Went to the Tyndalls by myself last weekend to suss out a new route and scoped a line shown in the attached topo. The anchors and double bolt belays are in and the route is cleaned; now just need to go back and bolt it. Grades on topo are estimate only, based on the shunt of the climb that I did. 105m and pitches of probably 26, 24 and 22. The fixed lines are still in place.

 tyndalls new route.pdf

Access: The access described in thesarvo and my new guide is very vague. Without a GPS or compass you will find it difficult, especially if the mist comes down. I have been there before, and I still got lost both on the way there and the way back. Either I am a total dickwit at navigation, or the access notes are not detailed enough. I strongly recommend using the GPS co-ordinates shown in thesarvo. For non-technical savvy old school people like me who don't know how to use a GPS, you will probably get lost. At the top of the hill the track flattens out for 100m or so then starts to descend to the lakes over to the south east. Where the track starts to descend, I suggest setting a compass for east and it takes about 20 mins if you get it right - there is the occasional cairn - the best beta is to look for the peak with the white quartz marking on the shoulder of the mountain which is where the camping cave is. If Adam Donoghue or Garry or any others who have been there can shed any more light on the access, please contribute. If what I have said above is inaccurate, then please correct me.

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2 Comments

  1. Brendon Meulders

    I don't think its you Gerry. We came out of there in September when visibility was down to ~50m and the snow was coming in horizontal - in that weather its a very challenging place to navigate and a GPS (combined with the 1:25 000 map and compass) was a big help.

    I imagine that your kids could probably teach you how to use one without too many dramas.

    It would be advantageous for some one to collect a few more waypoints and make them available (KML or GPX file)

  2. alex lewis

    the way i go: From the top of the hill where the track splits, head left up and over into a grassy saddle or two, then follow a pad through the scrub to a quartz slab with white streaks and a distinct square rock face on it. From here follow grassy saddles to cross the creek just before the cave (essentially a straight line - never taken a bearing but probably what you are talking about Gerry). On the way out head higher (right) than you think and once at the top of the first saddle, you can see the distinct square face a few hundred metres away. head for this, walk round the slab onto a track through the scrub, then follow the open saddle back to the top where the tracks start.

    Seriously, its adventure climbing with off track walking, if people treat it as such and take a map then they will have no problems. I've been there 20+ times and still struggle occasionally, its all part of the Tyndalls attraction.