Kempton Quoin
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Acknowledgement | by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets. | ||||||
Introduction | This is one of the most impressive of the accessible dolerite cliffs in southern Tasmania. People have dabbled occasionally over the years but even now the cliff is best described as "undeveloped". Because of the undeveloped nature of the cliff this guide is very short compared to the amount of rock there. Matt's searching in the archives found various descriptions of old routes done in the sixties and seventies. Despite walking back and forth along the cliff we couldn't locate any of them. They sound like poxy routes anyway so I haven't bothered to waste your time with them. If you really fancy climbing a loose chossy grade 14 you'll have to select one yourself from all the information the CCT has donated to the library. | ||||||
Access | To get there from Hobart drive to Colebrook (via Richmond and Campania). At Colebrook turn left (westwards) onto Yarlington Road, cross the rail line and continue up the dirt road. Turn left at a fork in the road 9.5km from Colebrook (don't get sucked into taking the turn about 1km before it, where there is a green building in the trees). Drive up for another 1.2km until a yellow steel gate blocks the way. Walk along the road from here. Don't head towards the cliff too early but walk for about 300m to a point where the road goes downhill a bit. Start walking towards the cliff at the point where the road begins to descend. |
32 Penguins 15m 12 Way left of Seventh Day etc (like about 200m) Matt has bolted a wall that forms a low point of the cliff (geographically speaking!). Two routes go up this wall although the right variant (grade 21/22) is pretty contrived. The left version is quite pleasant. Matt Perchard, 1992.
No Tomorrow 25m 17 Start about 5m left of When Spiders Travel and directly below the cleanest piece of face (atop the mounds of rubble from the cleaning job!). Climb up the broken face to the nice face near the top. Straight up this face (crux), with protection in the corner to the left if need be. Matt Perchard, Jun/99.
When Spiders Travel 25m 16 Start at a low-point in the cliff, about 400m right of 32 Penguins and 200m left of Emancipate Yourself, below a large gum tree sitting on a large ledge halfway up the cliff (a small piece of rope may be visible around it). Climb the crack system left of the stronger line. The first move up the corner off the ground is problematic, from where the clean crack leads over a few bulges to the ledge and rap. Volker Jurisch, Nov/93.
The Right Stuff 20m 18 About 50m left of The Smoking Gun take the prominent fist crack in the buttress. Jam the crack, branching left onto the face at the very top. Rolan Eberhard, Aug/95.
Outlaw 25m 17 The right facing corner 10m left of Renegade. A nice hand crack. Rap off the chain or continue up the last few metres to the bushy, slopey "ledge". FA: Unknown.
The Smoking Gun 25m 22 A quality route. Start up the dihedral. Go through the overhang (crux) then continue up the wall above to the rap chain. Roger Parkyn, Jun 93.
Renegade 30m 16 About 10m left of, and 10m up from, Emancipation. Climb the left facing corner system. FA: Unknown.
Emancipate Yourself From Mental Slavery 50m 20 Start 10m left of Seventh Day.
1) 30m 20 Climb the crack, to a ledge and rap anchor. Sustained
2) 15m 17. Traverse 3m right and up a thin corner to a small ledge.
3) Join Seventh Day below the chimney. J.Fantini (pitch one), G.Narkowicz, B.McMahon (pitches two and three).
1) 30m 20 Climb the crack, to a ledge and rap anchor. Sustained
2) 15m 17. Traverse 3m right and up a thin corner to a small ledge.
3) Join Seventh Day below the chimney. J.Fantini (pitch one), G.Narkowicz, B.McMahon (pitches two and three).
Seventh Day 50m 17 1) 15m 17. Climb the hand sized crack to the large ledge (equipped with a rap chain).
2) 35m 17. Another excellent pitch. Take extra helpings of medium to large sized friends.
3) Continues bravely upwards via a chimney to the top of the cliff (or alternatively rap off the chain at the top of pitch two).
FA: Unknown.
2) 35m 17. Another excellent pitch. Take extra helpings of medium to large sized friends.
3) Continues bravely upwards via a chimney to the top of the cliff (or alternatively rap off the chain at the top of pitch two).
FA: Unknown.
Steel Prophylactic 15m 21 4Þ Four bolts up the arête lead to the large ledge shared with the routes on either side. The crux is near the base. Roger Parkyn, 1992.
