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Comments (8)
May 07, 2007
Jon Nermut says:
From Muki Woods: suck it up 20 Not sure if this climb is the same as "A Step Bac...From Muki Woods:
suck it up 20
Not sure if this climb is the same as "A Step Back" but I climbed the big off width corner left of "Tartarus" on 15-01-1996 but feel free to edit this if you want to
1 50m, Climb up left of Tartarus till under the off width corner, climb with some dificulty in sections off width technique nessasary, to the top with a belay at the top of the corner,2 10m, then easy ground to the top.muki woods-Moab bob, alt
May 13, 2007
Jon Nermut says:
Muki Phil Robinson thinks your climb is The Word Was Made Flesh, as A Step Back ...Muki - Phil Robinson thinks your climb is The Word Was Made Flesh, as A Step Back was very vegetated until Phil cleaned and climbed it.
May 13, 2007
Jon Nermut says:
From Justin Otlowski: Dear Editorial Board A much better finish to Tearaway is ...From Justin Otlowski:
Dear Editorial Board
A much better finish to Tearaway is to step right off the right hand end of the great flake and continue up the arete and belay in a beaut little spot straight above the line. The pro is marginal but the climbing is not hard.
I think the description for the second pitch of Improbability Drive should be :
" Climb the hand crack left of the belay ledge and when it ends step right and climb the crack system to the left of the arete to the top with a good rest on the arete half way up."
Space Cowboy is only 18/19 if you make a big step right from the overhang on the arete but if you make a small step and go straight up as David did on the first ascent and Ivan Riley did recently it is more like 21 but I agree that you have to put the easiest path down as the grade.
Great idea having it online and I think it looks really good cant wait for the printed version and a few photos can you put them on the net so I can look at something stimulating at work !
Justin Otlowski
May 13, 2007
Jon Nermut says:
From Owen G: Gday Guys, Guide looks great. Timely release, my copy of the printe...From Owen G:
Gday Guys,
Guide looks great. Timely release, my copy of the printed guide was last seen flying magestically from the top of step tier a couple of months ago!
Anyway, the route description for Ultrahard looks a bit sus.
"Climb up Ultrasound for 2m reach right and clip the first bolt"
I thought Ultrasound starts 10 metres up the column from the Holiday in Cambodia ledge (where Ultrahard starts). I suspect the description should read "Climb up Holiday in Cambodia for 2m reach right and clip the first bolt".?
Of course I could be completely wrong not having done either route. (I eyeballed the new bolts when doing Split Column).
Regards,
Owen Gervasoni
May 13, 2007
Jon Nermut says:
I think Al has fixed this now. Jon.I think Al has fixed this now.
Jon.
Feb 01, 2008
Al Williams says:
Just had a look at the section for rockaway gully and amphitheatre ledge and not...Just had a look at the section for rockaway gully and amphitheatre ledge and noticed that the description for James's Arête is in the amphitheatre ledge section but James Arête is a long way below the amphitheatre ledge. I think the most logical place for it to sit is at the beginning of the rockaway gully section with a note that it is approached from below (as i remember it, the route is directly above and slightly right of shipwreck rock).
Hope this helps.
Al
Feb 01, 2008
Jon Nermut says:
I thought we had fixed that, but obviously not. Should it be the last climb in R...I thought we had fixed that, but obviously not. Should it be the last climb in Rockaway, or after which one?
Feb 03, 2008
Jon Nermut says:
Actually talking to Dave, it was originally in Rockaway, but then we moved out o...Actually talking to Dave, it was originally in Rockaway, but then we moved out of there because its not in rockaway either. We put it next to Exit Entry - which also isn't on Amphitheatre ledge. Maybe it needs a sub heading for the first 3 routes.