Besides Gerry's new route on Stacks Bluff (see here ), to kick off the new year here are a couple of new routes on Great Tier. Both require a third pitch but are worthwhile climbing now.
★★ Schizophrenic 45m 21 Þ ↓
Takes a line up the middle of the column left of Blue Meridian. Start a couple of metres right of Doldrums at a short corner with a small overhang.
1. 25m 20 Tricky start through the overhang leads to pleasant and non-sustained face climbing. 8 Bolts to DBB.
2. 20m 21 Strenuous moves up the pillar to the right, then back left to finish on the next ledge. 7 Bolts to DBB.
The third pitch to the top of the column is yet to be completed.
Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries (alt), Jan 2012.
Twist in My Sobriety 40m 17
Takes a steep eliminate line up the buttress between Doldrums and Slow Combustion. Start below the blocky wall to the L of Doldrums, as for the Slow Combustion Direct Start.
1. 32m 17 Climb straight up to the middle of the large roof which is climbed direct (crux). Continue up the steep face above to a large ledge.
2. 8m 16 Neat climbing up the short wall to a second ledge. From here either finish up Slow Combustion, or up the obvious unclimbed third pitch, or traverse rightwards to the rap anchors on Schizophrenic.
T.McKenny, A. Beech, Dec 2011
Here's a rough and ready topo - Twist on the left, Schizophrenic on the right: