Ben Lomond
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Acknowledgement | by Matt Perchard, Roger Parkyn & Andrew Bissett (after previous work by Robert McMahon), originally published in Craglets. | ||||||
Introduction | The cliffs of Ben Lomond provide arguably the best climbing in Tasmania. Anyone interested in the finer points of jamming can perfect their skills here, with soaring, unblemished cracks of various widths rising side-by-side. But beware, one of the problems of climbing here is gear related - it is not uncommon that you will require at least four pieces of identical protection, so perfect are the cracks - some are known to require a rack of at least fifteen friends! The other down-side is that some climbers also find some of the climbing a little boring, so unchanging is its nature.
Being near one of Tasmania's premier skiing resorts (if there is such a thing), climbing is only possible during the summer months. For those inclined, winter climbing would certainly provide new problems - don't forget the ice screws! At an elevation of at least 1300m, the crags are very high (by Australian standards). Even in summer weather changes will occur very quickly, so don't forget your warm gear or be prepared to shiver. On warm summers afternoons though, this place is complete bliss. There are few facilities in the park, so bring everything - lunch, clothes and water (for some crags). Don't forget either some tape for your hands or bandages - the choice is yours! The best map of the area is probably the Ben Lomond National Park Map and Notes, available from most camping stores, though it's hardly necessary. The cliffs on Ben Lomond are widely considered to be in a no bolt zone. This is not the opinion of a mere individual, but the current consensus of the Tasmanian climbing community. In the future this situation may change so it should be considered an open topic for discussion (consensus climbing ethics aren't, after all, carved in stone). In the meantime please respect their current natural status; you are unlikely to run out of challenging climbs anyway. | ||||||
Access | Ben Lomond is located about 50km south-east of Launceston. It shouldn't take much more than an hour to be at some of the closer crags, though with walks of up to two hours some are more suitable as weekend epics. Watch out for wildlife in the wee-hours, as the National Park is crawling with it. Anyone stupid enough to climb in the Carr Villa area during winter should note that they do not need to pay the entrance fee; this is for access via Jacobs Ladder to the ski resort. During summer there is no entrance station. |
Strickland's Ladder 65m 10 Behind the parking area at this corner is a short gully between the buttress and a tower on its left. Go up the gully a few metres and climb a 10m corner to gain a platform abutting the face. Get into the alcove above the platform and surmount a bit of an overhang. The remainder of the route is an easy 50m face bearing prolific holds. M. Douglas, I. MacDonald, April 1980.
The next buttress L of the Pavilion. Access as for Pavilion, but keep walking a few hundred metres L towards the next buttress, then up scree to foot of crag. Descend by walking down scree back towards the Pavilion.
Sweet Surrender 50m 15 Bridging L-facing corner up the centre of the cliff. Scramble up to grassy ledge at base to begin. Thoughtful bridging up a mossy crack past some tricky bulges to a semi-hanging belay below clean wall on the R. Second pitch is easy, or else climb FKIADD (a much better idea). FA: McMahon, Maddison.
French Kisses in a Darkened Doorway 20m 19 The intermittent crack system up the middle of the clean wall at the upper R of the crag. Climbed as a second pitch to Sweet Surrender. Awkward start and some tricky, technical moves. FA: Maddison, McMahon.
Directly above Carr Villa is a small but steep little cliff known as Local Loser. It is clearly visible above the Scout Hut, at the top of the scree slope, a short twenty-minutes walk away, and is well worth the effort. The cliff is also pleasantly sunny.
Black Act 30m 18 Follow the groove on the left of the cliff to the ledge below the 30° roof. Power up the leftward leaning crack up through the roof and finish. I.Thomson, R.McMahon, Jan/78.
Local Loser 45m 14 The first route on the cliff. Follow the flakes in the corner left of the overhands. Move out left over dinner-plates under the roof, finishing up the corner leading out right. R.McMahon, B.Easter, Mar/73.
Vitrac 45m 18 On first ascent this was a pretty serious lead - new protection makes it better protected these days. Climb the obvious corner, with some difficult thin sections. R.McMahon, 1973.
Maltese Falcons 23 Climb the overhanging face, mostly on layaways and sloping pockets. Supposedly one of the most technical routes on the mountain. J.Smart, Jul/80.
The most prominent reference feature is the super-dihedral with a fused crack. This is not (yet) a climb. Hidden Secrets starts about 5m left of this.
Hidden Secrets 40m 20 Start at the right end of the large boulder standing out from the base of the cliff. Climb up the corner system, over the bulge, then traverse right. Climb upwards when you get to the famous "creaky hold". Belay on the large ledge. Colin Rees.
Small Change and the Big Time 45m 26 Up face R of the big blank corner, climbing seams. FA Adam Donoghue 2000.
