Rocky Cape
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Acknowledgement | by Tony McKenny (based on an original guide by Neale Smith, Nick Williams and Rima Truchanas), originally published in Craglets 6. | ||||||
Introduction | Opportunities for quality climbing are a bit thin on the ground in the Northwest of the State but the Rocky Cape crag is a gem. Located at the western end of the National Park, the orange and white quartzite walls offer a range of climbs in idyllic settings beside the sea. The main crag above Cave Bay has superb quality rock particularly at the north (L) end, hard and glassy, and steep although the rest of the crag is a bit more broken and a little loose in places. Most of the climbs can be climbed in one (at times, long, rope stretching) 50m pitch although many were climbed originally in two pitches or more. Decent from the cliff can be made down the gully just L of Vader, and R of North Cave. Check out it's position - some kind soul has equipped part of it but it can be difficult to locate from the top. A small cairn marks the top of the gully. Another exit is to walk to the southern (R) end of the cliff and walk down the path. There are also some climbs in Burgess Cove although the rock quality here is not so good.
This area is of great spiritual significance to the Tasmanian Aboriginal people, and Aboriginal sites such as the cave and middens are fully protected by law. Please respect the historic and spiritual values they represent by leaving them as you found them. We recommend that climbers avoid the routes round the North Cave area in particular. | ||||||
History | Glen Kowalik was the leading mover and groover back in the early seventies with ascents of Zorro and Shelob Stairs, two quality lines, but the main period of exploration was in the late seventies and early eighties. Local activists from the north west coast including John Richardson, Tony McKenny, Robert (Bird) Hamilton and Bevis (Fred) Dutton were responsible for pioneering a number of the better routes including the excellent Vader and Jamboree, but it was the dynamic duo of a youthful Nic Deka and Neale Smith, backed up by Nick Williams, who pushed up the grades, and the quality, with classics such as Juggernaut, Virgin on the Ridiculous and the desperate Scary Monster. | ||||||
Access | The main climbing areas, about one hour drive west of Burnie, are reached via the C227 (Rocky Cape Road), turning off the A2 about 2.5 km west of the Rocky Cape township. After about 3 km take the first turn R to the Burgess Cove crags, or the second turn R to the Light House (signposted) and the main climbing area. Park at the start of the walking track to North Cave (GPS RCP000).
National Park fees apply and can be purchased from the General Store at Sisters Beach, the Rocky Cape Roadhouse (on the highway as you turn into the park), and Service Tasmania statewide. Camping is prohibited in the Park and there is no fresh-water near the climbs. The nearest camping is at the Rocky Cape township, Peggs Beach just past Port Latta on the way to Stanley (free camping, no water), or Boat Harbour. Toilets are available at Burgess Cove and Mary Ann Cove. Phytophthora, root rot, is a problem in the park so please make sure your boots are clean before and after your visit. |
GPS |
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The walking track can be followed past the Lookout, and down to Cave Bay. The first five climbs are best accessed at low tide.
Scary Monster 15m 23 Located in the back gully behind (round to the L of) the Zorro Wall. At the top of the gully, on the RH gully wall. Overhung finger crack into bottomless groove and then up the bulging headwall moving slightly R to finish on slabs of Ent. Poorly protected and probably unrepeated. Neale Smith, Nic Deka
One Crowded Hour 15m 21 Takes the weakness up the very overhanging wall about 5m R of Scary Monsters. If you're feeling strong, have a go. Nic Deka, Roxanne Wells
2. Seven 12 Follow obvious diagonal chimney to meet with left hand leaning ramp and belay. Move left and follow widish crack to meet with Ent. Robert Hamilton, John Wood
3. End of Works 18 Climb diagonally up a chimney and continue on through the second pitch of Zorro to belay. Pitch 2.Continue on the diagonal line, jamming awkwardly through the roof. Maintain a diagonal line through to the end of cliff. Neale Smith, Nick Williams
4. Jamboree 17 1) Climb leftwards-leaning ramps as for Zorro, to same belay as above. 2) Continue straight up over small roof and into corner above. Move slightly L to exit. John Richardson, Neale Smith
5. Zorro 16 Superb climbing, great position.
1) Climb the low, leftwards trending ramp to where it meets the R leading diagonal. Belay.
2) Move diagonally R (quite awkward) to a belay beneath the roof, below the large patch of guano (look also for rotten slings).
