. Climb past a bolt to another ledge. From here move up to clip the second (and final) bolt. From this bolt traverse right to the base of a groove which leads to the top.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Biggus Dickus" id="34" fa="Gavin Jensen, May 1988." number="2.">Start near where Actus Reus starts but climb the large overhanging crack.</climb>  
  <climb id="74" name="Masons II" number="3." stars="*" extra="4Þ" length="10m" grade="23" fa="Guy Abell, May 2013">Interesting climbing. Head rightwards up slab on left edge of the Electric Mischief overhang to hanging arête, up arête via a couple of big moves.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="15m" name="The Rock Police" number="4." stars="" id="35" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1992.">Start just left of Electric Mischief. Stick clip the first bolt then ape through the roof, to the same belay as Electric Mischief.</climb>  
  <climb extra="6Þ" grade="21" length="15m" name="Electric Mischief" number="5." stars="*" id="36" fa="Stefan Eberhard, Jun 1992. Rebolted 2011.">Stick clip the bolt. Crank the roof then follow the bolts to a DBB. Nice rock but some awkward moves.</climb>  
  <climb id="76" name="Davey Jones' Locker" length="15m" extra="4Þ" grade="23" fa="Jon Nermut Jul 2011." number="6.">Through the roof 5m right of Electric Mischief. Bouldery moves to the second bolt then fairly cruisey past another 2 bolts to a DBB.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="30m" name="Plumb It" number="" stars="*" id="37" fa="D. Fife, A. Adams, P. Steane, May 1988.">Take the steep grunty start up dark rock about 20m right of Actus Reus. Continue through the attractive grey wall via a finger crack, which leads to a ledge. ClimbGo pastleft a bolt to another ledge. From here move up to clip the second (and final) bolt. From this bolt traverse R to the base of a groove which leadsthen up the face, left of a corner, to the top. Gavin Jensen, May/88.</climb><climb
climb>  
    <climb  extra="Þ" grade="1725" length="30m"
 name="Sticky Business" number="" stars=""    nameid="38" fa="Biggus Dickus">Start near where Actus Reus starts but climb the large overhanging crack. Gavin Jensen, May/88.</climb><climb
        extra="ÞStefan Eberhard, Sep 1993.">Follow those big juicy eye-bolts up the red overhanging wall.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2423" length="30m" name="Pump Dummy" number="15m" namestars="The Rock Police"
        new id="false39" numberfa=""
Doug Fife, Aug 1988.">The start which is quite stars="">Start just L of Electric Mischief. Stick clip the first bolt then ape through the roof, to the same belay as Electric Mischief. Evan Peacock, Oct/92.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="21" length="15m" name="Electric Mischief"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Stick clip the bolt (fixed hanger). Crank the roof then follow three more bolts to the rap chain. Stefan Eberhard, Jun/92.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="30m" name="Plumb It" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Take the steep grunty start up dark rock about 20m right of Actus Reus. Continue through the grey wall via a finger crack, which leads to a ledge. Go L then up the face, L of a corner, to the top. Doug Fife, May/88.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="25" length="30m" name="Sticky Business"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Follow those big juicy eye-bolts up the red overhanging wall. Stefan Eberhard, Sep/93.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="30m" name="Pump Dummy" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">The start which is quite tricky goes up the dihedral 6m R of Plumb It. The best way to protect the start is to lean a log against the cliff and climb up it to place some friends. The corner leads to a ledge at about 5m. Move slightly R and climb the steep wall above, passing a single, hangered, bolt (crux). This is an excellent climb, but is marred by an unclean finish on the final bulge above the crux. Doug Fife, Aug/88.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19/22" length="15m" name="No U-Turns"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Start up an easy corner 10m right of Pump Dummy near a fallen eucalyptus. From the ledge reach R to clip a bolt then follow the overhanging blocky wall past a second bolt. Take some gear for the crack that follows this. The original climb finished via a lichenous L leading ramp. Punters now have the choice of rapping off the U-anchor or continuing through with the direct finish. Al Adams Oct/92. Direct finish Roger Parkyn, Sep/93.</climb><climb
       tricky goes up the corner 6m right of Plumb It. The best way to protect the start is to lean a log against the cliff and climb up it to place some friends. The corner leads to a ledge at about 5m. Move slightly right and climb the steep wall above, passing a single, hangered, bolt (crux). This is an excellent climb but is marred by an unclean finish on the final bulge above the crux.</climb>  