Born Loser 40m 23 Climbs a series of left-facing corners left of Local Winner. The FFA took five 8m screamers from the crux over two attempts before cracking it. G.Narkowitz, Jul 1984.
Local Winner 35m 19 Climb the corner, then break out right onto the face - don't go up the next corner. The face has adequate (although spaced) protection and leads to a prominent undercling. Move slightly right again, then up to finish. G.Narkowitz, R.McMahon, Jul/83.
Lapus Lazuli 45m 17 Begin in the cleft on the right of the cliff and strike out left up the face. Ordinary climbing with a poxy finish; definitely not "the classic of the cliff". McMahon, Thomson, Jan/78.
Spirit of Place 35m 20 Start behind the pinnacle of rock (which is not shown on the topo). Bridge up until you can gain the thin finger crack, then follow the line to the top. G.Narkowicz, Feb/84.
Woffal 35m 14 Climb straight up the cleft. Again, one of those climbs more reminiscent of caving than climbing; this is not what you come to the Ben for. McMahon, Burnett, K.Smith, 1973.
Left of Frew's Flutes is a columnar cliff of immaculate precision which is no more than 60m high, called Bullfighter Buttress. The climbs look much harder on sight than they are in fact.
The crag of Frews Flutes and Robin's Buttress provides the most consistently hard cliff on the mountain and the most regular columnar cliff in the state (Australia?). Varying in height from 30 to 180m it is close to a 1km long. The distinct face on the left is named Robin's Buttress after English climber Robin Thomson who, fresh from Yosemite, pioneered many of the exhausting jam cracks in 1978.
The rock is wholly sympathetic in frictional texture but unrelentingly steep. Note that a high degree of fitness is required, even on the easiest routes.
The climbs on Robin's Buttress are approached by traversing right across the scree from Carr Villa. Stay up high to avoid the bands of scrub (personally I think it's quicker to cross the scrub first to avoid the scree - Ed.). It is approximately twenty minutes walk from Carr Villa to the buttress. On reaching the "saddle" under the big cliff, look up and you'll hopefully see the penis of rock at the base of the cliff proper. This is where the abseil comes down, and where Rajah and the like start.
The climbs on Robin's Buttress are approached by traversing right across the scree from Carr Villa. Stay up high to avoid the bands of scrub (personally I think it's quicker to cross the scrub first to avoid the scree - Ed.). It is approximately twenty minutes walk from Carr Villa to the buttress. On reaching the "saddle" under the big cliff, look up and you'll hopefully see the penis of rock at the base of the cliff proper. This is where the abseil comes down, and where Rajah and the like start.
Rock-a-Bye Baby 45m A route on the left, diminutive edge of the buttress. Some face climbing and a flaring, thrutching chimney. (Alright, I said they were all classics; this is the exception that proves the rule, so read on. - Ed). R.McMahon, H.Smith, 1977.
Rissorgimento Located left of the main difficulties of the cliff. R.McMahon, M.Broadbent, J.Fantini, Jul/80.
Necromancer 90m 19 The second line left of Defender of the Faith. "A real flirtation with death". Destined to be a classic if someone can be bothered abseiling to clean it.
1) 25m 19. Bridge and jam up the flared corner with the black scoops in it. Layback over a small roof, then hand jam to belay on top of the square-cut pillar.
2) 45m. Bridge up the corner to the 1m roof, with small runners for protection.
3) 20m. Turn the roof on the left, then continue up small layaways (the crack blanks out) and face climb 10m to a blank corner. A bit of a death lead (laybacking on a loose flake 7m from your last runner), till the hand-crack and salvation.
G.Narkowitz, Hyland, Feb/84.
1) 25m 19. Bridge and jam up the flared corner with the black scoops in it. Layback over a small roof, then hand jam to belay on top of the square-cut pillar.
2) 45m. Bridge up the corner to the 1m roof, with small runners for protection.
3) 20m. Turn the roof on the left, then continue up small layaways (the crack blanks out) and face climb 10m to a blank corner. A bit of a death lead (laybacking on a loose flake 7m from your last runner), till the hand-crack and salvation.
G.Narkowitz, Hyland, Feb/84.
Black Celebration 22 Start as for Necromancer.
1) 25m. As for Necromancer.
2) 50m 22. Climb straight up the twin crack system. Take lots of #7, #8 & #9 stoppers and ½ and ¾ camalots.
D.Ng, D.Vision.
1) 25m. As for Necromancer.
2) 50m 22. Climb straight up the twin crack system. Take lots of #7, #8 & #9 stoppers and ½ and ¾ camalots.
D.Ng, D.Vision.
Descent from the following routes is possible by traversing across to the gully on the left and down climbing. There used to be a rap station between Rajah and Barbe Di Vendetta but this was removed in 2007, in the interests of keeping Ben Lomond bolt free.
