Duck Reach
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Acknowledgement | by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets. | ||||||
Access | For access/general details, see the section on the Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side. Drive from town to Corin Street and then walk down to the Power House Museum or walk for 20 minutes upstream from the First Basin to this fantastic area. If you have a look at the map you'll see that there are crags that are marked that are not described in this guide. It's not because there aren't any climbs on them. They could well be fantastic. It's just that I don't know anything about them. So if you feel like a bit of an adventure head on up or check out Gerry's Guide to the South Esk. |
Sinistra 10m 21 On the downstream side is a small roof with a single eye-bolt beneath it. Up this to the crack above. McMahon, Johnson, 1995.
Libido 12m 21 Two bolts up the right hand face to the thin crack. The huge block on the top at the left is loose so watch out! McMahon, Johnson, 1995.
Access - best reached by following the footpad found at the upstream end of the car park down and across gully.
Bouzareah 10m 18 The thin crack round the corner from Break On Through. Up to horizontal break then up the left trending diagonal to join the previous climb. McMahon, Johnson, 1995.
Prison to Praise 20 Start R of Joy of Specs at block. Climb crack, then left to join Joy. Narkowicz 1985.
Short And Sweet 8m 22 Thin crack splitting the face with a rusty old piton buried deep in the crack at about 2/3 height.
Skidrow 20m 18 The crack on the right of Short and Sweet which makes a nice route by continuing up to the main wall and then traversing right 3m on the horizontal break to join the widening crack past the blackberry.
Deathrow 20m 22 Þ Starting around the corner from these routes on a small platform go up the thin twin cracks to the slab and then up to the peapod. Up the crack system above this to 2 eye-bolts and then up to DBB. Parsons, 1980's.
Soho Crack 10m 15 Upstream 40m from the last buttress is a hand crack that goes up to the next tier.The next climbs are on this tier. McMahon 1973.
Two Good Hooters 12m 23 About 7m Left of Dagenham are two climbs with a U-bolt in them. This is the left most. Up past bolts, then tricky mantle to gain flake. Head left around the flake on gear. DBB, Bissett, Tierney, 1997.
Don't Step on the Bananas 12m 23 The climb right of TGH. You can stick clip the bolt, although the first ascensionist didn't. Up to flake, then on to top. DBB. Tierney, Bisset, 1997.
Dagenham Smile 12m 20 Thin crack and face climb 2m left of the off-width crack which runs the whole height of the cliff. McMahon 1996.
The next section of cliff is broken in to four distinct levels. There are many natural lines on this area a lot of which have been climbed, once. Feel free to repeat them but take your secateurs and shovel.
The next buttress upstream with well travelled and more continuous climbs. There is a DBB belay at the top of the next 3 routes.
No Parking 20m 20 Bridge up the chimney formed by this buttress and the bottom tier of the last one and then step right on to the large block. Climb the finger crack to the overlap and then continue up the hand crack above. DBB.
No Standing 20m 23 Þ Various extensions have been added to this climb. As it now stands it starts beneath the eye-bolt and avoiding the large block on the left continues up past three carrots to the arete and thin crack. One of the best climbs at the grade. Ng and Vincent, 1990.
Well Then Bruvvers 20m 17 Start the climb 20m right of No Standing climb to the terrace at one-quarter height and then take the left hand jam crack to the top. DBB. Newell 1972.
Vamp 35m 17 Starts 20m up stream and around the corner from Free Parking. Climb the off hand width crack and corner to the tree. DBB. Then continue up the fist crack and then on to the pillar on top of the cliff.
Orient Express 23m 24 Þ The climb with 4 carrots (which are difficult to clip if you don't have the right genetic predisposition) and a 2 or 2 1/2 friend. Danny Ng, 1989.
The next 2 climbs start by scrambling up 20m upstream of the last climb to the next tier beneath where a "cake slice" of rock has come away.
Parsons Piece 20m 25 Climb the crack beneath the roof, yes there is a genuine roof in Launceston, and then take the left hand crack out past the piton to the thin crack and face above. Parsons, Narkowicz.
The crack going straight through the roof hasn't yet been done yet to my knowledge though it could well have been climbed by a naked Tibetan monk while on an astral journey to Tasmania.