3) Step L and climb roof, continuing up face above. The direct finish climbs through the roofs straight above the belay (17). Glen Kowalik, Phil Robinson
1) Climb the low, leftwards trending ramp to where it meets the R leading diagonal. Belay.
2) Move diagonally R (quite awkward) to a belay beneath the roof, below the large patch of guano (look also for rotten slings).
3) Step L and climb roof, continuing up face above. The direct finish climbs through the roofs straight above the belay (17). Glen Kowalik, Phil Robinson
6. The Nose 15m 23 Climbs the prominent prow a couple of metres to the L of Virgin on the Ridiculous. Nic Deka, Neale Smith
7. Virgin on the Ridiculous 20 Direct start to Zorro.1) Climb slightly overhanging orange face to belay point on second pitch of Zorro. 2) Exit up Zorro or via the direct finish over the roof (17). Neale Smith, Nic Deka, Nick Williams
8. Relapse 18 1) Climb straight up to LH edge of Juggernaut and pass over roof at this point. Continue awkwardly to same belay point as Juggernaut.
2) Finish up either Zorro or Juggernaut. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Mick Ling
2) Finish up either Zorro or Juggernaut. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Mick Ling
9. Juggernaut 50m 18 Superb climbing and solid for the grade. Locate triangular roof RH side Zorro Wall.
1) Climb directly up and turn this to the R to a belay.
2) From belay, up three metres, then traverse R three metres, climb overhanging pink face above. Neale Smith, Nic Deka, Robert Hamilton
1) Climb directly up and turn this to the R to a belay.
2) From belay, up three metres, then traverse R three metres, climb overhanging pink face above. Neale Smith, Nic Deka, Robert Hamilton
10. Tripping the Light Fantastic 18 Locate curving roof on far RH wall. Climb directly up gully to this, and traverse L underneath, continuing across face and finish up in region of third pitch of Zorro. Tony McKenny, Nick Williams
11. Lazy Sunday 12 Climb chimney at RH end of Zorro wall. Finish can be made either up the corner or moving out R up slab. Nick Williams, Neale Smith
1. Rockwork Orange 12 1) Climbs orange overhanging prow 10 metres R of Lazy Sunday to leftwards-leaning chimney. Belay just above chimney to avoid rope drag. 2) Continue on prow 'til top. Nick Williams, Neale Smith
2. Nazgul 11 Just R of Rockwork Orange. Climb leftwards leading diagonal line. This eventually meets up with Rockwork Orange and follows this to top. Robert Hamilton, Graeme Marshall
3. Pink Elephant 12 Locate obvious chimney R of Nazgul. Pink Elephant climbs the face immediately L of chimney. Glen Kowalik
5. Simba 14 After the first three metres of Ate, step right and climb diagonally R under overhang, then straight up face above. Robert Hamilton, John Wood
6. Beeline 14 Up three metres as before, traverse R up ramp approximately 3 metres and cross overhang at this point. Continue straight up face above. Tony McKenny, Fred Dutton
7. Bird's Line 14 Start on ramps to R of Ate. 1) Follow these to a belay under largest part of obvious overhang. 2) Climb through overhang at weakest point and swing airily L. Continue straight up face above. Robert (Bird) Hamilton, Bevis Dutton
8. God Knows 13 1) Climb same ramps as for Birds Line but continue through to their extremity. Continue straight up to a belay just R of a tree-choked gully. 2) Climbs crack in the face above to finish. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Vance Murphy
3. Crescent 13 This is the line left of Sickle. A shallow corner near the top provides the main difficulties of the climb. Basil Rathbone, Ross Mansfield
4. Sickle 12 1) Climb up L edge of North Cave and through small overhand heading L slightly to a belay to avoid rope drag. 2) From belay follow a rightwards line to top. Robert Hamilton, Graeme Marshall.
5. Mystery Tour 14 Climb face to R of cave heading for the apex of cave itself. Step airily across lip of cave onto a slab leading to the L. Follow this slab and then head straight up face above. Nick Williams, Nic Deka
6. Ripping Yarns 14 Climb to apex of cave via Mystery Tour. Instead of heading L climb shallow corner straight above apex. Shane Pinner, Murray Hewitt
7. Anal Interuptus 15 On face R of Cave, climb the two obvious cracks in face, moving slightly L near top. This climb provides some 'quite awkward' moves. Glen Kowalik
8. Doggy Do 13 The climbing is better than the name - well, it has to be, doesn't it. This is the corner immediately R of Anal Interruptus. A few layback moves start the climb. These moves lead to a ledge with a tree. Climb slab immediately above ledge. Bevis Dutton, Robert Hamilton
9. Countdown 11m 7 To the R of Doggy Do, near lowest point of the cliff line before the gully. Climb the spur, heading towards the bulge with the layaway edge (appears to be an off width from the ground). Neale Smith, Nic Deka, S. Ridgeway, R Dowling
10. Rocket Man 11m 8 Just R of Countdown. Start around the corner to the L. Long reaches between jugs. Neale Smith, Nic Deka, S. Ridgeway, R Dowling
Follow base of cliff around past Rocket Man to a large gully (descent gully). Locate the largest slab on the face and find an obvious overhanging crack at the bottom edge. This is Vader.
1. Vader 17 1) Climb crack on awkward jams and pull strenuously into vertical position. A belay can be made on ledge at the top of the crack. 2) Traverse awkwardly R across face to the obvious ramp and climb this to the top. John Richardson, Robert Hamilton.
2. Silent Slab 16 1) Climb the wide slab from which Vader starts, to a point below a shallow corner where the slab runs out. A belay can be made here. 2) Climb corner, strenuous and fairly poor protection to top. Neale Smith, John Richardson
3. Shelob Stairs 13 Start slightly R of bottom of gully up a longer obvious crack line to a belay below a slab which runs R parallel to Silent Slab but on a lower level. 2) Climb slab R to where it finishes and head up prow to top. Mark Chin, Glen Kowalik, Rick Roles
4. Narrow Steps 13 This is a narrow slab below Shelob Stairs and parallel to it. 1) Start up first four metres or so of Shelob Stairs and step R on to narrow slab. Climb this until it finishes and belay. 2) Step across gully and finish up slab out to the R. John Richardson, Neale Smith, Robert Hamilton
5. Sky Walker 21 Locate cracks which lead up steep wall to a point halfway along Narrow Steps. This is a strenuous and technically difficult climb. Finish up Narrow Steps. Nic Deka, Shane Pinner
6. Any Which Way but Loose 16 Takes a line of weakness from half way along Golden Stairs directly to the top. Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.
7. Golden Stairs 12 Climb slab R of Skywalker. As the name suggests the rock is mainly orange in colour. Excellent beginners climb. Graeme Marshall, John Richardson.
8. Crusties 16 Another in-filler, takes a line 10m to R of Golden Stairs, joining it at half height. Tony McKenny and Nick Williams
9. Cornered Dog 18 A little difficult to locate. Right at start of Golden Stairs is another slab which although reasonably wide is very short. About one third of the way up this, a very shallow corner system leads continuously leftwards to a finish just R of the Golden Stairs finish. The climbing is on sloping holds and is quite strenuous. Nic Deka, Robert Hamilton
Girdle Traverse 18 A girdle traverse has been made of the whole cliff from L to R, reversing Tripping the Light Fantastic and taking a mid-line above the caves to finish up Golden Stairs. Tony McKenny, Nick Williams, 1982.
There are two cliffs at Burgess Cove, both impressive on first site but a tad disappointing on close inspection.
Park by the start of the walking track to South Cave, and the crag is directly beside you. The routes are fairly obvious from the topo and need little description. Of them all, the Little Gem's name says it all really.
The Little Gem 11 Best of the bunch. Up the pillar to the L and then step R onto main face. Straight up to top. Tony McKenny and Bevis Dutton.
Continue past the Flagpole Cliff to the severly overhung, orange cliff of South Cave, about two minutes walk. About 20m to the R of this is a similarly overhanging white cliff with a wide ramp as a base about 3 to 4m above the level of the cave. Halfway up the ramp is a nearly horizontal roof with a pile of fallen blocks that created it underneath.The following climb starts at the RH end of the roof.
Burnt 35m 18 A classy climb with a suprising pump! 1) 30m. Climb along the diagonal lines of rock to the nose, high above the cave. From here, continue directly up past some loose rock to the large bushy ledge. 2) 5m. Climb easily up the L corner to top. H. and M. Jackson, Dec. 1992.
Drive to the parking area at the east end (R) of the beach. Walk along coastline east and up to the crag, a couple of hundred metres in all. Again, a bit disappointing as the angle of the slabs is quite low. Still, worth a look. Most of the lines are pretty obvious from the topo.