Die Nadal 25m 21 A long and sustained hand crack up the wall 15m left of Defender of the Faith, finishing at its belay. Take lots of #1 and #2 (Camalot) sized cammers. The name is pronounced as per German ie "Dee". Up the chimney for 10m to the ledge on the left. Rest. Rest again. Rest yet again. Follow the crack and go for it. T.Dignan, M.Moorhead.
Defender of the Faith 85m 22 Start 5m left of Rajah.
1) 20m 19. Climb the off-width until it becomes wide enough to get inside and chimney (crux pitch for most climbers; non-crux for masters of off-widths). Place gear high up in Ramadan before starting if you're not feeling brave, though there's gear higher up in the chimney.
2) 35m 21. Climb the line left of Rigaudon. A fantastic long and sustained pitch. Although the route follows a crack, most of the climbing is on face holds. Very well protected; small cams and nuts are useful.
3) 30m 18. To the top.
S.Parsons, R.Staszewski, P.Bigg, Jan/81.
1) 20m 19. Climb the off-width until it becomes wide enough to get inside and chimney (crux pitch for most climbers; non-crux for masters of off-widths). Place gear high up in Ramadan before starting if you're not feeling brave, though there's gear higher up in the chimney.
2) 35m 21. Climb the line left of Rigaudon. A fantastic long and sustained pitch. Although the route follows a crack, most of the climbing is on face holds. Very well protected; small cams and nuts are useful.
3) 30m 18. To the top.
S.Parsons, R.Staszewski, P.Bigg, Jan/81.
Governor of the Realm 10m 22 Climb the thin direct start to Defender of the Faith. Protection in RP's. R.Wells, P.Steane, Feb/94.
Rigaudon 80m 20 Start as for Defender of the Faith. "A line of ferocious purity that would have Comici speechless."
1) 20m 19. As for Defender of the Faith, to the same belay ledge.
2) 50m 20. Jam and bridge up the dihedral above (there is a belay ledge just beyond the 50m mark).
3) 10m 18. To top.
Don't miss the awesome hanging belay! R.McMahon, I.Thomson, C.Larque, Jan/78.
1) 20m 19. As for Defender of the Faith, to the same belay ledge.
2) 50m 20. Jam and bridge up the dihedral above (there is a belay ledge just beyond the 50m mark).
3) 10m 18. To top.
Don't miss the awesome hanging belay! R.McMahon, I.Thomson, C.Larque, Jan/78.
Ramadan 80m 19 A striking line, and again, a good beacon to get bearings off (when you find it). This is Rigaudon's neighbour, the recessed column with a flaring corner. Strenuous and sustained.
1) 45m 19. Start from the same alcove where Defender and Rigaudon start. Climb the finger crack to the right of Defender. The crack gradually widens to near off-width. Exit out right via a flake/crack at about 35m (or continue directly up the crack) and climb up to the second belay of Rajah. This is a long and strenuous pitch.
2) 35m 18. Continue straight up through the (problematic) bulge, the hand/fist crack, before easing as the rock becomes friable towards the top.
Thomson, McMahon, Jan/78.
1) 45m 19. Start from the same alcove where Defender and Rigaudon start. Climb the finger crack to the right of Defender. The crack gradually widens to near off-width. Exit out right via a flake/crack at about 35m (or continue directly up the crack) and climb up to the second belay of Rajah. This is a long and strenuous pitch.
2) 35m 18. Continue straight up through the (problematic) bulge, the hand/fist crack, before easing as the rock becomes friable towards the top.
Thomson, McMahon, Jan/78.
Rajah 80m 18 Each of the three pitches on this route are superb, and together they form one of the loveliest 18's in the state. Start off the 'donga', below the 15m hand crack on the left.
1) 15m 18. Climb the hand crack to the large ledge on the left. Take plenty of 2½ to 3½ friends.
2) 30m 18. The hand crack continues, with one difficult section where it becomes off-width (though you can skimp out to the right), to another great belay ledge atop the Ramadan pinnacle.
3) 40m 18. As for Ramadan.
Lockwood, I.Thomas, Mar/78.
1) 15m 18. Climb the hand crack to the large ledge on the left. Take plenty of 2½ to 3½ friends.
2) 30m 18. The hand crack continues, with one difficult section where it becomes off-width (though you can skimp out to the right), to another great belay ledge atop the Ramadan pinnacle.
3) 40m 18. As for Ramadan.
Lockwood, I.Thomas, Mar/78.
Rajah Eliminate 20m A variant start to Rajah, ascending the technical finger-crack to its right. Originally climbed with two rests, but later cleaned. Karen Sippel, Jan/81.