The crack going straight through the roof hasn't yet been done yet to my knowledge though it could well have been climbed by a naked Tibetan monk while on an astral journey to Tasmania.
10m up stream from the last climbs is a large block behind which are two cracks. DBB on top of Fantissimo.
Seize the Day 25m 26/27 8Þ Start by climbing Long Knife and then at the level of the 2nd FH traverse out to the thin crack in the middle of the face. Climb up past another 6 FH to the rap chains. Parsons, 1980's. The direct start with 1 FH has been done at about grade 27 by Al Williams.
To the Crux and Beyond 18m 20 On the front of the block that forms the Long Knife chimney is an off-width. DBB. Lewis, Closs, 1973.
The next two climbs are 40m past the end of the major buttress and are very short even for the vertically challenged.
100m past the last climbs this small buttress is set back 50m from the river but worth the scramble up to it.
A Long Way To The Top 8m 26 The corner right of Possum Run with one FH. Looks like a corner but climbs like an off-width. A great climb to put your gym junkie mates on and watch them burn rubber and finger tips. Narkowicz, 2002.
Back in Black 8m 19 The thin crack line running up the face 5m right of Possum Run. McMahon, Selby, 1996.
Highway to Hell 8m 19 The thin crack around the corner from Back in Black. Narkowicz, Ling, Deka, Smith, McMahon.
Dancing With Maria 10m 18 Climb up on to ledge and then up crack and slightly overhanging corner. McMahon 1983.
County Line 10m 17 Delicate face climbing up a thin crack line in the corner. Quite excellent. Neale Smith 1983.
Jonestown Flood 10m 21 5m on from the Proctologist is a thin crack climb this to a ledge and then up corner to exit out left under small roofs. McMahon 1983.
Between here and Ramona buttress is a lot of broken cliff line most of it pawed by Narkowicz, McMahon and the likes. A lot of the obvious natural lines have been done and quite a few of the bolted ones. Some of them are probably worth repeating. Go and get the Narkowicz Guide To The Cosmos to be fully enlightened.
The Imitation of Christ 24 4Þ Bolted arete directly underneath furthest upstream powerline. Narkowicz 2002.
Access - walk upstream for about 800m from the Duck Reach Cliffs and on the same side. The buttress is visible from Duck Reach suspension bridge as the river bends around to the right.
Louis the King 10m 23 Fine crack and arete climbing on the small buttress facing the river 50m downstream from The Sting.
Mac The Finger 12m 22 Climb the thin twin cracks 4m right of Louis the King for 3m then slightly right before moving back left to the main hand crack.
Temporary Like Achilles 12m 18 10m upstream from Mac The Finger is a black corner with a crack on both sides. Climb either or both of these. McMahon, Ling, Smith, 1980.
Smith and Wesson Blues 12m 19 The left trending flake/undercling that leads to the straight crack above. Colyvan, Smith, 1981.
The Sting 25m 23 An excellent climb and probably Mick Lings most lasting contribution. Across the gully/chimney from the previous climbs is a 25m pillar split by an off-width at the top. Climb from the base of this to the roof and out left to stand on the ledge and clip the fixed hanger. Up a thin crack past an eye-bolt to a horizontal break. Briefly up off-width before escaping out left in diagonal jamb crack. DBB. Mick Ling
The Burning 25m 24 Start up The Sting and clip the first bolt then head right up past 4 carrots. A bit crumbly and contrived. Not one of Danny's best efforts. Same DBB as The Sting. Danny Ng.
Ramona 20m 17 Climb the corner 10m upstream from The Sting and then continue up the hand crack above. DBB.
You can get to this buttress by crossing the river and bashing up the hill from the Duck Reach track just past marker 9. Better is to come in from the Hoo Hoo Hut side of the gorge. On the Duck Reach Road to the Hoo Hoo hut, 1.2 km from the cattle grid, is a sign for the Snake Gully track. Park and follow the track downhill past the horse jumps till you get to a junction with a 4wd track. Turn right, which will take you to the Hoo Hoo hut, the Duck Reach Power station and the Rabbit Trap Buttresses. 40m from the junction, at a slight crest, go left and into the bush. You should pick a cairn fairly soon (for some reason Parks has taken to removing all cairns visible from the track). Follow these along the faint ridge and then down the hill for about 150m. You should emerge either at the top of the buttress or at the bottom of it on the upstream end.