Mixed Emotions 15m 24 Þ 1) 23 Start from the gully on the right and traverse left onto the face at the first bolt. Follow the bolts to belay as for Steel Prophylactic. Stefan Eberhard, Jun/94.
2) 24 Follow the bolts to the chain at the top of Seventh Day. The climbing is hardest at the bottom; gradually easing as one ascends.
Robyn Cleland, Nov/95.
2) 24 Follow the bolts to the chain at the top of Seventh Day. The climbing is hardest at the bottom; gradually easing as one ascends.
Robyn Cleland, Nov/95.
Mixed Emotions Direct Start 26 The thin direct line to the above. Either clip first BR from gully or use natural pro. Climb thin crack/face/arete and then continue up the original route. Marcel Jackson, Hamish Jackson, Feb/95
Vagabond 25m 22 Climb the overhanging face (bolts with hangers) to a ledge at half height. Exquisite. Continue up the dihedral above, first on bolts then with some natural gear (small to mid-sized friends). Rolan Eberhard, Sep/95.
Toxic Avenger 25m 20 Þ Steep climbing on good holds (the poxy ones are now littered around the base of the cliff!). Three bolts protect the middle section. Step right to the pedestal after the third bolt then continue straight up to the hand crack. The route took a bit of quarrying but the result is worthwhile. Sam Edwards, Aug/95.
Crying Wolfs 35m 20 Start near a big tree which is 30m right of Seventh Day. Climb the twin cracks left of this tree until the left crack ends then continue up the right crack. An overhang (crux) leads to a big ledge. Take the thin crack on the right straight up to a tree then finish up left to another tree (belay). Volker Jurisch, Jan/93.
Dancing Caver 60m 18 Start 5m left of Surprise in a little corner.
1) 18 Up corners and cracks until standing on a pedestal at about 15m. Traverse right 3m and up a short crack and onto the huge ledge.
2) Climb up the block then continue to follow the crack behind the pillar. Three meters from the top of the pillar traverse right around the arête to avoid the chimney. R.Holzer, V.Jurisch, D.Morgan.
1) 18 Up corners and cracks until standing on a pedestal at about 15m. Traverse right 3m and up a short crack and onto the huge ledge.
2) Climb up the block then continue to follow the crack behind the pillar. Three meters from the top of the pillar traverse right around the arête to avoid the chimney. R.Holzer, V.Jurisch, D.Morgan.
Surprise 15m 19 Start near a big tree 50m right of Crying Wolfs.
1) 15m 19. Climb the crack straight over the bulge (crux). Continue up to a small tree.
2) 18. From the tree move up the hand-crack. Climb this for 10m to a ledge then go left and up onto the top of the large block.
3) 19. Traverse out right to the bottom of a corner. Climb this corner until it is possible to finish up Dancing Caver. V.Jurisch, D.Morgan, Jan/93.
1) 15m 19. Climb the crack straight over the bulge (crux). Continue up to a small tree.
2) 18. From the tree move up the hand-crack. Climb this for 10m to a ledge then go left and up onto the top of the large block.
3) 19. Traverse out right to the bottom of a corner. Climb this corner until it is possible to finish up Dancing Caver. V.Jurisch, D.Morgan, Jan/93.
Wild Flowers 15m 13 Bridging and jamming lead to the same ledge and tree as Surprise. Volker Jurisch, Jan/93.
Restless Prince 25m 22 This is the thin line 1.5m left of Princess Nina. Climb on initially very thin gear then traverse out left to the arête at about 5m. Continue up the arête and associated crack just to the right until the overlap is reached. Traverse back right and finish up the crack-line. Volker Jurisch, Nov/93.
Princess Nina 25m 22 The corner 50m right of Wild Flowers. Climb the initial thin face moves to enter the delicate corner. Up this (crux) to the ledge then finish up the hand-crack and corner above. A rap station (static rope) exists at the top of this climb. Volker Jurisch, Nov/93.
King Dean 25m 18 The crack-line 2m right of Princess Nina. Initial technical moves lead to a hand crack, then delicate face moves which in turn lead to the roof. Go straight through the roof to join and finish as for Kaiserdom. Volker Jurisch, Nov/93.