  <climb extra="6Þ" grade="22" length="15m" name="No U-Turns" number="" stars="*" id="40" fa="Al Adams Oct 1992. Direct finish Roger Parkyn Sep 1993. Rebolted 2011.">Good except for the start. Start up a fairly easy chossy black corner 10m right of Pump Dummy, then from the ledge go right and up through steeper ground on jugs. After the fourth bolt avoid the temptation of the ledge on the left and finish directly through the tricky bulge (crux). 6 bolts to DBB (which is out of sight on the slab).</climb>  
  <climb id="75" name="Honour among thieves" stars="**" extra="6P" number="" length="18m" grade="25" fa="H Jackson Aug 2022 (after permission from J Nermut who bolted the line 2011)">Start on yellow wall 2m right of No-U-turns. Highly recommended and a soft touch at the grade if you find the bottom crux not too bad. Pre-clip bolt and launch into the bouldery start (crux), then follow more rings steeply up and left through the sustained hanging corners to rest out right, then exit onto slab via another classic bouldery finale (DBB).</climb>  
  <text id="64" class="heading3">Gratuitous Area</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="15m" name="Rhino Eyes" number="" stars="" id="41" fa="Rolan Eberhard, Aug 1993.">Steamy and sustained climbing up the yellow wall left of Gratuitous Steel Insertion. Three carrot bolts. From the first bolt climb up and into the corner, where the second bolt can be clipped. Some wires and cammers are required at the top. An OK climb, but needs a rebolt.</climb>  
  <climb id="69" name="Crème Fraiche" extra="4Þ" stars="*" length="12m" grade="23" fa="Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries, Feb 2011." number="">The line just left of Gratuitous Steel Insertion. Stick clip the first bolt. The grade depends on how hard you find the boulderly start. Finish at the GSI anchors.</climb>  
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="18" length="12m" name="Gratuitous Steel Insertion" number="" stars="**" id="42" fa="Roger Parkyn, Jul 1990. Rebolted 2010.">Well protected, steep and classy climbing. This climb is deservedly popular (and I'm not biased either). Five U bolts + lower off. Start beside a thin straight gum tree.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2217" length="15m12m" name="RhinoCrag EyesRats" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Steamy and sustained climbing up the yellow wall L of Gratuitous. Three bolts. From the first bolt climb up and into the corner, where the second bolt can be clipped. Some wires and cammers are required at the top. Rolan Eberhard, Aug/93.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="18" length="12m"
        name="Gratuitous Steel Insertion" new="false" number=""
        stars="**">Well protected, steep and classy climbing. This climb is deservedly popular (and I'm not biased either). Five bolts protect the route, you might want to use a wire between bolts 4 and 5. Start beside a thin straight gum tree. Roger Parkyn, Jul/90.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Crag Rats" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Take the overhang just R of Gratuitous Steel Insertion then climb the crack to a large ledge. Vera Wong, Feb/91.</climb><climb
         id="43" fa="Vera Wong, Feb 1991.">Take the overhang just right of Gratuitous Steel Insertion then climb the crack to a large ledge.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Little Creatures" number="" stars="" id="44" fa="Vera Wong, Feb 1991.">Starts a further 10m right of Crag Rats. A hard overhanging start at the bottom is protected by a bolt. A crack then leads to a ledge.</climb>  
  <text id="79" class="heading3">Touchstone Buttress</text>  
  <image id="80" src="touchstonet.jpg" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Touchstone Buttress" legendx="620" legendy="10" height="604"> 
    <legend> 
      <climb>73</climb>  
      <climb>46</climb>  
      <climb>47</climb>  
      <climb>48</climb>  
      <climb>52</climb>  
      <climb>53</climb> 
    </legend> 
  </image>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1917" length="10m15m" name="Little CreaturesTimbertop"
        new id="false45" numberfa=""
Stephen Bunton, Oct      stars1989." number="1.">Starts>Start aup furtherthe 10mloose R of Crag Ratssandy cave. AThe hardcrux overhangingis startpulling atthrough the bottomoverhang isat protectedthe bytop a bolt. A crack then leads to a ledge. Vera Wong, Feb/91.</climb><climb
        extra="of the cave. Finish easily up the cracks above.</climb>  
  <climb id="73" name="One Too Many" length="10m" grade="1721" lengthextra="15m3Þ"
 fa="D. Humphries, J. Nermut, Apr 2011."  namenumber="Timbertop2.">Start up1m theright looseof sandyTimbertop cave.at Thethe cruxclean isface, pullingwhich throughis thejust overhang at the top left of theTouchstone caveButtress. Bouldery Finishmoves easilylead uppast the cracks above. Stephen Bunton, Oct/89bolts to the arete and anchors.</climb><climb
climb>  
  <climb    extra="Þ" grade="2425" length="15m" name="Underhanded" newnumber="false3."