Rajah Variant Finish 80m At the 45m mark, cross the face of the column (exposed) into Rigaudon and finish up that climb. I.Thomas, B.Maddison.
Poetic License 88m Starts 1m right of Rajah. The first crux pitch of 23m bridges and laybacks the thin crack to a ledge. The second of 45m ascends over blocks, then the short curving crack (right of the nasty chimney/offwidth) to a ledge. Continue up the wide crack to a stance above the block roof. And the final third pitch of 20m bridges up the twin cracks to the top. M.Colyvan, N.Smith, Feb/83.
Roger Casement 20 Climbs straight up the widish crack behind the abseil. Start not far right from Rajah and climb up to the rusty piton. Head on up, finishing up the off-width. Maddison, McMahon, Apr/80.
Dangerman 75m 21 A true classic. The obvious bridging/laybacking problem. Start on the left of the block, about 5m left of Master Blaster.
1) 21. Laybacking, stemming and jamming up the crack systems to a cosy belay perch (level with the bollard on Master Blaster. "The calf workout from hell".
2) 18. Continue up the line.
3) 16. Wander to the top via the line of least pox.
P.Bigg, S.Parsons, R.Staszewski, Jan/81.
1) 21. Laybacking, stemming and jamming up the crack systems to a cosy belay perch (level with the bollard on Master Blaster. "The calf workout from hell".
2) 18. Continue up the line.
3) 16. Wander to the top via the line of least pox.
P.Bigg, S.Parsons, R.Staszewski, Jan/81.
Master Blaster 100m 24 Possibly the most amazing route at the Ben. Again a good climb to get bearings off, with its notable soaring first-pitch crack for 40m, with a resilient small bush at 10m.
1) 40m 24. The straight crack, going from tips lay-backs to a fist crack. The crux is down low. It is possible to rap off a spike/bollard at 25m, where the best part ends.
2) 20. Continue up.
3) 17. Straight-forward to the top.
R.Staszewski, S.Parsons, P.Bigg, Jan/81.
1) 40m 24. The straight crack, going from tips lay-backs to a fist crack. The crux is down low. It is possible to rap off a spike/bollard at 25m, where the best part ends.
2) 20. Continue up.
3) 17. Straight-forward to the top.
R.Staszewski, S.Parsons, P.Bigg, Jan/81.
Aquilla 95m 21 The finger-crack in the corner left of Barbi di Vendetta and right of Master Blaster. The crack is often wet, hence its black appearance on the first pitch. "If Rigaudon would leave Comici speechless, then this would turn him to religion".
1) 25m 21. Steamy stemming up the dihedral. A finger crack provides some security. Belay at the ledge on the right wall (similar to the Barbe Di belay).
2) 25m 20. Continue up the crack to belay behind the detached block. Purists will prefer doing pitches one and two together, thus ensuring that characteristic Ben Lomond full body fuck.
3) 20m 19. Follow the continuation of the crack through the bulge (difficult), then wind your way up to the top
J.Fantini, M.Ling.
1) 25m 21. Steamy stemming up the dihedral. A finger crack provides some security. Belay at the ledge on the right wall (similar to the Barbe Di belay).
2) 25m 20. Continue up the crack to belay behind the detached block. Purists will prefer doing pitches one and two together, thus ensuring that characteristic Ben Lomond full body fuck.
3) 20m 19. Follow the continuation of the crack through the bulge (difficult), then wind your way up to the top
J.Fantini, M.Ling.
Between the corner of Aquilla and the hand crack of Barbe Di Vendetta is a thin crack, which I think has been aided.
Barbe Di Vendetta 75m 18 The most varied route on the buttress and the most sympathetic to the (normal) climber who has an aversion to marathon jamming pitches (originally a half-hearted climb and named Traffic Jam). A good warm-up. Start in a definite hand crack on the left of a column and right of Aquilla.
1) 30m 18. Climb straight up the crack, with superb jams, past three steps.
2) 30m 18. Jam up the corner, through an awkward small roof, then on to belay.
3) 15m 16. Climb up the faces at the top. As usual the quality of the rock deteriorates with height.
Rosebery, Morris, Kennedy, 1977.
1) 30m 18. Climb straight up the crack, with superb jams, past three steps.
2) 30m 18. Jam up the corner, through an awkward small roof, then on to belay.
3) 15m 16. Climb up the faces at the top. As usual the quality of the rock deteriorates with height.
Rosebery, Morris, Kennedy, 1977.
Barbe Di Vendetta Variant 70m 18 On the second pitch, go out right onto the face of the column, instead of continuing up the crack. Lockwood, McMahon, I.Thomas.
Traverse right for another 20m from the base of Barbe Di Vendetta, round a steep 4m wall to the large comfortable ledge at the base of Rigor. This is known as the El Crap Tower.