Devil's Grip the Iron Fist 10m 18 The broken hand crack above the cairn on the left of the buttress. Narkowicz, 1985.
The Mob Rules 10m 20 The thin looking corner/crack 1m right of DGTIF. Good climbing. Narkowicz, 1985.
Paranoid 14m 20 The large hand crack on the upstream facing wall right of DY. Climb this to the ledge (grade 16), then finish up Impale me on the Horns of Death. Narkowicz, 1985.
Impale Me on the Horns of Death 14m 19 The great looking twin cracks on the face around the arete and right of Paranoia. Some loose sounding flakes can be disconcerting but worth doing anyway. Up to the ledge, then again on to the top. Narkowicz, 1985.
Attack of the Mad Axeman 6m 18 The crack right of the above climb. Climb this to the top of the boulder. It's pretty short, but you can then climb into the climb described below. Narkowicz, 1985.
A great area with morning sun and afternoon shade so good climbing is possible in summer and winter. Access- see map. To get to the Hoo Hoo Hut drive from the Old Kings bridge at the bottom of the Gorge up Trevallyn Rd./Gorge Rd and follow the signs to Trevallyn State Reserve. Once in the reserve take a left across a cattle grid on to Duck Reach Rd and follow it to the end. Park there and then take the walk to the Duck Reach Power Station. Instead of walking down the stairs to the power station continue along the track and down the hill. Cross a dry (generally) rocky creek bed and continue up the hill on the other side. At the crest of the hill turn 90 right and walk about 80m. This should bring you to the top of the Old Timers Buttresses. All up it's about 15 minutes walk.
If I Were A Border Collie I Could Go For A Girl Like You 9m 19 4m right of Enjo. DeCesare, Kearnes, 2002.
Green Eggs and Ham 8m 18 The large hand crack on the upstream face of the pinnacle. Climbs better than it looks. Fox, Tiz, 2002.
Sam I Am 13m 24 5Þ Start on the bottom tier and climb up to ledge via 2 FH then fire up the pillar past 3 more FH to DBB. Fox, Tiz, 2002.
See Map. Either walk in directly from the 4WD track or walk above the cliffs from the Old Timers Buttresses. The first 4 climbs are set on a slightly separate part of the cliff.
Painful Addiction 7m 19 Þ Up to ledge then past 2 FH on the left most arête of the buttress. Tiz, Kearnes, 2001.
Gerry Does Dallas 8m 24/25 Give yourself the full grade if you place gear as you go. The thin crack 3m right of Painful Addiction. Bissett, Kearnes, 2001.
Sex and Candy 8m 22 3Þ This time the action goes up past 3 FH. 2m right of Gerry Does Dallas. Fox, Kearnes, 2001.
Small Butt, Perfectly Formed 8m 21 Now the truth is out. Boulder up past the single FH 2m right of Sex and Candy to the thin crack above. Kearnes, Tiz, 2001.
Machine Gum Fellatio 10m 17 The left most crack of the buttress. Follow your nose to the top. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001.
Howling at the Moon 12m 25 Þ Up past 3 FH to the crack. At the top move right past another FH to finish at a DBB. Excellent climbing but the 2nd FH can be hard to clip so it is probably better to stick clip it and not bother with the first one at all. Fox, Tiz, 2001.
Pissing in the Rain 11m 22 Þ Up easy flake past 3 FH then to crack above with a FH in the off-width at the top. DBB. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.
Poor Kevin Urinal 10m 23 Þ The blunt arête 5m right of Pissing in the Rain. Up past 4 bolts and a 1.5 cam in the horizontal break. DBB. Fox, Bissett, 2001.
Brompton Oratory 9m 20 On the rightmost end of the cliff. Boulder up to horizontal break. Up thin crack above which gradually widens. Same DBB as PKU. DeCesare, Haas, 2001.
When you look from the top of the Pissing on Trees Buttress towards the river there is a pillar 30m away and slightly down stream. Either rap from the Pissing in the Rain belay down over the vegetation or scramble down over it to the front of this pinnacle for the next climb.
