Federation Peak
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Simon & Garry go large...
Ben Lomond Guide now availableHeading into Federation Peak at the end of the month to attempt Blade Ridge / NW Face Direct, and was wondering if anyone had done the routes? Specifically, wondering what sort of rack is necessary? Do you need big gear for the roof crack on NW Face Direct? Also, what's the approach down the gully to the base of Blade Ridge like? Is it all scrambling, or are abseils required?
cheers
Cam
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Comments (8)
Nov 03
tony mckenny says:
Hi Cam,Stu Scott and Phil Robinson climbed them a couple of years ago and should...Hi Cam,Stu Scott and Phil Robinson climbed them a couple of years ago and should be able to advise - Phil is in Europe at present but is due back in a couple of weeks. Cheers
Tony McKenny
Nov 03
Cam McKenzie says:
Thanks TonyThanks Tony
Nov 21
Cam McKenzie says:
One week to go. After speaking to Ivan in the gym last night, it appears that go...One week to go. After speaking to Ivan in the gym last night, it appears that going down the Forest Chute is the way to access Blade Ridge, rather than down the gully that you use to access the NW face.
Would still like to get some gear beta if anyone's in the know. Tony do you have an email address for Phil?
cheers
Nov 21
Jon Nermut says:
good luck with the weather!good luck with the weather!
Nov 21
Cam McKenzie says:
Yeah, not looking so good at the moment. I'm positive that it's going to rain un...Yeah, not looking so good at the moment. I'm positive that it's going to rain until next Friday and then be perfect for our trip though.
Nov 21
tony mckenny says:
Hi Cam, Don't think I should put it on the web without his permission... will ph...Hi Cam,
Don't think I should put it on the web without his permission... will phone him, but where/how could he contact you other than on the Forum?
Tony
Nov 21
Cam McKenzie says:
No worries Tony, my email is cameron@unico.com.au. cheersNo worries Tony, my email is cameron@unico.com.au.
cheers
Dec 03
Cam McKenzie says:
Back from the trip. Epic. Didn't manage to get on Blade Ridge due to the weather...Back from the trip. Epic. Didn't manage to get on Blade Ridge due to the weather, but suprisingly we did manage to get on the NW Face Direct on Sunday. We did a couple of new pitches to access Blade ridge which were quite good and looked much nicer than the standard approach. Climbing and rock were all good. Exposure and seriousness of the route were huge. Crux wasn't the nice overhanging hand crack with jugs at the top as expected, but rather a moss filled offwidth filled with chockstones with wet slopers on top. Needless to say, I fell off, the gear luckily held (3 camelot behind a dodgy looking chockstone) and then I proceeded to aid up it in the rain. We topped out after about 8 hours of climbing in the pouring rain. Luckily the afternoon before we'd scoped the way up the climber's gully and worked out the abseil route back down, so we were back in camp an hour after topping out. It snowed a fair bit on Sunday night and we beat a hasty retreat in the rain for the next two days. Epic!
Standard rack of wires and cams from .3 - 4 camelot was fine.
Anyway, I've updated the guide with a bit of further information about access and the route.