Rigor 17 Start around the corner from Barbe Di Vendetta. Jam up the crack into the off-width; jam up the offwidth into the chimney; jam up the chimney to the face... up this to a ledge, then return to offwidth dis-technique to the roof. Hokey-pokey right, up the chimney, jam crack. Hokey-pokey right, up the wide crack and on to the top. Follow that? S.Parsons, N.Smith, Dec/80.
Climbers Variant 100m 24 I'm not quite sure where it goes. Pitches of 20, 24, 22 and 15. P.Bigg, R.Staszewski, S.Parsons, Dec/80.
Quietly Unimpressed 100m 23 Again details are sketchy. Pitches of 18, 18, 23 and 14. P.Bigg, R.Staszewski, S.Parsons, Dec/80.
Rondeau 80m 20 A most striking line, and a good climb to get your bearings off. This has to be the best/most obvious looking line. From a distance it appears to be a single spearing crack up the centre of a recessed column 60m high (though it is in fact a triple crack system).
1) 50m 20. Climb straight up the line to a large ledge. Take plenty of gear (especially big stuff but the whole size range will go in). Alternatively use a hanging belay; this will reduce the calf-burn from the continual stemming but isn't really in the spirit of the climb (and may make it feel like an 18).
2) 30m. Keep going up the friable rock near the top.
C.Larque, I.Thomson, B.Kennedy, Jan/78.
1) 50m 20. Climb straight up the line to a large ledge. Take plenty of gear (especially big stuff but the whole size range will go in). Alternatively use a hanging belay; this will reduce the calf-burn from the continual stemming but isn't really in the spirit of the climb (and may make it feel like an 18).
2) 30m. Keep going up the friable rock near the top.
C.Larque, I.Thomson, B.Kennedy, Jan/78.
The King of Kings & The Social Leppers 90m 24 Also known as "King of Heaven".
1) 40m 24. 7m right of Rondeau climb the open corner direct to some good finger-locks and monster rock-overs, to a scary flaky finale.
2) 10m. Scramble up right over blocks to below an open corner.
3) 20m 23. Bridge widely up the twin cracks in the corner with poor protection to a scary finish.
4) 20m. Up easily.
Gerry Narcowicz & Nick Hancock, Feb 2005.
1) 40m 24. 7m right of Rondeau climb the open corner direct to some good finger-locks and monster rock-overs, to a scary flaky finale.
2) 10m. Scramble up right over blocks to below an open corner.
3) 20m 23. Bridge widely up the twin cracks in the corner with poor protection to a scary finish.
4) 20m. Up easily.
Gerry Narcowicz & Nick Hancock, Feb 2005.
Grim Reaper 85m 22 Just around the arête to the right of Rondeau is a line up the face.
1) 20m 22. Climb the groove on the left. After 17m, traverse right at the roof, boldly and with difficulty across two columns to a large ledge.
2) 40m 21. Climb down a meter, then traverse back left. Pull over the roof on finger locks and into an unrelenting crack. Awkward flared jams for 25m finally ease before some 'good' moves to the belay.
3) 20m 17. Move slightly left and ascend the groove on the arete, with the usual loose rock.
A.Collins, G.Narcowicz, R.McMahon, Jan/85.
1) 20m 22. Climb the groove on the left. After 17m, traverse right at the roof, boldly and with difficulty across two columns to a large ledge.
2) 40m 21. Climb down a meter, then traverse back left. Pull over the roof on finger locks and into an unrelenting crack. Awkward flared jams for 25m finally ease before some 'good' moves to the belay.
3) 20m 17. Move slightly left and ascend the groove on the arete, with the usual loose rock.
A.Collins, G.Narcowicz, R.McMahon, Jan/85.
This is the steep ridge-line just right of Rondeau which separates the two dominant buttresses of Robins Buttress and Frews Flutes.
Ass, Gas, or Grass; Nobody Rides For Free The righthand of the parallel lines up the start of the ridge. R. McMahon,H. Mohler, P. Cullen.
Cullen-Mohler Variation 17 The obvious alternative finish to the ridge. P. Cullen, H. Mohler.
There are a couple of routes on the west face of the ridge.
There are a couple of routes on the west face of the ridge.
Francesca 15m 17 The first line along from the ridge is pretty fused. Start at the next on along, jamming your heart out. R.McMahon, B.Cameron, Feb/85.
Luciana 25m 18 Climb the next crack right from Francesca, with jams and layaways. M.Ling, B.Cameron, R.McMahon.
Suddenly Last Summer 60m 19 Start below the notch between the second and third pinnacle right from the low point of the ridge.
1) 25m 19. Bridge up the corner.