Halcyon Daze 12m 24 6Þ The superb orange corner, up past 4FH to a ledge. Step right up past 2 more FH to a DBB. Fox, Bissett, 2001.
Black Humour 10m 20 Boulder up the left most face of the cliff past a FH then up the crack system above to a DBB. Nice climbing but marred by the fact that it is split into 3 tiers. DBB. Originally done by Narkowicz with-out the bolt or the belay.
Pilgerman 10m 18 Uninspiring looking climbing up the cracks 3m right of Black Humour. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.
Anal Fist Fuck Four 12m 20 Þ Commonly abreviated to AFFF for some reason. How Bob and Gerry missed this on their original sortie to this cliff I don't know so it was named in memory of those times. The awe inspiring off-width with 3 FH. Has a DBB on top but don't pull your rope down from here or it will jam. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.
Pets Prefer Purple 12m 21 5Þ One of the best climbs in the gorge. 5 bolts going up the arête 3m right of AFFF to finish at DBB. DeCesare, Kearnes, 2001.
Road to Moonarie 10m 20 3Þ 8m right of PPP is another arête. Up past 3 bolts and some cams in the horizontal break. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001.
Tulip Variant 10m 20 An excellent variant finish to RTM. At the horizontal break move left to finish up the crack. Tiz, Kearnes, 2001.
Half way between Rabbit Trap Buttress Proper and the Old Timers Buttresses is a small cliff with the next two climbs. Access is by walking along the bottom either from Rabbit Trap or Old Timers.
Chilli Jam 8m 17 Climb the orange corner on (shock, horror) natural gear. Don't worry there is a DBB on top. Fox, DeCesare, 2001.
GBH with a Deadly Possum 9m 17 Þ Up the face 2m right of Chilli Jam past 2 FH and some cams to a DBB. Fox, Nichols, 2001.
If you take the turn off from the 4wd track on the crest of the hill you should find yourself on top of Possumlea which has a DBB on top of it.
Up The Wall With Dennis 8m 19 Climb the face and arete to the right of Over The top With Jim. 3FH and DBB. Rob DeCesare, Dennis Kearnes March 2008.
Over the Top with Jim 8m 21 3Þ 20m upstream from Possumlea is a separate pillar. Climb the left arête of this past 3 eye bolts to a DBB. Fox, Sharman, 2001.
Mr Natural 9m 18 Around the corner from Possumlea is another natural gear route. What is the world coming to! However it does have a DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, 2001
You're Just a Tired Old Man Dad 9m 17 Start with the first move on Mr Natural then move right and up the blunt arete. 1 wire and 2FH, DBB. Dennis Kearnes, Rob DeCesare March 2008.
Shoes, Glue and Almost No Can Do 8m 20 The face on the pillar 3m right of Mr Natural. 2 eye bolts and some cams. Sharman, Fox, 2001.
Not Just a Pretty Face 9m 16 Þ Ain't that the truth. The slabby face with 2 bolts up the pillar 10m right of SGAANCD. DBB. Kearnes, DeCesare, Fox, 2001.
From Hoo Hoo Hut you can go either way along the loop to Deadman's Knob until you come to a rock cairn beside a log on the river side of the track(see map). Either way it is about 800m. Then walk towards the river for about 100m. This will bring you to the top of the cliff. It is also possible to get to the cliff from the Duck Reach power station but the walk up the hill is not recommended. There are some shorter easier climbs on the top section. However all the action starts on the lower cliff. This has some of the hardest climbs in northern Tassie so go and flail yourself. Just beware of the Peregrines around nesting time (Sep-Dec) and that the cliff is south facing so will need a bit of wire brushing after a winter of sloth.
Violation 20m 19 On the upstream side of the isolated pillar is a hand crack, climb this to the top. Maddison, McMahon, 1978.
Born Again 15m 24 The thin crack starting behind a bush 20m upstream from Obi Wan Kenobi. Narkowicz, 1985.
Optometrist 17m 27 4Þ 4 carrot bolts possibly badly placed so check it out before you attempt the onsight. Ng 1990.
Penetration 17m 21 5m upstream from Back Door to Heaven is a corner and crack which looks like it will improve dramatically with a clean. Smart, McMahon, 1982.
