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Avalanche Couloir
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Introduction | Avalanche Couloir is the prominent gully that separates Bulging and University Buttresses. It also offers a route down off the cliffs at the LH end of the Pipes for those climbers who still prefer this archaic method of descent. | ||||||
Access | Approach straight up from the Organ Pipes Track.
Descent: For the climbs around Carpe Diem, bolted rap station (45m). |
Southern Crest 90m 15 Ideal for beginners looking for a taste of mountaineering. This route follows the RH skyline. Starts 10m up the RH side of Avalanche couloir opposite Chancellor. (1) 25m. Take the natural line up the crest of the sub-buttress to a large platform. (2) 12m. Walk to and climb the 5m block at the platform head. Follow a short ridge to a grass ledge below an imposing wall with two parallel cracks. (3) 10m. Climb up the wall using the cracks to a ledge. (4) 17m. Climb the short corner above to a large platform then up the greasy chimney. (5) 26m. Climb the easy crack to a platform, step across the gap to the wall above and climb the double crack. Then follow the Bulging Buttress skyline. M. Douglas, J. Whelan, Dec. 1967.
Breakaway 61m 13 The forerunner of Southern Crest and not as good. Start at the vertical crack in a shallow corner, not far above the first rock step in Avalanche Couloir. (1) 18m. Climb the crack which widens into an easy chimney. Belay on the ledge where the route joins Southern Crest. (2) Continue up pitch (4) of Southern Crest. M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Jun. 1967.
Half way up the Couloir, the gully forks, with the RH fork being the usual access gully. The next climbs are up the dark side of the RH fork.
Celecia 25m 18 Approximately two thirds of the way up Avalanche Couloir on the R, a wall is split by a thin crack widening slightly at the top. Climb the steep crack, with a strenuous finish. A couple of bits have fallen off this one recently (2004) and the grade may be a bit variable! Scramble off to the R. K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Feb. 1981.
The next two climbs are on the Falstaff Pinnacle and appear to cover much of the same ground. Rap in for Two Little Angels, scramble up to the first ledge for Falstaff. You can choose how you get to and from the top, jump as per the Jackson lads or tyrloean as per Garry and Simon...
Falstaff 25m 19M0 ↓ Requires one belayer assisted move. About 20m up from Cecilia and overhanging the gully is the Falstaff pinnacle. The jump to and from its summit is highly recommended by the first ascentionists and is a good (if possibly a very rapid) descent option following the climb. Starts at the ledge a quarter of the way up the pinnacle on the RH side. (1) 22m 19. Climb a short hand/finger crack in the R facing corner until a horizontal break at 8m leads out L to the front of the pinnacle. Climb the front face (crux) to a ledge 3m from top. (2) 3m. To conquer the summit stand on the shoulders of your belayer and don't cheat by taking the easy option around the back. H. Jackson, M. Jackson, Jan. 2000.
Two Little Angels 20m 22 Þ ↓ In their dreams! Rap in and climb up the front face of the Pinnacle to the L of Falstaff, in an awesome position. 4 bolts and natural gear. Tyrolean to Pinnacle to access it, or jump... Gear 00, 0, .5, and 2.5 wild country friends. G. Phillips, S. Young, 6 Mar. 2007.
Rodents Of Unusual Size 20m 16 Awkward and dirty, another Garn special. About 30m further up the RH side of the Couloir from the Falstaff Pinnacle is a good looking hand crack. Climb it if you can. G. Cooper, Phil Jackson, 1989
Torre 8m 25 Þ ↓ The south side of the free standing pinnacle at the top of Avalanche Couloir. Two BR's with some natural gear. DBB. K. Robinson, Apr. 2000
Kwang Hwa Lantern 20m 27 Þ ↓ The face/arête on the L, at the top of Avalanche Couloir. Start on the sloping ledge, at the base of the crack to the R, step L to climb the face then continue up arête. Six fixed hangers and a #2 Camalot to DBB. A. Williams, Apr. 2000.
The next two climbs are near the top of the RH fork of the Couloir on the south side, about opposite Rodents of Unusual Size.
Hot In The Sun 15m 21 A prominent finger crack that widens to hands which splits a buttress, just above and to the L of Protein Pill. S. Scott, P. Steane, and a cast of thousands, 1989.
Descriptions are from bottom to top. Descent for the first several routes is down the rap station on Carpe Diem.
Rebel Without Claws 25m 24 ↓ A top-rope problem because natural pro was considered insufficient. This route takes the difficult line up the orange face, through the roof and up the seam to the ledges, just L of Chancellor Direct Descent as for Carpe Diem. D. Fife, Pete Steane, Dec. 1990.