2) 35m 18. Layaway up the lefthand crack, until the rock craps out, finishing up the groove. Poor pro. Either climb up left to the ridge, or follow the chimney and drop down the slabs a few meters to an abseil.
R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Jan/85.
1) 25m 19. Bridge up the corner.
2) 35m 18. Layaway up the lefthand crack, until the rock craps out, finishing up the groove. Poor pro. Either climb up left to the ridge, or follow the chimney and drop down the slabs a few meters to an abseil.
R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Jan/85.
The cliff is then broken by a distinct gully separating the main part of Frews Flutes from the Last of the Independents Ridge.
Collins' Climb 45m 19 Next line left of Solidarity. Start up the easy corner, which becomes harder with layback/bridging. Finish up the face. A.Collins, R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Jan/85.
Solidarity 55m 19 Start 10m right of the gully, just right of the cleft at half-height. Climb the chimney past some boulders, then follow the jam crack and three distinct corner systems straight up. M.Ling, G.Narkowicz, R.McMahon, Nov/84.
Zanskar 50m 22 Start 6m right of Solidarity and 6m higher. A great looking line. Start up the crack on the left, with finger locks, and thin jams, continuing up the protruding edge. After the ledge, climb the precarious flake before finishing as for the last corner of Solidarity. G.Narkowicz, M.Ling, R.McMahon, Nov/84.
Gdansk 45m 19 Start just right of Zanskar. Bridge up the recessed column (with a crack on the right), before moving into the chimney (crux) and following this. Jam up to shocking rock and even worse pro. G.Narkowicz, M.Ling, R.McMahon, Nov/84.
Riders on the Storm 52m 19 Start just right of Gdansk, on the ledge. Climb the face and the hard finger crack. Again as the rock goes off so does the pro, until the off-width roof and the final crack to the summit. G.Narkowicz, R.McMahon, Dec/84.
Stick Chick 65m 17 Start down lower than the previous lines and to the right.
1) 35m 17. Follow the easy crack past a ledge and the wide crack.
2) 30m 16. Follow the easy crack and groove.
R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Jan/85.
1) 35m 17. Follow the easy crack past a ledge and the wide crack.
2) 30m 16. Follow the easy crack and groove.
R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Jan/85.
A further 200m right of Robin's Buttress are the cliffs of Frews Flutes. They provide amongst the best climbs on the entire mountain - very steep, very sustained and very, very mind-blowing! They are a bit harder to find though, unless you have a personal guide.
Late for Sky 90m 19 Begins up a short offwidth left of the west facing buttress. The first pitch is predominantly bridging. The second is the crux, which is quite hard and with few positive holds. The third crux pitch is as for 35mm Dream. B. Maddison, R. McMahon, 1977.
35mm Dream 90m 19 On the far left of the main wall, climb the third crack right which should be facing west. The second pitch of face climbing solves a problem that was pending for years, completing Late For Sky begun many years previously. Access from below is hideous - dense scrub and awkward dodgey "scrambling" up blocky terrain. B. Maddison, P. Mills, P. Morris, Jan/79.
Accursed Land 100m 21 Start at the jam crack between 35mm Dream and Powerdive. The grade blandly camouflages the 100m desperate fight against gravity. B. Maddison, J.Smart, Jul/80.
Powerdive Eliminate 75m 22 Instead of moving left on the first pitch, go straight up through the small roof. The crack thins to finger locks and bridging, with the crux up high. Good pro. G.Narkowicz, M.Tierney, Jan/85.
Warsaw '81 100m 22 Thin east facing corner right of 35mm Dream. A bit of a classic. B. Maddison, E. Lees.
This Is The End 22 The next line right of Warsaw '81. Scramble up the first 100m to the cliff proper.
1). Follow the hand crack.
2). Continue up the crack.
3). Crux bridging up the thin corner/face.
4). Scramble on up towards the summit.
R.McMahon, M.Ling.
1). Follow the hand crack.
2). Continue up the crack.
3). Crux bridging up the thin corner/face.
4). Scramble on up towards the summit.
R.McMahon, M.Ling.
Michel De Notre Dame Direct 30m 18 A more direct start of pitches 1 and 2 of This is the End.
1). Climb up right of the corner for 5m, then traverse left into it. Jam up past the ledge, then climb the great crack-line up the face above, laybacking past a couple of roofs, and finishing at the ledge.
2). As for pitch 3 of This is the End.
3). As for pitch 4 of This is the End, or go up the easy gully.
R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Sep/84.
1). Climb up right of the corner for 5m, then traverse left into it. Jam up past the ledge, then climb the great crack-line up the face above, laybacking past a couple of roofs, and finishing at the ledge.
2). As for pitch 3 of This is the End.
3). As for pitch 4 of This is the End, or go up the easy gully.