Back Door To Heaven 17m 24 7Þ 2m upstream from the off width chimney/corner is a line of 7 carrots some of which are hard to get hangers over. Ng 1991.
Access- see map. Stand in front of the map at the Hoo Hoo Hut and then walk directly south as indicated on the map(actually south-west). With-in 50m 10 minutes all up if you find the right way).
The top tier is 40m back from the river and 50m down the river from the bottom tier. The bottom tier is at the end of the HEC water channel nestled against the willows.
Alternatively you can walk up from Duck Reach power station, past all the other crags not described here, which takes about 45 minutes. The first 4 climbs are on the bottom tier and have a DBB.
The top tier is 40m back from the river and 50m down the river from the bottom tier. The bottom tier is at the end of the HEC water channel nestled against the willows.
Alternatively you can walk up from Duck Reach power station, past all the other crags not described here, which takes about 45 minutes. The first 4 climbs are on the bottom tier and have a DBB.
Dolphins and Whales 10m 24 4Þ The face/corner with 4 carrots. All of which are hard to get hangers over so add a grade if you like hanging around in extremis trying to get bolt plates to fit. Ng 1990.
Dogs, Dust and Diesel 10m 24 3Þ The corner with 3 FH, 2 of which are beside the old pitons. Needs some wires/small cams between the first and second FH. Narkowicz, 1982.
These climbs are on the Mansion On the Hill, which is up to the right of the main Willow Jungle crag.
Missing Josiah 10m 22 4Þ On the separate pillar at the far upstream end of the cliff is a bolted face. Hard start then eases up. 4 FH and a DBB. Narkowicz 2001.
Barbeque Boy 10m 22 4Þ The bolted face L of Night Train (the arete with carrot bolts by Danny Ng). Gymnastic face moves past 4 bolts to join the same anchors as Night Train. Gerry Narkowicz 7/12/04.
Night Train 8m 23 4Þ Start from the ledge 8m left of Those Mornings After Blues climb the blunt arete past 4 carrots. DBB. Ng 1990's.
The next two climbs start in the same corner and look too close to be independent but are actually quite separate.
Going to Horeb 10m 23 3Þ Same start as SC before moving left at the undercling to the arête up past 3 FH. DBB. Narkowicz 2001.
Summer Campaign 10m 18 Up thin crack for 3m to horizontal break before moving right to the hand crack.McMahon 1983.
From the arrowhead rock cairn to Willow Jungle continue straight ahead following the other cairns for 50m 4 good looking sports routes and a few natural gear routes that look O.K
This cliff is reached either by walking across the Trevallyn Dam wall and heading up the hill, or more easily: head towards the Launceston casino, take a right turn into Blackstone Rd, follow this for a few km's, turn right into Panorama Rd and follow this to a T intersection (Bayview Dr.) Turn right, then take the next right at Columbus Dr. Park at the end of this. If you follow Bayview Dr. to its end and look to the right you will see Aclai Del Lei. From the car park on the left is a gate and a track that heads up hill. Follow your nose up the hill and down the other side until you get to a small open grassy area (about 5 min). From here head slightly to your left through the bush for another 100m. This should bring you to the top of the cliff. There is a rap station set back on a boulder above Northern Man. The climbing here is great. On a sunny winters day it's possible to climb in just a shirt. To find your way around first find Wasp Factory (the wall with 3 eye bolts and a DBB) and work from there).
Silicon Chip 15m 20 Blocky start up to FH and corner above then trend right. A bit loose in places. Neale Smith 1983.
Northern Man 19m 20 Twin finger cracks left of Wasp Factory. One FH near the finish; DDB at top. Narkowicz 1982.
Wasp Factory 15m 24 3Þ Tho' I reckon it's a grade harder especially for the onsight or the less than six foot climber. The face 5m right of BIMM, sporting 3 bolts and a DBB. Good, committing climbing. Tierney, Fox, Bissett 1997.
Margin Walker 13m 23 2Þ The arête with 3 bolts across the gully and right of WF. A mid-size cam is handy (but not essential) once you gain the flake. Dangerous fall potenial between first and second BR. Bissett, Fox, Tierney 1997.