        numberstars="*" id="46"
 fa="Gavin Jensen, W. Jensen, May 1988. Rebolted stars="">Two2010.">U bolts several meters La couple of metres left of Touchstone lead through the overhang and onto the slab above. The crux is. The crux is the rather tricky boulder problem (recently upgraded 2022) through the roof and getting established on the slab and appears contrived as. Apparently it is quite a bit easier than 24 if you either use holds nearon Touchstone. Whichever method you use, it is still a good climb. Gavin Jensen, May/88.</climb><climb
         (contrived), or move left along the overhang 1m to rock onto the slab (recommended). The slab at the top could do with some more traffic and/or cleaning.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Touchstone" number="4." namestars="Touchstone*" newid="false47"
        number=""
        stars="*">A very  fa="D. Fife, P. Steane, P. Cullen, Apr 1988.">A popular route, this climb follows the prominent hand crack a metermetre or two Lleft of the arête of the buttress. It is one of the better protected trad routes with decent rock. An overhang at about 6m slows most people down a bit. Doug Fife, Apr/88 Use lower off on route to the left.</climb><climb
climb>  
    <climb  extra="Þ" grade="22" length="15m" name="This is My Kitchen"
        new number="false5." numberstars="*"
 id="48" fa="Vera Wong, Aug 1992.   stars="Rebolted 2010.">Start in the corner crack then follow the arête. ThreeU bolts andto somea naturallower gear. Vera Wong, Aug/92.off.</climb><climb
climb>  
  <climb    extra="Þ" grade="2118" length="12m"
        name="The Dog Killed the Video Star" newnumber="false6." numberstars="*"
 id="49" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1989.   stars="Rebolted 2010.">This is the smooth looking slab right of the arête Rright of Touchstone. Therewith isU a hardbolts moveto passinga thelower firstoff. bolt,Nice andbalancey themoves secondlead boltleft isto hardthe forarête shortthen peopleup to the clipanchor.</climb> This climb
 is pleasant enough but it displays some characteristics to avoid when placing bolts: protuberant bolts, awkward clips and bolts placed not really where they are needed. Evan Peacock, Oct/89.</climb><climb
        <climb extra="" grade="8" length="13m" name="Mojo's Mistake" number="7." stars="" id="50" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1989.">Go straight up on large holds, starting just left of the big gully/dihedral. No pro.</climb>  
  <text id="65" class="heading3">Melon Dreaming Buttress</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="825" length="13m15m" name="Mojo's Mistake"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Go straight up on large holds, starting just L of the big gully/dihedral. No pro. Evan Peacock, Oct/89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="25Another Bloody Bodum Beaker Broken" number="8." stars="" id="51" fa="Evan Peacock.">This is the original on the overhanging wall. Use the crack to the left of Mentzal (requires natural gear).</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="15m"
        name="AnotherMentzal Bloody Bodum Beaker Brokenas Anything" newstars="false" numberid="52"
 fa="Simon Mentz, 1992. Rebolted    stars2010." number="9.">This>The isleft the original on the overhanging wall. Usehand side of the crackoverhanging face toon thenice Lblack ofrock. MentzalU (requiresbolts naturalto gear).a Evanlower Peacockoff.</climb><climbclimb>  
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="27" length="15m" name="Melon Dreaming"  extranumber="10." stars="**" gradeid="2453" length="15m" name="Mentzal as Anything"
        stars=" ** ">Only a one metre variant on Evan's route but it has created a quite different route. Simon Mentz, 1992.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="28" length="15m" name="Melon Dreaming"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">The right-hand line of bolts on the overhang wall, finishing onto the arête. (Grade 26 with alternative start). Evan Peacock.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="23fa="Evan Peacock. Rebolted 2010.">The right hand line of U bolts on the overhang wall, finishing onto the arête. One of the best lines at the cliff. (Grade 26 with alternative start, which either traverses in from Mentzal as Anything or starts immediately right of the arête).</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="15m" name="Bang Goes the Budgie" number="" stars="" id="54" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1989.">A hard cranky start goes up the overhang at the bottom of the arête on the right of the major overhanging wall. Clip the bolt right of the arête before you get going. Climb to the right side of the arête then continue straight up.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="15m" name="Bang Goes the Budgie"
        new="false" numberFarmer Henry" number="" stars=""
        stars id="55">A hard cranky start goes up the overhang at the bottom of the arête on the R of the major overhanging wall. Clip the bolt R of the arête before you get going. Climb to the R side of the arête then continue straight up. Evan Peacock, Oct 89.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="15m" name="Farmer Henry" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">The next lump of rock R of Budgie. Start up a fist crack and then follow a flake system curving leftwards. Step around the arête to a ledge then continue up to a tree. A bit loose. Hanut Dodd, May/88.</climb><text
        class="text"
        new="false">About 30m or so R fa="H. Dodd, G. Jensen, May 1988.">The next lump of rock right of Budgie. Start up a fist crack and then follow a flake system curving leftwards. Step around the arête to a ledge then continue up to a tree. A bit loose.</climb>  
  <climb id="68" stars="*" name="Southpaw" length="10m" grade="22" fa="Guy Abell, Jan 2011." extra="3Þ " number="">Packs a punch. Start 5m right of Farmer Henry, up the corner and face above to a fun finish. Three U bolts and lower off.</climb>  
  <text id="66" class="heading3">Cold Change Buttress</text>  
  <text class="text" id="56">About 30m right of Farmer Henry is a small isolated buttress.</text><climb
text>  
     <climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m"
 name="Cold Cold Change"     name="Cold Cold Changeid="57" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1994.">Start in the small cave then follow the U's bolts up the face to anchors under a dinner plate roof. Evan Peacock, Sep/94.</climb><climb
climb>  
     <climb extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Sympull" newnumber="false"
        numberstars="" id="58" starsfa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1994.">Around the corner to the Rright of Cold. One U and gear up the groove and over the roof. Evan Peacock, Sep/94.</climb><</climb> 
</guide>