R.McMahon, G.Narkowicz, Sep/84.
El Shaddai 100m 22 Thin twin crack system up prow of buttress R of 35mm face, directly R of Warsaw 81. Large bush 20m up.
1) 45m 22 Thin finger locking.
2) 15m 18 Handcrack.
3) 40m 18 Twin handcracks for 30m then loose rock for 10m.
Gerry Narkowicz, Alex Wilson, 29/12/2000
1) 45m 22 Thin finger locking.
2) 15m 18 Handcrack.
3) 40m 18 Twin handcracks for 30m then loose rock for 10m.
Gerry Narkowicz, Alex Wilson, 29/12/2000
Gaebolg 120m 21 Left of Rock-a-day Johnny is the ridge taken by Cuchulain and on the left side of this is a prominent, beautifully geometric pillar. Left of this pillar is another one. The climb follows the east facing corner on the left side of this pillar. Pitches one and two are as for Cuchulain. The third is the crux of desperate finger-locks which later ease to hand-jams. The fourth pitch continues up the crack until tottering shards force a retreat. Nevertheless, the climb is regarded as complete. Lockwood, I.Thomas, Mar/78.
Stylistic 150m 22 Climbs the lefthand corner of the bridging problem just to the left of Cuchulain. From Gaebolg go around the column to start. At the top of the crack, traverse right to join the last pitch of Cuchulain. K.Carrigan, S.Parsons, Apr/82.
Abu Nidal 20 Takes in the line immediately left of Cuchulain.
1). Start up the thin knuckle-crack, up past some holes and small roofs.
2). Continue up with caution.
3). Finish as for the last pitch of Cuchulain.
M.Ling, Nov/86.
1). Start up the thin knuckle-crack, up past some holes and small roofs.
2). Continue up with caution.
3). Finish as for the last pitch of Cuchulain.
M.Ling, Nov/86.
Cuchulain 130m 20 (Also known as Cahoulan). Left of the "amphitheatre" is a eastward facing proud corner on the right-hand edge of the main wall. It begins halfway up the cliff, is very square and extends for about 45m. A classic climb.
1) 30m 12. Scramble up.
2) 30m 16. Keep scrambling.
3) 35m 20. Absolutely fantastic jamming up the corner to the top of the column (and a possible rap).
4) 35m 19. Step into the crack (hard) then follow the snaking crack up the easiest possible line of awkward bridging and jamming.
R. McMahon, N. Lockwood, I.Thomas.
1) 30m 12. Scramble up.
2) 30m 16. Keep scrambling.
3) 35m 20. Absolutely fantastic jamming up the corner to the top of the column (and a possible rap).
4) 35m 19. Step into the crack (hard) then follow the snaking crack up the easiest possible line of awkward bridging and jamming.
R. McMahon, N. Lockwood, I.Thomas.
Conchubar 130m 21 Another classic crack. The next corner right of the Cuchulain corner, up the righthand edge of the corner.
1) 30m 12. As for Cuchulain.
2) 30m 16. As for Cuchulain
3) 35m 21. Ascend the corner, through various widths to the top of the column, belaying as for Cuchulain.
4) 35m 19. As for Cuchulain.
R. McMahon, P. Mills, Maddison, I.Thomas, Jan/79.
1) 30m 12. As for Cuchulain.
2) 30m 16. As for Cuchulain
3) 35m 21. Ascend the corner, through various widths to the top of the column, belaying as for Cuchulain.
4) 35m 19. As for Cuchulain.
R. McMahon, P. Mills, Maddison, I.Thomas, Jan/79.
Fantini's Offwidth 45m 22 Climb the "hideous" west-facing offwidth, up past a specially made tube or two (if they haven't fallen out or been removed, that is). J.Fantini, 1980's.
To the right of Conchubar is a great looking amphitheatre high up the main wall with a series of spearing cracks (and some less than vertical toward the bottom). There must be a swag of routes up here, but only one is known about. Descent from these routes is best by walking down the first suitable gully in the Heathcliff direction (about 300m from where you top out) - this is very easy and much quicker than the standard descent gully. You should come down directly in front of the main buttress of The Rocks.
Leandler 170m 21 Thomson's great route up the Rock-a-day Johnny face. Start directly below two small triangular roofs, below the righthand end of the "amphitheatre".
1) 20m 10. Scramble up till 10m below the roofs.
2) 45m 19. Climb the crack, past the roofs.
3) 25m 21. Continue straight up the finger crack above, with tenuous finger-locks. At the top of the finger crack, find the easiest way rightwards. Belay on a large ledge
4) 30m 19. Climb the left facing corner about 3 crack-lines to the right of the previous pitch.
5) 20m 18. As for the last pitch of Rock-a-day Johnny.