Chancellor Direct 60m 17 ↓ A photogenic test-piece that attracts the trad-masters. This route starts at the clean RH facing corner near the foot of Avalanche Couloir. (1) 35m (17) Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L and continue up the line to a ledge at the base of a detached pillar (2) 25m (16) Climb up behind the pillar, then up the crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem. I. Lewis, L. Closs, 1972.
Chancellor 60m 16 ↓ Takes the prominent corner line on the north face of the lowest buttress forming the L side of Avalanche Couloir. The original start is in the big broken R facing corner about 6m up Avalanche Couloir on the L, as for Vice Chancellor. (1) 35m (12) Follow the corner for 15m, traverse L and climb two corners to belay on an exposed ledge on the wall. (2) 25m (16) As for Chancellor Direct. The move off the pillar into the crack was originally aided. M. Douglas, T. Terry, March 1967.
Vice Chancellor 60m 11 ↓ The big RH facing corner between Carpe Diem and Chancellor Direct, about 6m up Avalanche Couloir on the L (as for Chancellor Original Start). (1) 15m. Up Chancellor to a stance. (2) 25m. Climb to the base of the long chimney directly above. Gain the chimney via a direct 5m double crack, then continue up to the large chock stone. (3) 20m. Climb out around the chock stone, and up the final corner crack. G. Batten, M. Douglas, R. Mansfield, Feb. 1968.
Carpe Diem 45m 19 ↓ A sustained and satisfying lead. The route on the pillar immediately L of Piping Hot about 15m up the gully from Chancellor Direct. Scramble up to a belay at the base of the pillar. Follow the crack on the LH side of the face until it is possible to move R. Move up and back L to gain a shallow corner. Climb this for several metres before moving R again and climbing a short flake to a good rest. Climb carefully past the huge detached flake and finish up a thin awkward crack to a bushy belay ledge. Rap anchors (50m). N. Deka, N. Smith, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1990.
Piping Hot 30m 20 ↓ The shallow corner immediately R of Carpe Diem that is capped by a roof at 18m. Scramble steeply up, bridge and jam the corner to the roof. Move R under the roof (crux) and continue up broken corners to the top. Alternatively traverse L at the roof and up the awkward crack (grade 18). Traverse round L for the Carpe Diem rap station. D. Bowman, L. McLeod, Feb. 1981. Alt. finish: K. Bischoff, Feb. 1981. FFA RH finish: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Feb. 1981.
Flying Dutchman 62m 12 About 1m L of the arête of Terra Nullis is a wide crack in the wall. (1) 30m. Follow the crack line. (2) 25m. Up the wall to the R for 10m and over scrubby ground to a large rock pinnacle. (3) 7m. Climb either of the two chimneys. M. Tillema, D. Klees, Nov. 1972.
Terra Nullis 30m 21 Þ ↓ Pleasant arête and face climbing on the next conspicuous arête up the Couloir from Carpe Diem. There is a crux near the middle. Nine U-bolts and lower off. R. Parkyn, Feb. 1994.
Reindeer 62m 11 Start about 25m up Avalanche Couloir just R of Terra Nullis at a scrubby chimney veering slightly R. (1) 27m. Straight up the chimney which becomes more difficult where it narrows. Belay a short distance above this. (2) 28m. Up the chimney, veering slightly R after a few metres. Continue up to a large rock pinnacle. (3) 7m. Climb either of two chimneys, 5m apart, above the pinnacle. The L one is Tweedledee and the R one Tweedledum. M. Tillema, R. Tillema, Nov. 1972.
Piledriver 25m 18 The face R of Terra Nullis. Move R up face to gain twin hand cracks which are followed to a belay. S. Scott, A. Herington, 1988.
Non Gradus Anus Rodentum 25m 15 Not worth a rat's arse. Takes the "obvious" corner line just R of Pile Driver. A hand crack, an overhang, a steep corner, with the odd tree, some lichen and a clod or two of grass thrown in, all the makings of a traditional Pipes classic. Tape abseil. T. McKenny, P. Robinson March 2005.
The next two climbs are found near the top of the LH fork in Avalanche Couloir, on the only east-facing buttress. This buttress is obvious from the top of the Falstaff Pinnacle.
Sphygmus 18m 18 The route follows the curving layback flake on the RH side of the buttress. Face moves lead to a thin finger crack and then to a steep layback. Finish via the easy crack system. M. Jackson, Jan. 2000.