R.Thomson, B.Kennedy, Jan/78.
1) 20m 10. Scramble up till 10m below the roofs.
2) 45m 19. Climb the crack, past the roofs.
3) 25m 21. Continue straight up the finger crack above, with tenuous finger-locks. At the top of the finger crack, find the easiest way rightwards. Belay on a large ledge
4) 30m 19. Climb the left facing corner about 3 crack-lines to the right of the previous pitch.
5) 20m 18. As for the last pitch of Rock-a-day Johnny.
R.Thomson, B.Kennedy, Jan/78.
Knockin' on Heaven's Door 170m 19 The baby Steck-Salathé of Tasmania, aka "The Bresnehan-Rollins". This cute little excursion heads straight up the guts of the Laendler Face, linking a series of prominent features. Take some big cams and put on your shuffling shoes. Start about 30m R of Laendler at a NW-facing crack splitting the front of a column.
1) 30m 17. Up the crack (hands then offwidth then squeeze chimney) to ledge. Up wide crack above with chockstones to ledge on L (with big leaning block).
1a) 8m 16. Downclimb L to ledge below the detached pillar. Use fixed wire to protect the second.
2) 32m 17. Chimney, wriggle and squeeze up behind the tower and then bag its summit. Pull onto wall on R (huh?) and up to belay ledge.
3) 22m 16. Up the obvious gash above, which is visible from the moon. Belay off to the L on bushy ledge below wide crack.
4) 28m 19. Up handcrack to bottomless offwidth. Hop into this then cruise on up to the same belay as Laendler/RADJ.
5) 25m 18. As for Rock-a-day Johnny. Up recessed L-facing corner on R to niche, move L and up to ledge, then up short crack on L to block belay.
6) 25m. Scramble to the top.
Descend is best by walking down the first suitable gully in the Heathcliff direction (about 300m from the top of the route) - this is very easy and much quicker than the standard descent gully. You should come down directly in front of the main buttress of The Rocks.
Dean Rollins, Jake Bresnehan (alt.), 18-11-2008.
1) 30m 17. Up the crack (hands then offwidth then squeeze chimney) to ledge. Up wide crack above with chockstones to ledge on L (with big leaning block).
1a) 8m 16. Downclimb L to ledge below the detached pillar. Use fixed wire to protect the second.
2) 32m 17. Chimney, wriggle and squeeze up behind the tower and then bag its summit. Pull onto wall on R (huh?) and up to belay ledge.
3) 22m 16. Up the obvious gash above, which is visible from the moon. Belay off to the L on bushy ledge below wide crack.
4) 28m 19. Up handcrack to bottomless offwidth. Hop into this then cruise on up to the same belay as Laendler/RADJ.
5) 25m 18. As for Rock-a-day Johnny. Up recessed L-facing corner on R to niche, move L and up to ledge, then up short crack on L to block belay.
6) 25m. Scramble to the top.
Descend is best by walking down the first suitable gully in the Heathcliff direction (about 300m from the top of the route) - this is very easy and much quicker than the standard descent gully. You should come down directly in front of the main buttress of The Rocks.
Dean Rollins, Jake Bresnehan (alt.), 18-11-2008.
Rock-a-day Johnny 180m 18 Ascends the ridge on the right of the cliff (ie. the skyline as seen from the car park); a great adventure and considered somewhat of a classic, though why is anyone's guess; huge and varied with a fine crux last pitch bridging and jamming up twin cracks. Apart from the last pitch and a short grade seventeen section on the second pitch, the climb is fairly 'cruisy'. The first route on the Frews Flutes. R. McMahon, R. Frew, Jan/74.
Ancient Empty Street 75m 19 A companion line to Haggis. Another proud line up this modest tower. Start in the cave chimney at the front of the tower.
1) 30m 16. Chimney up until possible to pull onto main wall. Move R past spike and up to belay below R of two cracks.
2) 25m 18. A tricky start guards the textbook hand crack.
3) 20m 19. As for Haggis. Good climbing up the deceptive R-leaning crack to the top.
Descend off to the R: squeeze through gap to mossy ledge. Abseil from ledge to big spike slightly uphill (30m), then from spike to gully floor (25m).
Jake Bresnehan, Dean Rollins (alt.), 19-11-2008.
1) 30m 16. Chimney up until possible to pull onto main wall. Move R past spike and up to belay below R of two cracks.
2) 25m 18. A tricky start guards the textbook hand crack.
3) 20m 19. As for Haggis. Good climbing up the deceptive R-leaning crack to the top.
Descend off to the R: squeeze through gap to mossy ledge. Abseil from ledge to big spike slightly uphill (30m), then from spike to gully floor (25m).
Jake Bresnehan, Dean Rollins (alt.), 19-11-2008.
